Green wood to seasoned?

UKworkshop.co.uk

Help Support UKworkshop.co.uk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

keith1

Member
Joined
28 Mar 2013
Messages
16
Reaction score
0
Location
bridgend, west lothian
I have been given a load of logs, rounds etc, sycamore, beech mainly, this was about seven months ago.
My problem now is, how do I know when it is seasoned and ready for turning also, the best place to store it?
Some, that I kept in my workshop have split, although we have had some very hot weather, others I have stored on end outside.
A couple of goblets that I made and stored in the house have now split at the base although they were fine when they were finished, I have read about different thicknesses etc but thought that as this wood was dry then they would be fine.
I would really like to know how to season wood correctly as this would be invaluable to myself as I do have access to free wood saving quite a bit.
I have read the book Turning Green Wood but, unfortunately not too much on correct manner of seasoning wood.
As usual, any and all advice would be very much appreciated.
Keith
 
an accurate set of scales is a must for turning goblets & the like. Keep weighing the timber until there is no change in the weight.
I rough turn bowl blanks then pack in Primark carrier bags with wet shavings. They dry in a few weeks, but I usually leave them a minimum of 3 months.
Larger logs can take years to dry fully. Some folk cut out the pith and store the logs in the loft. I've dried some timber in the airing cupboard, but prepare for splits if you try that route. I have a fair amount of wood I have cut to remove the pith and waxed the ends. I write the date on the cut lengthwise grain using a sharpie so I know how long they have been there.
 
keith1":3amoelp0 said:
A couple of goblets that I made and stored in the house have now split at the base although they were fine when they were finished, I have read about different thicknesses etc but thought that as this wood was dry then they would be fine.

Constant thickness is essential to help prevent cracking. With a constant thickness you don't get differential drying, which causes a build up of stresses leading to the cracking.

Re-seasoning - I wouldn't bother seasoning. Turn it as it comes and deal with the movement. Take TD's approach above and when the bowl has 'dryed' remount it and turn it round again. This is why you should leave the wall thickness at 10% of the bowl dia. on the first turn.

If the tenon is out of round - first reverse mount the bowl and turn the tenon round so that the chuck has a full grip.

Brian
 
Good tip about the tenon Finney none of the videos I have watched even mention that it might be warped too.
 
Back
Top