Grain direction for turning

[Grahamshed]

Now that I have a lathe almost ready to use I am beginning to look around for suitable wood. I am wondering about grain direction and whether their are rules about it. For instance, if I wanted to make a goblet then a fairly narrow branch might do the trick and i would be hollowing out end grain. If I wanted to make a bowl you would think a simple bit of trunk would do but in this case hollowing out end grain would not be good.
So what do you use for what, and why ?

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

Ah Graham...you're on the tip of the roller coaster now

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

Its all about strength. With a long grain, spindle, between centres like your goblet you're typically cutting beads and cove type details so think table lamp, stair spindle, candle stick because the piece is narrow generally so the grain runs through its length.

With face grain work the grain is perpendicular to the lathe axis. Hollowing face and end grain are two completely different techniques. I would suggest your first project is not a goblet, rather a candle stick or a bottle stopper, garden dibber. Just get used to the tools and the lathe as your first priority. You're going to get dings and catches and bruises galore....explore that first and when you have a basic grounding then make something more complex like a goblet.

 

[Dalboy]

Now that I have a lathe almost ready to use I am beginning to look around for suitable wood. I am wondering about grain direction and whether their are rules about it. For instance, if I wanted to make a goblet then a fairly narrow branch might do the trick and i would be hollowing out end grain. If I wanted to make a bowl you would think a simple bit of trunk would do but in this case hollowing out end grain would not be good.
So what do you use for what, and why ?

That is the general thinking but woodturning is not always that simple.
Basically as you stated goblets are made in spindle mode and bowls cross grain, where as hollow forms can be either also depending on how you want the grain to look in the end piece
Send me a PM with your e mail and I will send a PDF about grain patterns you can get out of a tree when turning

 

[KimG]

Yes I would say similar to Dalboy, it's more about what you will get appearance wise than any hard an fast rules, although for spindle work pretty much you are going to have the grain running the length for strength, but bowls and forms can be pretty much however it mounts, or however you want it to look if it has a strong grain pattern.

 

[Spindle]

Hi

In general long / tall items are spindle turned, (grain parallel to the bed), and squat items faceplate turned, (grain perpendicular to the bed), - this is only a generalisation and there are many occasions where the contrary applies.

Once you have mounted the work you need to ensure you cut with the grain and not against it wherever possible - for a basic bowl this means hollowing from the periphery towards the centre and shaping the outside from the centre towards the periphery. In spindle turning the adage is to always turn downhill, (towards the axis), and therefore when hollowing cut from the centre towards the periphery.

Have fun, approach the work with the tool slowly and steadily, grip the tool firmly but no white knuckles needed, ensure the tool is well supported with the cutting edge as close as possible to the rest, make bevel contact before adjusting the tool to bring on the cut - using these 'mantras', courtesy of Keith Rowley, I've never had a tool wrenched from my grip or suffered a bruise

Regards Mick

Edited to correct spindle hollowing

 

[CHJ]

...I am wondering about grain direction and whether their are rules about it. ........So what do you use for what, and why ?

If you Have a look at these images by Tod Hoyer you should be able to work out what best suits the item you want to turn. (PDF)

But basically if you are turning something with a narrow profile like a goblet you need the grain to run along the length, if turned across the grain then it would have no strength and snap off easily.

 

[Dalboy]

...I am wondering about grain direction and whether their are rules about it. ........So what do you use for what, and why ?

If you Have a look at these images by Tod Hoyer you should be able to work out what best suits the item you want to turn. (PDF)

That the PDF I just could not remember where I saw it and only have a copy on my computer. Thanks CHJ

Found this which may explain the best way to cut the grain http://youtu.be/qnym1IyOPgE

 

[Grahamshed]

...I am wondering about grain direction and whether their are rules about it. ........So what do you use for what, and why ?

If you Have a look at these images by Tod Hoyer you should be able to work out what best suits the item you want to turn. (PDF)

But basically if you are turning something with a narrow profile like a goblet you need the grain to run along the length, if turned across the grain then it would have no strength and snap off easily.

Thanks for that Chas ( and Dalboy) The diagrams are very informative and I have bookmarked it.

 

[Tazmaniandevil]

Honey dippers are a great starter for 10, in Bamber Gascoigne parlance.
You get great practice at different shapes and have produced something you can give away to friends & family. I went through a bing of soft pine to begin with. The Keith Rowley book says somewhere if you can get a decent finish with pine you should be able to manage almost any timber. It's also dirt cheap, so no foul if you make terrible mistakes.
I got some scaffold boards too, from a local contractor, and cut them into squares to practice face-plate turning. Again, no problem to chuck them away - even though I still have a loose change bowl in the bedroom from my early attempts.
Every day is a school day for me where turning is concerned. The important thing is to enjoy learning and not get downhearted when mistakes happen.

 

[Grahamshed]

Oh i am going to enjoy it alright Taz. I have been looking forward to this for years.