Gorilla glue

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barkwindjammer

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Used this product for the first time earlier 'F'in messy stuff it is too-but hey you gotta learn :oops:

I read the instructions on bottle "lightly dampen one side to be glued with water-apply a THIN layer to the surface of the other piece" etc etc

so I ran a thin bead of glue along an 18mm edge of pine and used a lolly stick to spread it (like they do on the telly),
15 mins later and it looks like an apprentices first 'go' with expanding foam :shock: , I knew this stuff would foam but Jeez.

so lessons learned today, use a microscopicaly thin layer of Gorilla glue, read labels properly cos I didn't have any 'paint thinners' to clean the brush I used to get the glue into biscuit slots, my hands, the kitchen lino, the dogs nose etc etc and put plastic sheet down *before* doing any glue up with this stuff :(
 
Just plain don't use it. Great if your making doors that are going to be painted. I used it on walnut, it foam out made such a mess. Took me longer to clean up the item than it did in the first place. And then once it was all clean I stained the item with oil and it showed up all the areas where the gorilla glue had touched it. I see the piece everyday as its a bedside lamp and am always reminded to never use Gorilla glue for nice furniture.
 
Dont get it on your hands either or you'll be going about for a few days with black marks all over them looking like you dont wash at all! :p

Has anyone discovered a quick way (short of using acid) to actually removes stains from your hands?
 
CroppyBoy1798":o1av5ira said:
Has anyone discovered a quick way (short of using acid) to actually removes stains from your hands?

Nope, I haven't found anything (petrol doesn't even do it) you just have to let it wear off, and it takes days.
 
CroppyBoy1798":36qc2tww said:
Dont get it on your hands either or you'll be going about for a few days with black marks all over them looking like you dont wash at all! :p

Has anyone discovered a quick way (short of using acid) to actually removes stains from your hands?

Cellulose paint thinners gets it straight off

can get it from car paint suppliers . I use JAWEL, they have branches in quite a few places
 
Tusses":2ejobd3s said:
CroppyBoy1798":2ejobd3s said:
Dont get it on your hands either or you'll be going about for a few days with black marks all over them looking like you dont wash at all! :p

Has anyone discovered a quick way (short of using acid) to actually removes stains from your hands?

Cellulose paint thinners gets it straight off

can get it from car paint suppliers . I use JAWEL, they have branches in quite a few places

probably best not applied to the dogs nose, however.
 
Tusses":2m4miyve said:
Cellulose paint thinners gets it straight off

If I had known that I wouldn't have looked like I had anti-intruder paint on my hands from trying to break in to someones house #-o !!!
 
off topic slightly, but a good way to clean up grubby hands is with a dollop of fairy liquid and a tea spoon of sugar, rub it all over then rinse obviously (homer) . that will shift most things

adidat
 
kirkpoore1":1m6oej7h said:
Fine Woodworking did a comparison of various glues about 2-3 years ago. Gorilla glue scored pretty poorly.

Kirk


Yes, it was outperformed by waterproof PVA, even on sloppy fit joints. The one advantage I find with it and other PU glues, is that the expanding action does fill any odd cracks, crevices around pegs when using drawbores etc. to help keep out moisture on outdoor jobs.
 
Plain old bar of soap and a pumice stone under running warm water shifts it, I've been using it for 15 odd years. I've found the wurth one the best for me, I use the 5/10 min for all panels. I don't wet one side, the moisture present in the timber is enough to cure it.
 
I've been using this for a bit and don't have any problems with it. I just pay attention the the instructions and go. Only thing I've done is to start buying the small bottles as its difficult to stop it curing in the nozzle and I don't use it quickly enough.

That said I love PVA and cascamite too, depends on what I doing.
 
jimi43":9oo8dgc5 said:
Apparently successful marketing...absolutely the worst glue I have ever had the misfortune to use.

Jim

it has it's moments - but I agree they are few and far between!

one occurred today when the handle on my billhook gave up - turned another and said glue was excellent as a combination filler, glue etc for a rusty, uneven tang.

I have to look for such applications as I won't use it for wood to wood joints anymore!
 
The last couple of bottles of PU glue I've bought have been a complete waste of time as after a couple of times used, the top replaced carefully, the bottle has gone solid within a week or so of use! Plus, if the joint is not a good fit, no play, then it has been about as good as using bluetac. It isn't even heavy enough to use as a door stop!

I'll stick with water resisistant PVA thank you..
 
barkwindjammer":c9bvlno5 said:
kirkpoore1":c9bvlno5 said:
Fine Woodworking did a comparison of various glues about 2-3 years ago. Gorilla glue scored pretty poorly.

Kirk

so what glue/s scored better ?

You would ask that question a week after I boxed up my magazines and stuck them in the basement, wouldn't you?:) Fortunately, it was near the top of a box and only took 5 minutes to find it--the August 2007 issue.

FWW's test involved 6 types of glue, used to glue up a mortise & tenon joint that was open on one side (essentially a saddle joint). The amount of force needed to break the joint was measured. They used three species of wood (maple, oak, and ipe), with three joint fits (tight, snug, and loose). The strongest glue overall was waterproof PVA (Titebond III). Next strongest was slow set epoxy, with 99% of the average strength of Titebond III. After that was regular PVA glue (95%), then liquid hide glue (79%), hot hide glue (76%), and finally polyurethane glue (Gorilla Glue), which had only 58% of the strength of Titebond III.

Gorilla Glue is probably strong enough for most stuff. However, since it makes such a mess, and goes hard in the bottle soon after opening, I frankly don't see much use in the stuff, and only bought one bottle.

Kirk
 
I could have told you it would have been Titebond without even looking! :mrgreen: :mrgreen:

Superb stuff! But thanks for the confirmation. In tests that I have done with mahogany to test for scarf joint integrity, the mahogany broke on every occasion before the glue joint parted.

Best thing to come out of the USA ever IMHO!

FWIW...Titebond Original is supposed to be stronger in their tests but it ain't waterproof...the only downside I can see.

Jim
 
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