Gluing up panels

[Zeddedhed]

After a ridiculously long absence from these erstwhile forums (due in part to a s***ty start to the year, followed by a long period of hard-core indulgence in my other passion - fishing) I'm back. Apologies that my first post on returning is a question but there you have it.

I have a bit of a dilemma with a job currently on the bench.

I'm making up some external doors with a pair of raised and fielded panels at the base with a glazed upper half.

Due to a cock up with the timber order I've been given 30mm boards for the panels instead of 44mm. In order to expedite the job I was wondering if it would extremely naughty/bad practice/selling my client short if I were to bond the 30mm boards together in pairs to create 60mm boards and then plane these down evenly on both faces and finally to edge join them to create my panels which would then be run over the spindle moulder to create the raised and fielded detail.

I could of course just order some more 44mm boards and suck up the cost (and if this is the right thing to do then I will) but I guess I'm keen to hear the opinion of any of you commercial joiners out there.

I'm aware that a lot of mass produced doors are made up of laminated boards, but do you think this is acceptable in my case?

 

[Tasky]

Speaking from a general customer servicey perspective - Who cocked up the order?
If it was the timber supplier, as it sounds, then you ought to be able to return the 30mm and get the correct 44mm you asked for sent out... perhaps even by courier, if it's an urgent job and you risk losing money because of their mistake.

If it's your fault, then it's down to whether your craftsmanship is good enough for the work and whether the client is happy for you to do this. If it's a no on either count, you'll have to suck it up. You should probably tell the client, either way, to cover yourself in the event of a workmanship-warranty issue.

 

[profchris]

I'd have thought laminated boards would be more stable = less risk of cupping etc. And the appearance would be identical, unless the join were visible in the moulding. So, better product for the same money, from the client's perspective.

 

[deema]

Lucky client would be my view. As stated laminated boards will be far more stable. If you have the inclination you canake them far stronger and even less likely to cup / twist than solid if you glue up as a panel one set and then laminate to the thickness by laying the layer as brick work. Hope that makes sense! It achieved a panel with no seems directly through the panel

 

[RobinBHM]

Ive done that before, as Deema says bond up 2 panels and glue them back to back, with glues lines offset.

We now make our panels in tricoya mdf rather than timber, bonding up 18+18+9 to make a 45mm thick panel. The fielding doesnt go through the 18mm so no exposed lamination. (only good for painted jobs of course!).

Good to see you back on the forum Zeddedhed

 

[ColeyS1]

Ive done that before, as Deema says bond up 2 panels and glue them back to back, with glues lines offset.

We now make our panels in tricoya mdf rather than timber, bonding up 18+18+9 to make a 45mm thick panel. The fielding doesnt go through the 18mm so no exposed lamination. (only good for painted jobs of course!).

Good to see you back on the forum Zeddedhed

What glue would you use for that? I laminated some up for my shed stable door and used normal pva. Seems good so far.

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

 

[deema]

Cascamite or one of the derivatives. Long open time, waterproof, and no creep.

 

[ColeyS1]

Cascamite or one of the derivatives. Long open time, waterproof, and no creep.

On Tricoya ?

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

 

[AJB Temple]

Good to see you back Z.

 

[RobinBHM]

We use PU glue on tricoya.

We keep both rapid and standard options. Now the guys are used to PU, they use it for all joinery. Rapid sets quite quickly, so sashes and doors can be worked on after an hour or so.

PU, although messy, is easy to clean off as long as it chiselled off when its no longer sticky, but before its fully cured and really hard.

 

[custard]

I know zip about joinery so I'll keep my mouth shut, just to say it's good to hear from Mr Zeddedhead again!

 

[Zeddedhed]

Thanks for the responses everyone.

In the end I called the client, explained the cock-up (timber merchant admitted it was him and refunded me for the boards and said I may as well keep the 30mm) and told them there would be a two day delay.

The client was OK with this so it's going to be 44mm solid panels. I felt that as I was being refunded there was no need for me to try and make it work with the 30mm.

To be honest I wasn't 100% confident I could get the neccessary even pressure across the boards to laminate them up satisfactorily.