Glazing accoya door

[Doug71]

I have to glaze an Accoya door I made. It's single glazed, 9 panes in the top each about 350 mm high x 225 mm wide, rebates about 15 mm x 6 mm.

Normally I would use putty, bed the rebate, push glass in, pin with small pins, putty up front and point off.

Just thinking the small pins I have are zinc plated, all the stainless/brass ones I have are bigger. Do you think zinc plated will be okay?

I have some of that putty in a tube stuff but never used it yet, could I use that instead of putty behind glass, don't know if it would stick it in a bit?

I know some people don't even pin panes in this size, they just rely on putty as the pins are often where the putty fails first?

Probably overthinking this as usual but any opinions appreciated.

Doug

 

[Steve Maskery]

I was just about to post this as a new thread, but it may as well go here, as it is relevant.
I'm helping my bro to make a new door. He came over on Monday and we finished dimensioning all the stock. We packed up, but some accoya was left lying on the TS. Yesterday I went into the workshop, restacked the accoya and was met with this:

That is just 18 hours of contact and it is not even damp in there. I've cleaned it up, of course, but the top is still stained.

So I would say certainly don't use ordinary panel pins. Not sure about galvanised (I do have some sheradised ones), but I think we shall try to find stainless steel ones, just to be on the safe side.

Does anyone know if they are available?

As far as sealant goes, I've always used glazing silicone and never had a problem. Just make sure you get squeeze-out, especially on the bottom bead, so that water doesn't get trapped. The accoya probably wont mind, but if you were using DG units (I know you are not, in this instance), it might shorten the life of them.

 

[HOJ]

I buy my SS pins from here: Stainless steel pins

 

[Trevanion]

That is just 18 hours of contact and it is not even damp in there. I've cleaned it up, of course, but the top is still stained.

I've never had it happen that quickly, mind you my tables are usually pretty well topped up with wax and silicone. What are your first thoughts about the Accoya?

I know some people don't even pin panes in this size, they just rely on putty as the pins are often where the putty fails first?

You'll probably get away without using pins on panes that size, just leave the door flat for a while after puttying them. I think the main reason that pins make putty fail is that they rust which tends to expand the many years dry putty into cracking, stainless pins might not have that problem but we'd have to wait 50 years to see :roll:

 

[Steve Maskery]

What are your first thoughts about the Accoya?

Hmm. Good q.
Big boards (62 and 80mm thick, 4.2m long, 210mm wide, wouldn't want to be handling them alone), pretty straight. I wish my little Kity had longer beds. Everything we planed was bowed and needed fettling with a jack plane. Some tearout where the grain is unfriendly, but nothing to worry about.
The dust in the face is horrible. If there is a Next Time, I shall use my AirCap thingy rather than just safety specs.
I'm astonished by how aggressive it is on cast iron.
That's it, so far. There will be a bit of a hiatus for a week or two, other priorities.

 

[G S Haydon]

I would bed into finished coated rebates with silicone, or no pins at all and bed in putty and give it some time to set.

 

[Doug71]

In the end I used some of this putty in a tube stuff to fix the glass in the rebate and pointed the front with normal putty, worked really well, will do it this way in future instead of messing about with pins.

https://www.reddiseals.com/product/timbaglaze-putty/

I know a lot of people use silicone instead for this but I don't like using it in this situation. You only need to get the slightest bit on your finger and then transfer it on to the face of window/door you are glazing and suddenly you have created a problem which you only see when you start painting. That's my experience anyway, maybe I'm just messy :roll: