Garage doors?

[mailee]

Can anyone help? I am to build two large garage doors and wonder what hinges I should use to make sure it is secure? With my gates I use the hook on band hinges but they can be unscrewed from outside. the doors are large around 7' high and 4' wide each and will be made with a frame with T&G insets. Has anyone built these things before?

 

[mudman]

You could always use those screws that have a small cutaway to prevent them from being unscrewed.

 

[Lord Nibbo]

Can anyone help? I am to build two large garage doors and wonder what hinges I should use to make sure it is secure? With my gates I use the hook on band hinges but they can be unscrewed from outside. the doors are large around 7' high and 4' wide each and will be made with a frame with T&G insets. Has anyone built these things before?

With doors that large I would use strap hinges like these

and use coach bolts with the nuts on the inside.

 

[Chris Knight]

This article might help/be of interest:-

http://woodshopdemos.com/gar-dr-1.htm

 

[Mike.C]

Mailee, I am building a garage at the moment and I am going to use these
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro ... 2&id=14977
They are very good and cannot be taken out by any scum bag. The only problem with this is, if for whatever reason you need to unscrew them you can't, but you can always drill them out.

There are a number of other screws on the market http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/cat ... 3&ts=46761
but IMHO these are the best.

Cheers

Mike

 

[Steve Maskery]

Mailee
My garage doors are the type you describe. I used heavy duty 100mm brass butts with steel washers, and they haven't budged a hair in 13 years. You can get some very nice stainless steel ones with ball bearing knuckles too. I'd go for 3 per door.

 

[Mike.C]

Mailee, another idea (copied from double glazed doors) are hinge bolts http://www.c-p-p.co.uk/product/asp/Prod ... f/page.htm with these fitted the thief will find it very hard to lift the doors off the hinges.

But don't forget to spend a few bob on a good quality lock.

Cheers

Mike

 

[wizer]

i'm so glad you asked this question, saved me starting a thread

You can get some very nice stainless steel ones with ball bearing knuckles.

Where from?

I was going to use butt hinges on my workshop doors

 

[JFC]

Ive built a few sets of garage doors and garden gates the same sort of size . I go for the frame ledged and braced mortice and tenon construction and would always recommend T hinges . I use the ones that have square holes to take a coach bolt so it cant be undone from the outside .

 

[mailee]

Thanks for all the replies guys. I think I will go for the 'T' hinges with the coach bolts, easier to fit. Don't fancy the idea of having to drill out screws if the need arises. Any ideas where to get these hinges with square holes in? Oh and by the way Mudman I am fine thanks for asking and goodbye to you too. Jan dow ne hen gow xing. :wink:

 

[Steve Maskery]

You can get some very nice stainless steel ones with ball bearing knuckles.

Where from?

Well I think any good architechtural ironmonger should have them, or at least be able to get them; Hafele do several, ranging from a couple of quid each to teens of pounds each. They even do brass palted stainless steel.

If you haven't got an architectural ironmonger near you, find a kitchen supplier. THey will have a Hafele acount, and may let you browse their catalogues.

Unfortunateley I can't just post a link to the Hafele part, as their site does not allow it - you'd have to log in.

 

[JFC]

Im sure i got mine from d and m tools , there just called heavy duty T hinges .

 

[mel]

hi mailee
the ones ive made have been fitted using stainless steel 4" with roller bearings , they are 1 hr fire rated for fire doors . for use on both interior and exterior doors . 1.5 or 2 prs per leaf .keeping the top pr close together
alternativley for that ornamental look, you could use band and hook , gate type hinges , and turn the top hook 180 degrees , this is so they cant be lifted out . not a problem if they are in a frame thou . for extra security you could use security screws { line everything up using normal screws }
ive got some security screws here if you want to stop by and collect them
all the above from elliss hardware near b+q
regs
mel

 

[wizer]

is this the sort of thing you mean steve?

http://www.sdslondon.co.uk/search.php?viewprod=70129

 

[Steve Maskery]

Yes. They look a bit broad to me, I think mine are 3" when opened out, but yes, that's the type of thing. I'm very pleased that I did mine this way. I know that strap & pin hinges look nice and are traditional, but they do have a reputation for sagging.

 

[wizer]

Thanks Steve. My doors will be 4" thick frame work so maybe I need the broader ones?

 

[Steve Maskery]

By "frame" do you mean the jamb and head, or the framestructure of the door, before it is clad? If the former, then that is irrelevant, it's the overall thickness of the doors that matter. If the latter... then definitely!

 

[WellsWood]

Wizer, shame on you. :roll: I thought you'd be working on your build on a lovely day like this, not stuck in front of your computer. :wink:

 

[wizer]

Well the method i'd made up in my head was to just make a framework out of 4x2 (much like that of the walls and base) and then insulate and clad it. Not sure what jamb and head means.

 

[wizer]

Mark: sadly no help today, would have been perfect to get stuff done. Got help tomorrow but it's threatening to rain :roll: