Fumed Oak - Question

[jpb]

After reading a number of articles on the subject I am going to to try and fume a couple of arts and craft projects I am working on. According to the article I read a strong domestic cleaning ammonia of about about 20% - 25% is perfectly adequate for overnight or 24 hour process.
I have a couple of questions
I have found a commercial cleaning ammonia with a 10% concentration is this strong enough?

Does anyone know where I can get a stronger solution in the east midlands or a commercial product name.

jpb

 

[Steve Maskery]

10% ammonia will work but you'll probably need longer than 24 hours. It depends on how big you peices are and how big/ tight/sealed your tent is.

It's a couple of years since I have fumed anything, but I bought my ammonia from my local pharmacist. You need to ask for .880 ammonia (point-eight-eighty). That means it's a saturated solution (it's 0.880 the density of water), the strongest you can get. He may raise an eyebrow, but if you explain why you want it and he is not too much of a jobsworth you may be able to persuade him.

IIRC I paid about £12 for a litre, so it's not cheap considering it's mainly water!

Treat it with the greatest respect. That bit that isn't water can cause a lot of damage.

HTH
Steve

 

[dickm]

Traditionally, wasn't oak fumed by hanging it in a stable, to take advantage of the ammonia fumes from the sh..?
I've done small pieces using just the standard cleaning ammonia. Possibly takes longer than if you use 880, but a lot cheaper.

 

[Steve Maskery]

Almost certainly, DickM. The black oak of stables is not painted, it is indeed fumed over many decades.

I once worked in the stables of a manor house, although by then the horses had long gone and were replaced by computer terminals (not PCs!). The Horses were gone but the DOGS (Design Office Graphics System) lived on.

S

 

[Chris Knight]

I got .880 ammonia from a printer who still did diazo prints. This was about four or five years ago now so I have no idea if there are any still using the process but it was a lot cheaper than Steve's price so it would be worth looking around.

You will need breathing and eye protection to use this stuff safely - 3M green cartridges in one of their masks and swimming goggle is what I use.

 

[bob_c]

I buy all my chemicals from this place,you need to state what usage its for when ordering.You also need to register to shop online.
http://www.lpchemicals.com/product.php?N=Ammonia+Solution+LR+SP+GR+0.88&Id=180

 

[Taffy Turner]

Traditionally, wasn't oak fumed by hanging it in a stable, to take advantage of the ammonia fumes from the sh..?
I've done small pieces using just the standard cleaning ammonia. Possibly takes longer than if you use 880, but a lot cheaper.

The ammonia comes from the horses urine, not the other stuff!

Gary

 

[lurker]

I'd personally use the weaker & cheaper easily available stuff.

OK it takes longer but that means you have more control over the exact depth of colour.

Bear in mind it will still continue to react "slightly" after you remove it from the ammonia.

Is there still a racing stables near you at Waltham??

 

[jpb]

The racing stables are the next farm down the road, about 200 yds away.

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Thanks everyone for the information and the link. I will give the weaker solution ago while I wait the couple of weeks for the 0.88 solution to arrive.

First up is a small 'Stickley' round side table I will post some picture's on the projects section showing my progress.

jpb

 

[stevieg]

iv'e recently started playing around with ammonia, the best place i've found to purchase it from are a wood finishing company called morrells, they are nationwide. it cost me about £9 for 5 litres 25 -35 %. other places i sourced were asking 20-30 squid.

 

[Racers]

Hi,

I have a bottle of the good stuff from the chemical lab at work its REALLY strong I had to leave the garage after I pored some out, you are welcome to borrow it and use some. I am in Nottingham if you fancy a trip up.

Pete