freud fail

[sunnybob]

After a three week wait for my new freud blade to arrive, i got quite excited, hoping to finally get a decent cut on my ryobi combi saw.
Then I tried a test cut on piece of well seasoned teak that was 40 mm thick x 350 mm long.
Oh £$%&*. That was 40 quid wasted.

Time to start serious saving for a new table saw

 

[ColeyS1]

At a glance that looks what I'd expect from a fence problem. Is the fence parallel on the cutting edge of the blade and also the back ?

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

 

[novocaine]

without knowing which way the wood was passed through, I'd agree with Coley (and was writing pretty much the same as he did), it looks like you are catching the blade on the back edge, most likely because the fence is extending past the centre of the blade and is sqewed towards the blade. try clamping a bit of wood to the bed as a fence, sqewed away from the blade a hair and not going past the middle of the blade (I believe it isn't meant to go past the gullet of the teeth on the front side)

 

[transatlantic]

Lets not jump to conclusions and blame the blade. Many, many people have great results. In fact, you're the first person I've seen to have issues. As above, looks like a fence issue

 

[novocaine]

Lets not jump to conclusions and blame the blade. Many, many people have great results. In fact, you're the first person I've seen to have issues. As above, looks like a fence issue

don't think Bawb is blaming the blade, but we might save him a few pence if it doesn't take a new saw to fix it.

 

[Lons]

A couple of questions Bob.

Have you tried cutting any other timber with that blade?
Was the teak warped in any way, was the edge against the fence dead straight?

I've used Freud blade for years and always get decent cuts, still need a plane or saning to finish but pretty decent off the saw.

Bob

 

[Geoff_S]

It's a Freudian Slip

 

[MattRoberts]

Nightmare Bob, but I agree it's not likely to be the blade.

Try removing the fence and clamping a flat board to act as a fence to the table, so we can eliminate that

 

[PAC1]

Bob, can you take a photo of your fence set up and positioning. It does look like something is not right on the fence. It is either not parallel or is too far forward. The fence should end at the gullet of the tooth just above the table for rip cuts. Also are the teeth marks on the photo from the front cutting edge or the rear of the blade? Is the riving knife the correct thickness for your new blade?
From memory you bought a fine toothed saw? which is intended for crosscutting not ripping. how does it work as a cross cut saw.

 

[transatlantic]

Lets not jump to conclusions and blame the blade. Many, many people have great results. In fact, you're the first person I've seen to have issues. As above, looks like a fence issue

don't think Bawb is blaming the blade, but we might save him a few pence if it doesn't take a new saw to fix it.

The title says 'Freud Fail'

 

[novocaine]

The title says 'Freud Fail'

thing he means it was his fail thinking the Freud would fix the issue. can see why you interpret it that way though.

Time to start serious saving for a new table saw

 

[sunnybob]

Yeah, I could have come up with a snappier title, but I was bit "down" when I wrote it.

I've spent many hours on this saw, trying to get it to cut (to be honest) above its pay grade. It was me that failed, not the freud.

While youve all been kindly suggesting stuff I have been working on it.
Definitely the fence. 100%. I shall see if I can post it back to Mickey mouse, he might need it. Problem is there is no room to make another to fit the rail. The entire table is only 250 mm x 300 mm. I clamped a straight piece of wood across the table and the cut improved quite a bit. but thats extremely fiddly trying to grip the cast alloy table with no straight edge and all the casting ribs underneath. It took me over a quarter hour to cut four strips that were almost the same thickness.

The teak is first class, at least 60 years since it was a tree, deep and straight. beautiful creamy colour.

I still found the wood was wandering away from the fence, despite using a straight edge to align it. And the teak even started to catch on the rising guard just as it reached the blade, again causing a sideways catch. The thin cut strip lodged under the guard, so I had to stop the machine each time to retrieve it.
i just have to accept this is a contractors saw, and as such will cut to its specification. Now though at least I know I have tried everything.

I cannot justify the £1000 price of a new saw and shipping, for just a small hobby use so thats it, I shall have to make do.
Ta again for all the help.

 

[novocaine]

cheer up Bob, at least it's not raining.

 

[PAC1]

Bob, try setting up a rip fence. you could clamp a straight piece of timber to the table as before and then fix a short fence to it that ends at the gullet of the tooth nearest the front edge. Then rip a piece of straight timber. Do not focus on the relative position of the timber once it passes the front of the rip fence only ensure that it is against your rip fence before it reaches the blade. There should be no need to push the wood hard against the fence. When cut see if the cut is straight and parallel or curved. Also if the crown guard can be raised so it does not fowl the start of the cut and then allowed to rest on the timber once the cut has started that may assist.

 

[sunnybob]

PAC (strangely enough, thats my wifes initials) its just not worth the bother. Trying to clamp on wonky surfaces the clamps slip off, trying to get the wood square to the blade is impossible because the guard completely covers the blade. There isnt a flat or square on the whole table to reference off.
If I had four hands and a lot time I could maybe manage it.
It is what it is, aint no way I can make it better.
Just means I have to spend a lot more time with my router sled cleaning up all the sides and edges.

 

[novocaine]

I added a set of adjustment bolts to the fence of my saw so I could adjust it to how I wanted it. wasn't especially difficult to do. I can snap you a few pictures later if you want but it isn't that hard to figure out how I did it, especially as I'm more than well aware you have a good head for this stuff.

 

[PAC1]

Bob, if it is that bad should you be using it at all?
I suspect there are ways.
First why can you not remove the crown guard whilst you get the fence parallel to the blade and then replace it before switching the saw on. It must be bolted to the riving knife somehow.
Second if you cannot clamp the fence to the top of the table can you screw two pieces of wood at right angles to the underside of you straight piece of wood you use as a fence slightly wider than the table and then use folding wedges to secure the fence to the edge of the table or a clamp to the edge of the table.

 

[toolsntat]

Bob, any chance of a picture?
The size you quote for the saw sounds really small, but all is not lost.
Can you not get some 6mm sheet Ali or the like and fix it over the table of the saw.
500mm x 500mm should be enough to get you a 200mm width of cut utilizing a clamped on fence.
I must say that looking at the work you produce you have plenty of ability to see this through at minimal cost.
If you beg my pardon for asking but are you, in general, confident about table sawing as it can be a daunting task for some?
Wish you were round the corner, I'd gladly pop in and lend a hand to try and solve your woes.
Cheers Andy

 

[John15]

Don't feel too down Bob. You can probably do most of your cuts on your bandsaw. I got rid of my table saw about 6 months ago and upgraded my bandsaw - don't miss the table saw a bit.

John

 

[sunnybob]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F4WxH43 ... 0Angelides

skip the first two minutes.
You can see its trying to be everything. Chop saw, Mitre saw, table saw.
My fault entirely that I bought it. It was the first machine I bought when I decided to "take up" woodworking as a retirement hobby. I didnt know anyone else who worked with wood and I listened to the salesman.

My woodworking has surprised me, in that I really didnt think i would stick (hah!) with it.
This ryobi just doesnt suit my current needs, and I just cant be arsed to spend a half hour setting up every cut, because I almost never cut the same size twice.


Andy, spent a lifetime working with machines that were all out to get me. Table saw isnt that scary. :roll:

If I still lived in the UK I would just buy an old English and refurb. But the cost of shipping anything weighty here puts it beyond what I am prepared to spend.