In trying to sort the assembly out I ended up copying the set up on the Kity as the Fox is clone of the 419 (I think). This isn't to say that you can't do it another way.
As you can see I have set the sliding table up so that the fence is pushing the stock which I think is better than the way shown in 'manual'
The fence is attached to the sliding table using the two (identical) aluminium blocks. You have to slide a couple of nuts up the front chanel of the fence and the use the hand crews to attache the blocks to the fence. The left hand block is held to the table using the stud that is welded to a bit of flat bar that runs in the T slot. This is clamped in place using the plastic locking handle. The right hand block is held in place by inserting the hold down through the block and securing it with one of the grub screws. Don't tighten it too much as the hold down has to rotate a bit.
In teh left hand corner there is a large dia hole. This takes the angle stop (for want of a better word) this is the round bar with an offset hole in it. It is held in place with the second grub screw and needs to be slightly below the table surface as the pin has a circlip on it which needs to clear the fence.
One problem I had on mine was that the scale had been stuck on back to front and so didn't line up with anything - worth checking on yours. On mine it was just a simple matter of un-peeling it rotating it 180 deg and sticking it back. You might be able to see in the photo that I scribed a couple of lines on the sliding table for 45 deg although generally use the sliding table for 90 deg cuts.
There is an end stop which is held in place by a bolt inserted into the top of the fence and held down with the second plastic locking handle. On mine the stop can be rotated to either side of the fence as the nyloc nut isn't done up too tight.
I hope this helps in setting up the sliding table. A couple of other tips - the scale on the front bar on mine wasn't in the right place - like the angle scale. Just peel it off and reposition. I also had to modify the locking handle on the rip fence as the stud was proud and so marked the front bar - worth checking. I also cut a bit off the top of the riving knife so that the top is just below the top of the blade. This means that you only have to take off the guard to do slots. One job I've still got to do is make up a new riving knife as the new blade I bought from Axminster has a thinner kerf - something to think about too if you change the blade.
Once set up however it seems to do the job well enough - as you can see from the saw dust mine does get used!
Let us know how you get on,
Steve
