Fobco Universal restoration

[PaulO]

I recently purchased a Fobco Universal drill (like a Fobco Star but with the capability to perform "light milling duties"), an example can be seen here:
http://www.lathes.co.uk/fobco/
(half way down the page)

It runs beautifully, but has a bit of surface rust that I am sorting out. I have a couple of questions that someone may be able to help me with:

The down feed bar looks like it should be adjustable, but is seized on mine (there is some rust on the bar). I have tried to free it with a G clamp and a mallet, but to no avail. Can someone confirm that it should adjust before I heat it up with the oxy-acetylene.

The clamp for the table has a slit cut to allow the clamping bolt to pinch the main support shaft. On the table the slit does not go all the way through the casting, so the clamping requires a lot of effort. Should I complete the slit, or is some material left for a good reason. I could post a photo.

Does anybody now the procedure for fitting and correctly tensioning the quill return spring? I took mine out and it is a pipper to get back at the correct tension, although it is working for now.

Thanks for all your help.

 

[motownmartin]

The down feed bar looks like it should be adjustable, but is seized on mine (there is some rust on the bar). I have tried to free it with a G clamp and a mallet, but to no avail. Can someone confirm that it should adjust before I heat it up with the oxy-acetylene.


Thanks for all your help.

That should be adjustable as it's your depth stop

 

[PaulO]

No, not the depth stop bar, the bar you actually pull on.

I have discovered it should be adjustable, and have freed it with a bit of heat. Now it is all polished up it works a treat.

Just need to find out how to re-tension the quill return spring now.

 

[9fingers]

Hi Paul,
If the table clamp is a single pinch bolt arrangement and the collar is not cut through then I dont think the clamp would work at all.

You might find the clamp is more subtle and maybe uses a two part cotter pin arrangement perhaps rather like the quill lock appears to from the photos

You might find some crud has got between the clamping surfaces and instead of applying force over a useful surface area, it is all applied at a point.

It maybe that due to thread wear the adjustment range has bottomed out and an exta washer or similar might fix it.

I'd be reluctant to attack it with a hacksaw until you are sure how it is meant to work.

Good Luck

Bob

 

[PaulO]

Hi Paul,
If the table clamp is a single pinch bolt arrangement and the collar is not cut through then I dont think the clamp would work at all.

Nope, no cotter pin arrangement, unlike the quill and the head stock. It is a single pinch bolt arrangement, and the slit wasn't completed by about 5 thou. No crud in the slit. I have cut through the slit, and now the clamping on the table works perfectly. I don't understand how the previous users tolerated the problem.

The drill is fantastic now that I have tuned it up.

 

[dickm]

Checked my Fobco, and as you say, the slot is complete, but there <was> some very compacted crud just where the slot joins the column. To adjust the spring, you need to take off the cover of the spring assembly then slacken off the socket head grub screw which holds the assembly in place (in the main casting, under the spring assembly). You'll need either a chain wrench or large mole grips to hold the spring collar, and rotate it until the tension is as you want it. Tighten the grub screw,s replace the cover and it should be fine.
Sorry if this is grandmothers and eggs, but you did ask :?

 

[PaulO]

Checked my Fobco, and as you say, the slot is complete, but there <was> some very compacted crud just where the slot joins the column. To adjust the spring, you need to take off the cover of the spring assembly then slacken off the socket head grub screw which holds the assembly in place (in the main casting, under the spring assembly). You'll need either a chain wrench or large mole grips to hold the spring collar, and rotate it until the tension is as you want it. Tighten the grub screw,s replace the cover and it should be fine.
Sorry if this is grandmothers and eggs, but you did ask :?

Thanks. It was the chain wrench/large mole grips I was having a problem with. I loosened the grubscrew to extract the whole mechanism without realising the spring would go ping! Have to see if I can rig something up with large tie wraps, as I'm sure mole grips will marr the surface.

 

[Bean]

Not if you use a rag between the grips and the casing, failing that look for a cheap oil filter wrench, with either a rubber or nylon strap that will do the job without damaging the surface.

 

[dickm]

Yes, I think I used a bit of rag with the mole when tightening mine, but the suggestion of one of those strap-type oil filter wrench would be even better.
Actully, I've only just noticed that it's the really posh Fobco you've got, not the bog standard one I'm jealous!

 

[PaulO]

Thanks for the tips, I hadn't removed the nut that held the indicator ring on, as I was afraid the spring would pop out completely. Having removed it, I wrapped the casing in about ten layers of insulating tape then used mole grips. So now my tension is set correctly.

How should one go about greasing the quill, as mine doesn't seem to have a grease nipple unlike some? Just applying to the surface at top and bottom doesn't seem very satisfactory.

Does anyone know if the Universal has better/different bearings than the Star, or are the changes just fine downfeed, threaded spindle nose and x/y table?

 

[Jimbo!]

Hello,

My first post as a noob so sorry if this is telling you how to suck eggs - especially as I'm about to post on a very similar subject!!!

But, I've just got a Star and it has a grease nipple near the pully case and also one on the quill (hope that's the right term) which is only exposed at full stroke.

Hope that helps.

 

[Racers]

Hi,

Nipple, quill and full stroke in one sentence that has got to get the double entendre of the week award.

Pete

 

[lurker]

Its down to your filthy mind Pete.
Us innocent types would not have noticed.

 

[Jimbo!]

star and grease too - sorry :shock:

 

[mikejoebrooks]

Do any of you gentlemen have a copy of the manual for the Fobco Universal 16mm MT Bench Driller please? I have just aquired one from our factories' tool room that clankies wanted shifted so have decided to restore her best I can. Looks like there's a bearing gone for starters which is throwing the chuck off and she's pretty grubby. I'd also love to learn to use the milling facility so that I don't have to bother the Toolmaker to make little slots etc. for me. I'm a sparkie so go easy....

Cheers

Mike

 

[wallace]

Welcome Mike, is this the same machine http://www.gobookee.org/fobco-pillar-drill-manual/ That post is 5 years old.

 

[misterfish]

Hi Mike

I've never found an actual manual for a Fobco drill and I've looked on and off for ages!

Send me a 'pm' when you've made a few posts (it won't let you until you've done this) and I'll check the documentation I have found and bought and see if any of it might be of use. If you want I'll then scan it for you.

Misterfish

 

[mikejoebrooks]

Hi,

Thanks for your reply, going by the dates of the last ones I didn't expect any luck. The drill doesn't actually belong to me, it's based at work. The general utility lads used to use her for stirring paint believe it or not so it was in a state. After trying to find the manual I realised how much interest there are in these things so decided that restoring her to her former glory was only right.

 

[mikejoebrooks]

I've since learnt that the bearings may either need changing or the spindle may be bent (am I right with spindle?) from too much downward pressure. If this is the case I may be able to get one made in house, but how do I go about locating new bearings?

 

[mikejoebrooks]

Someone has also drilled the table in several places so any tips on restoring this would be great. I've seen a YouTube video and a forum where a guy bought cast iron sticks and welded it up and milled it back down. Is this specialist or can the stick welder at work cope with it and the lads at work do it for me?