Flush Cutting Saw

[Shay Vings]

I want a saw for parting off small pieces on the lathe. I also need a saw for flush cutting when a dowel has been inserted.

Can this Axminster Veritas save me money by doing both jobs?

http://www.axminster.co.uk/product.asp? ... =1&jump=44

 

[Ad de Crom]

I want a saw for parting off small pieces on the lathe. I also need a saw for flush cutting when a dowel has been inserted.

Can this Axminster Veritas save me money by doing both jobs?

http://www.axminster.co.uk/product.asp? ... =1&jump=44

Normally I use an iron saw for parting off small pieces on the lathe.
But the axminster will do the job also perfectly.
Ad

 

[Blister]

Why not use one of these

http://www.axminster.co.uk/product.asp? ... =1&jump=44

and a normal saw if needed

even for cutting dowels you will need to Finnish the work after cutting the dowels off

 

[Jonzjob]

I have one of those Blister and they are very good. I did a weekend course with Ian Wilkie a long time back ad he advised that I should get one, but he said that it's a good idea to grind the point of at 90 deg to the diagonal so that you have about a 1/2 inch face there. It makes it a hell of a lot easier to control the cut. I tried it without and then did as advised and it is a lovely non wasting tool to use now!

It's surprising just how big a diameter they can manage too if you are carefull!

 

[Gitface]

Hi All

I got my self one of these. Made a handle for it and cut to shape with an angle grider then sharped on the bench grinder.

You have to make sure you get the power hacksaw blades (about 2mm to 3mm thick) and not the standard hand blades as theses are not strong enough.

Still got plenty left to make a spare when needed.

Mark............

 

[bobham]

The thing that makes a flush cutting saw a flush cutting saw is that the teeth are set only to one side. That keeps them from scratching an adjacent surface. It also makes the saw tend to wander towards the side the teeth are set on. That means that when cutting a 1/2" dowel flush with a surface the cut starts flush to the surface but by the time you get to the other side it leaves the dowel 1/32" to 1/16" proud of the surface. The dowel is then pared back using a sharp chisel. What that means when turning is that if you tried to use it for parting cuts it would tend to leave a domed surface on one side of the kerf and a concave surface on the other. It would also tend to bind in the cut.

The blade is also very thin and flexible. The teeth are oriented to cut on the pull stroke.

Take care
Bob

 

[Shay Vings]

Thanks for comments, especially Bobham. Your remarks on how they actually (don't) work in practice save me the money.

 

[dannykaye]

for cutting off I use a japanese saw with a 0.3mm kerf, they also make flush cut saws with no set on either side, for example

http://www.axminster.co.uk/product-Ice-Bear-Japanese-Kugihiki-Flushcut-Saw-20397.htm

I suggest you try one, if you have difficulty making a cut it is flexible enough that you can press it down next to the dowel or whatever without scratching the surface