floating cabinet panels

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steviem

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Have I imagined this?
I seem to think Ive read somewhere about a method of making flush panelled cabinet doors using a separate tongue.
The way I remember it both the panel and the frame were rebated and a strip of wood was used to join the pieces.

Not sure Ive explained this very well :roll:
 
Yes this is clear, i have just made 15 kitchen doors all made out of 50mm strips of ash all made into panels with sperate tenons. Each 50mm by 20 mm ash strip has had a 6mm wide by 10mm deep grove cut in them which are then joined via glued 6mm by 20mm tongue

The panels are set in a shaker frames with floating tenons into the frames to allow for expansion.

Could post you some photos later in the week if this would help

hope this helps

jon
 
hunggaur":3nbi2ybw said:
Yes this is clear, i have just made 15 kitchen doors all made out of 50mm strips of ash all made into panels with sperate tenons. Each 50mm by 20 mm ash strip has had a 6mm wide by 10mm deep grove cut in them which are then joined via glued 6mm by 20mm tongue

The panels are set in a shaker frames with floating tenons into the frames to allow for expansion.

Could post you some photos later in the week if this would help

hope this helps

jon

Some photos would be very helpful - Ive got a hall piece to make and I like the idea of cabinet doors with a flush panel made from Spalted beech and rails/stiles in oak but with a subtle gap which wont move around too much. What did you make the floating tenons out of?
 
hi i will take some photos later today,

i made the tenons out ash ash well so everything has the same properties and the same rates of movement.

to make life easy i milled everything to 20mm thick, and as i had put 10mm deep groves in each piece of wood (6mm wide) i was then able just to rip off 6mm strips which i new would be the right depth to fit to mortise slots.

hope this helps

jon
 
pictures as promised

4819990665_8ff95ce762.jpg


4820608670_49e8faf4b5.jpg


4819993741_c7e4fef8f4.jpg


4820607668_0c98983699.jpg
 
Lovely finish there Jon
Very neat and clean - Im not a big fan of raised panels - they just look a bit dated to me - but your flush finish makes for a very contempory look
Like it!!
 
no problems, hope it has answered your question and given you an insight into the panel construction

regards

jon
 
Sorry if this is dumb question but what is the advantage of this method over cutting a tongue on the panel to fit directly into the stile rebate?

Bob
 
9fingers":1mmbhabd said:
Sorry if this is dumb question but what is the advantage of this method over cutting a tongue on the panel to fit directly into the stile rebate?

Bob

Hi Bob none really for me it was easier,

As i had to join all the bits of wood together with tongues anyway it just made sense i could set all the machines up once rather than making all the panels and then having to go back and recut tongues on the side of the panel as they already had a grove in them.

i used this method to join the wood togehter as it need less passess through the saw. To make a tongue on each piece takes 4 passess to make the grove is 2 passess plus one to cut the tenon. it also requires 2 setups of the dado blade one for the tongue and one for the groove. The way i used just need one setup for the groove. so it was just little quicker for me. When you are making 15 x 600mm wide doors out of 50mm wide stock that a lot of extra cuts and setup.

kind regards

jon
 
Thanks Jon

I can appreciate the time save on machine set up makes it worthwhile even thought there are more piece parts.

Cheers

Bob
 
I've made frame and panel doors in MDF in a similar way. I used 18 mm MDF for the frame and 6 mm for the panel. I used the same 6 mm MDF for the loose tenons as I didn't fancy cutting tenons in MDF. As said above, once the router table with slot cutter is set up it is so easy to run all the pieces. The kitchen cabinet doors are still holding up well after a couple of years too. Someone else on the forum has posted pictures the process (can't remember who and too idle to do a search).
 
steviem":2t021itn said:
Have I imagined this?
I seem to think Ive read somewhere about a method of making flush panelled cabinet doors using a separate tongue.
The way I remember it both the panel and the frame were rebated and a strip of wood was used to join the pieces.

Not sure Ive explained this very well :roll:



9fingers":2t021itn said:
Sorry if this is dumb question but what is the advantage of this method over cutting a tongue on the panel to fit directly into the stile rebate?

Bob



Will people please stop using the word 'rebate' when they mean 'groove'

The two are quite different.
 
with you on the separate tongue from the timesaving perspective.

nice job by the way jon.

i've an idea to do something similar, (was just going to tongue and groove the panels....might not now), but i am looking to have just vertical panels visible the same width of the stiles.

how would doing away with the front face shoulders on the rails to overlap the panels full height affect stability? i thought i could tongue the rails into grooves behind the overlap in the panels top and bottom.

i did ask george, but all he likes to make are raised panels!

what do you think?

all the best,

jeff
 
You can combine the two, with loose tongues joining the boards and a fielded perimeter. Obviously the tongues need to be thinner than the edges.
doorsmall.jpg
 
BradNaylor":2hrx3bus said:
steviem":2hrx3bus said:
Have I imagined this?
I seem to think Ive read somewhere about a method of making flush panelled cabinet doors using a separate tongue.
The way I remember it both the panel and the frame were rebated and a strip of wood was used to join the pieces.

Not sure Ive explained this very well :roll:



9fingers":2hrx3bus said:
Sorry if this is dumb question but what is the advantage of this method over cutting a tongue on the panel to fit directly into the stile rebate?

Bob



Will people please stop using the word 'rebate' when they mean 'groove'

The two are quite different.

yeah right thanks :roll:
 
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