Fixing new workshop floor

[PaulO]

My workshop floor is a rough screeded concrete (garage), and I want to lay T&G chipboard over it to make it more comfortable, easier to clean, and easier to roll my machines around.

I am intending to lay battens then fix 22mm T&G MR chipboard on top, with a top coat of two pack epoxy.

My question regards fixing the battens to the concrete, I have a few options and was wondering if anyone had any recommendations:-
1) I was originally intending to drill, plug and screw the battens down to the concrete.
2) Gripfill, easier, and may take up slight irregularities in the floor. However there is some slightly flaking paint on the floor, so the fix might not be that great.
3) Hilti gun, looks like fun.
4) Pneumatic concrete nailer
5) No fixings at all, allow the whole lot to float

I am also not sure whether I should be adding a vapour barrier, the existing floor is poured over a DPM, and has had nearly 10 years of curing and seems dry.

I am also wondering whether I should be adding insulation, bearing in mind that half the floor won't be battened, as a car lives in half the space.

 

[ByronBlack]

I would just grip-fill and place some insulation between the battens and then fix the T&G on top, you shouldn't need to nail or bolt the battens in place, the weight of the floor and anythig in top of it will stop anything moving, and gripfil should be strong enough IMO.

 

[PowerTool]

I tend to over-engineer things,so personally would drill,plug and screw - as long as you don't go deep enough to puncture the DPM,of course.

Andrew (who went for concrete,and anti-fatigue matting)

 

[OLD]

I would lay that thin foam used under laminate flooring then lay a floating floor but glueing the tenons on the t&g ,finish with a water based varnish .Well thats what i did and machinery runs over it fine.

 

[Shadowfax]

I agree with OLD.
That's what I did with my workshop floor and it is fine.
It is also fairly warm compared to the bare concrete so I would say forget the battens and let the floor float. If the concrete is reasonably level then your machines will move around easily, without any unwanted give in the floor. This also keeps more available height in the workshop.

Cheers.

SF

 

[PaulO]

Thanks for the replies.

The floor is probably too uneven to float the floor straight on top of it. I also think a bit of give is desirable for comfort.

I had planned to glue the T&G and possible the battens to the chipboard as well, as per the suggestions in the brochure here:

http://www.norbord.com/Caberboard_Brochure.htm

 

[CNC Paul]

PaulO

I would lay 25mm polystyrene overlaid with MR T&G chipboard, just glue th chipboard together .....its a great floor for working on.

A friend of mine has this with a Altendorf F45 Elmo on top, no problem at all... very comfortable to work on.

leave out the epoxy, it will just make it slippy.



CNC Paul