Fixing Advice Cedar Cladding..

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exigetastic

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Hi all...

Been a long time since I've been on.. too much to do so little time.. :(

I'm after a bit of advice.

Basically I have 800 linear metres (not a typo) of Western Red Cedar ready to install on my workshop... as I'll be doing this on my own it's dawned on me maybe a hammer is going to take a rather long time.

I don't have a compressor, or a nailer yet, and researching it is doing my nut in. :cry:

From what I can tell the "right tool" seems to be a coil nailer (I was looking at Bostitch N66) I also understand I should be looking for stainless steel nails... for the life of me I can't find Stainless Steel nails in reasonable quantities (I really don't need 10,000 :( )

One place I did see some was at Spotnails cedar but having phoned them up they said I needed that _exact_ gun, which I am struggling to justify...

The only other option I have considered was galvanised, however I can't seem to tell if the nails online are hot dipped or electro plated, again it's large quantities so an expensive gamble, and not even sure this is a good idea (spending a big wedge on nice timber only to have it go all streaky after a few years cos I skimped on nails)

Lastly I guess it's something like a Paslode 350, and S/S fixings, concern there is the suitability of clipped head nailers... on the upside I'd get some fair use out of it for other stuff I guess.


Any help very much appreciated...


Si
 
My own little workshop (480 linear mtr) was done with a cordless and st/st screws from Screwfix. All on my lonsome. Took about 3 days
Cedar was/is rough sawn and came from Bala, north Wales.
I used some metal hooks to hold the planks in approximate position whilst I made sure with a level and screwed in place.

I chose to use st/st screws as it was cheapest and no danger of mis-hitting the cedar and damaging it.
Alex.
 
slimshady":ku2q24ei said:
My own little workshop (480 linear mtr) was done with a cordless and st/st screws from Screwfix. All on my lonsome. Took about 3 days
Cedar was/is rough sawn and came from Bala, north Wales.
I used some metal hooks to hold the planks in approximate position whilst I made sure with a level and screwed in place.

I chose to use st/st screws as it was cheapest and no danger of mis-hitting the cedar and damaging it.
Alex.

I had half considered screws... I'm using a channel profile with an extra length groove to facilitate hiding the fixings (sorry probably pertinent to the request) so drill + countersink + screw... might take me a while good job I have enough cordless drills :lol:

Another option to ponder though :idea:
 
hi there

we've done loads of cedar cladding at work. Hidden nailing through the tongues doesn't work but is okay to hold them in place temporarilly.

We hand nail 2.5 inch galv lost heads straight through the face.

Screwing seem ott to me.
 
A coil nailer will be a neater job than a paslode. Though you can get a soft tip for the paslode which helps.
SS screws can look great if left exposed but this takes a lot of time marking out accurately.
Most decent sized fencing outlets sell coil nails in smaller quantities however will probably not have SS ones.
You will probably find a compressor very usefull in the workshop anyway so i would go the route of buying one, and try and borrow a coil nailer.
I noticed costco have a Bostiich one for £99+vat which is both a cracking machine and cheap.
Where in the UK are you?
 
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