First Table Saw SIP 01332 Missing Bits, EBay Lesson

[kmp]

Having eventually decided on a table saw I grabbed an SIP 01332 off of eBay at what I believed to be a reasonable price, first lesson look properly before you buy. There are a couple of items missing that I would appreciate some advice on before buying the standard item.

The micro adjustment assembly is missing from the fence although the rack is there. Is this something I am likely to use or is it just “bells and whistles”? I am using the saw to make simple cabinets and will move on to simple furniture if I ever develop the required skills.

The mitre guide is missing as well, is there a better after market item or is the standard one OK? I think I have read somewhere that it is not the best as standard.

The riving knife is missing although I knew about that one. Again, is the standard one OK as it is not very expensive or is there a better alternative. If so please could you give me a clue where to look for them?

Any advice would be much appreciated, many thanks.

Keith

 

[rdesign]

hi keith bought the same saw as you

same storey second hand the micro adjuster was broken on mine too but its not a big deal.
my rifing knife was bent bought an altendorf 2.5 mm one instead way better. actually flat and not flexible if you wanna use the blade guard (i Don't) you can drill a hole in it. setting it can be a pain in the arse but once its done its done for ever
The mitre gauge isn't great buy either the slider which mine has or build urself a wooden sled much more accurate. make sure the saw is set parallel to the mitre tracks theirs 4 bolts that hold it to the table hard to axis but loosen those and adjust to parallel if not. i used a clamp and only opened them a tiny bit worked ok.

If you have any questions just ask just got my saw tuned up and ruining perfectly yesterday so fresh in the mind.

Best of luck
Richard

 

[Steve Maskery]

When you get a new RK (and don't even think of ripping without one) make sure it is the right thickness for your blade. It should be thicker than the plate but thinner than the kerf. For standard blades that means that 3mm is ideal, as the kerf is 1/8" (3.2mm) and the plate will be 2.5mm or thereabouts.
Fine adjusters are useful but not essential. I have a shop-made one on mine. It's handy when trimming very small amounts to make something fit.
If you want a mitre fence, Osbourne is highly thought-of, although I've not used it myself. Again, it's not difficult to make your own wooden version. For standard 90deg crosscuts, a sled is better anyway.
S

 

[Graham Orm]

Sound advice from Mr Maskery re riving knife. Having had a cast SIP saw some years ago from new, I found the micro adjuster/ fence system faultless. It had to go due to downsizing. :-(

EDIT: Just looked it up, it was the same model that you have. Great machine. I would buy the standard bits from SIP and get it back to new condition. Mine was superb.
The standard one worked fine, but as you're renewing I'd go for an improved mitre gauge.

 

[rdesign]

Sound advice from Mr Maskery re riving knife. Having had a cast SIP saw some years ago from new, I found the micro adjuster/ fence system faultless. It had to go due to downsizing. :-(

EDIT: Just looked it up, it was the same model that you have. Great machine. I would buy the standard bits from SIP and get it back to new condition. Mine was superb.
The standard one worked fine, but as you're renewing I'd go for an improved mitre gauge.

Just a quick question I have the fence and hate it! want to change it for a t square fence. how did u set it up?? mine seems to like to wander have to be really careful when locking it down that its square doesn't self square against the front rail

 

[Steve Maskery]

Yes, a fence that locks to three points on the front rail is a MUCH better option.
Even though my Xculibur has a top-notch fence, I made another one for my DVD series. It locks at three points and is every bit as good as the original Xcalibur one. Rock solid and accurate time after time. It is also adjustable and relies on simple metalworking - just hacksaw, file and nuts and bolts. No welding necessary. It's and excellent and easy upgrade.
Mine cost me about £20 for the metal, £30 for the clamp that locks it in place, plus a bit for nuts and bolts. Worth every penny.
You may have to replace the front rail with a square one, but that is easy to do.

 

[Graham Orm]

Sound advice from Mr Maskery re riving knife. Having had a cast SIP saw some years ago from new, I found the micro adjuster/ fence system faultless. It had to go due to downsizing. :-(

EDIT: Just looked it up, it was the same model that you have. Great machine. I would buy the standard bits from SIP and get it back to new condition. Mine was superb.
The standard one worked fine, but as you're renewing I'd go for an improved mitre gauge.

Just a quick question I have the fence and hate it! want to change it for a t square fence. how did u set it up?? mine seems to like to wander have to be really careful when locking it down that its square doesn't self square against the front rail

Is it locking properly at both ends. There are adjustment screws on the side furthest from the handle to tighten things up. Mine never wandered.

Is it hooked over properly at the far end?

 

[kmp]

Hi Guys,

Thanks for the rapid replies, a great help as with the rain hammering down I can get out and fiddle a little in the shop.

Richard, I was not sure that the SIP would fit into my smallish shop with the sliding table so went for a basic machine to start with. The plan of course to add one later if possible, I had thought of fitting the Axminster version as it seems a better price at the moment. I even thought of fitting the much smaller TS200 kit just to try things out but it might limit the capacity too much. I don’t need to crosscut 8’x4’ sheets though. Where would I look for a riving knife as I haven’t had much luck with Google? The blade isn’t quite parallel to the mitre slot but not too far out (about 0.3mm) so I will adjust as you suggest thanks. I’m sure I will have some more questions for you as I find my way round the machine.

Steve, thanks for that, the blade that came with it looks well used and has obviously been sharpened many times. It measures up in a way that gives me some concern in that the plate is 2.24mm thick and the cutting tips are only 2.5mm. That seems to give very little clearance to me and must be a kick back risk? I think I will replace the blade with a new one before I do much work with it. I will build a sled in the short term and then see if the sliding table or mitre gauge would be a better bet.

Graham, thanks, good to hear that it is a good solid machine so worth spending a little time with. I will indeed get the standard parts from SIP and leave the mitre block for another day. I have made a couple of test cuts and it is very quiet and powerful, most impressive but I am only comparing it to my old Clarke CTS10 saw.

An interesting discussion re the fence as it was my biggest disappointment when I got this home; it wouldn’t lock properly and seemed to have a mind of its own as far as positioning. I took it apart and found a few interesting things which weren’t helping. The cam plates were bent and only contacting one side of the thrust plate. The plate was fitted upside down so it tilted in the fence extrusion and was jamming on the bar before pulling the rear clamp into position. The wheel at the back was also seized and dragging on the table and causing the fence to twist when moved. Having straightened things out and assembled it correctly the fence system seems to work well although I haven’t measured the repeatability yet to any degree of accuracy.

Many thanks all a great help.

Keith

 

[Steve Maskery]

If you are going to get a new blade, talk to Doug Perry at Cutting Solutions. He'll sort you out with good quality at a reasonable price and will also be able to give you advice about the thickness of RK needed for it.
S

 

[kmp]

Thanks Steve, I will do that just as soon as I have ordered "No 7 Table Saw Essentials". You have to start somewhere.

Regards

Keith

 

[rdesign]

If you get the original riving knife it projects higher than the blade probably why it was taken off. u will need to cut the cap in it longer to allow it be mounted lower.

your blade is probably a narrow kurf blade another reason he maybe took off the riving knife by a new blade and install a 2.5mm riving knife. any make will do just found the sip one to be flimsey not very solid but it works.

got my riving knife off a friend who had a few for his panel saw. sure if you call a supplier they can get u one.

a good sled will do everything a sliding carriage will do if your not cutting sheet goods. i do like the slider tho and its going to be used on my router table/ outfeed table and if i ever get a spindle moulder it will go as my outfeed to use the slider in my small shop.

On my fence it works it does what it says on the tin but i have to check it if not perfect when i lock it down it doesn't self square can lock down with a twist and i have it really tight it doesn't move once locked down.

 

[rafezetter]

If you have any questions just ask just got my saw tuned up and ruining perfectly yesterday so fresh in the mind.

Best of luck
Richard

freudian slip?

 

[Graham Orm]

If you have any questions just ask just got my saw tuned up and ruining perfectly yesterday so fresh in the mind.

Best of luck
Richard

freudian slip?

:lol: :lol: =D>

 

[rdesign]

If you have any questions just ask just got my saw tuned up and ruining perfectly yesterday so fresh in the mind.

Best of luck
Richard

freudian slip?

yes its running perfectly the fence is parrallel but if i just lock it down without being careful it goes outta wack but the slider and my mitre slots r finally tuned up and the blade is at 90 and 45. i would just like to upgrade my fence to a t square as think its not a great method of locking down as you can't adjust the fence to square when its locked down as the fence is part of the tensioning so if you loosen the screws its not locked down.

am i missing a trick??

 

[kmp]

Hi Richard

I spent a couple of hours with my fence today to test the repeatability of the locking mechanism. I’m not sure what I should be expecting really. However, when moving and re-locking the fence by moving it from the centre to minimize twisting; at the same time pushing back on the handle while locking to force the front plate against the guide rail when the rear pad locks, I can achieve fairly consistent (about 85%) results. The fence remains parallel within 1mm across the width of the table. The other 15% though can be up to 4mm out at the back. If I move the fence from the front using the locking handle it will always adopt a position at the rear that is away from the direction of travel. So while a long way from perfect (on mine anyway) if I adopt the right technique it will certainly do me at my current level of competence. I agree with you that a T square type should provide much better results and may start to collect the steel to make one as I can.

I have also noticed that the blade arbor has a little end float which I don’t like so a full strip down could well be on the cards when I have time.

Regards

Keith

 

[Steve Maskery]

1mm is a huge amount out, let alone 4mm!
I really suggest you sort that out, it's not safe.
S

 

[kmp]

Thanks Steve, will have a better investigation tomorrow and see if I can find the problem. I was thinking that by having the rear locking pad much closer to the rear rail when unlocked it would minimize the tendency to twist when moving the fence. I will also order a new rear pad as it looks fairly worn and that may be stopping any squaring up as it is locked. This really is turning out to be a good (or bad) lesson in buying secondhand without first having a really good look.

By the way, DVD arrived today terrific service and great information, highly recommended thank you.

Keith

 

[kmp]

Rog,

Have sent you a PM.

Keith

 

[rdesign]

yes the fence works just cant nudge it back a mm or two and lock down have to push tight to fence and lock down prefere the lever to do everything. when i get time will change mine but it works for now.

what do you mean about the arbor ? haven't inspected mine two closely. do u mean movement with float?

 

[kmp]

Richard, yes, if I grab the end of the arbor and push in and out I get a little movement (end float). I can also feel this if I grab the blade close to the centre and push side to side. Not a great deal, maybe 0.2mm or so but don't think it should be there.