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Chrisnw

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Hello,

I'll be the first to admit that neither the turning nor the photgraphy are up to much but I have just completed my first pen and thought I'd share it.

It's quite obvious that i haven't turned down the diameter of the blank sufficiently but I underestimated how much would have been removed by sanding. Never mind - it's an excuse to have another bash at it! :) There is also a band at the back end of the first half that is a lighter colour - I cannot work out why this haappened. it has got to have been during the sanding or polishing but i can't rememebr do anything differntly on that portion???

Wood is some left over bits of oak, with friction polish finish.

Chris
 

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Good going for a first Chris, at least there is a flow to the form and not an excessive wasp waist.
I've found that if you can get your mandrel spacers/collars to be a good match for the pen components and as long as you get a reasonable finish with your turning then little 'spare' is needed for sanding, and with care and using the finer grits you can sand down to the bushings without undue wear of the bushing. Just watch you don't transfer metal dust onto the wood.
 
Good job, Chris =D>

IMHO, form ( or shape, or whatever you want to call it), is a matter of preference for the recipient, and if you are happy with it, then that is all that matters.
You have identified where you could improve by turning down the blank more at the waist, and Chas has given you some very sound advice with regard to the mandrel spacers and bushings.

Again, IMHO, where a project can fall flat is on the finishing. Rather than looking as if it has been turned with a blunt surform, a clean, smooth finish will always enhance the finished product. Again, you appear to have achieved this well.

Don't worry about the photography, there is plenty of room with me on the naughty step where we can discuss the finer intricacies of that hobby!! :lol:

Hope that helps,

Malc :)
 
For a first attempt that's cracking. The first one I made, I forgot to put the clip in place which made for an oddly straight pen.

For wood pens I always try and finish with a razor sharp skew, then I can start my sanding at 240 minimum, that way I know I'll only be removing a very fine layer in the end.

Also have a look at some other finishes, for wood I've not really found anything that beats Boiled linseed oil and superglue (aka BLO/CA) for long wearing. Waxes and the like let the dirt into the wood very quickly in normal use.

Enjoy the mandrel, I think you'll find pen turning quite rewarding.

Paul
 
Sorry but embellishing a 7mm pen kit with bulges is making mutton look like lamb.

The golden rule is Keep It Simple and a 7mm pen should, in my humble opinion, not try and be something it is not.
 
a couple of (possibly obvious) points on top af all the above (and your own assessment!)

1. the wood has a lot to do with how lose to the final dimensions you 'cut'; the feedback you get when turning will help you gauge how close to the bush you cut.
2. quite frankly if you are cutting on a bevel rather than scrapping your sanding should be 400, or finer, to take advantage of the cut quality; but however you get there the finish is always fun!
3. for me the jury is out on sanding sealer/friction polish v l oil and ca (superglue). both give a good finish if well done.
4. as for photography - I think your second image posted shows the wood in a great 'light' :)

On balance I agree with myturn's observation re slimline pens - I have had all sorts of bulges on some but simplicity and precision look the best.
 
For some folks with less than pristine young hands ease of use out ways aesthetics, horses for coarses as they say, offer a selection of straight and shaped slimlines to a group of folks in my age group and at least 50% will choose the slight increase in diameter at the grip.
 
Many thanks for the comments and suggestions.

I'm glad I learnt the process and most importantly, the Wife liked it! She's asked for me to make a true slimline one as she reckons it'll fit her hands better . Siince she's a sports teacher I'm pretty sure she has a stash of BLO somewhere for rounders bats which I might have to pinch then to finish it. I think I might turn a couple of shafts to test the finish for future reference. I am limited to abrasives though as I've only got some 400 grit for the time being.

Looking forward to some more practice tomorrow.

Cheers, Chris
 
Hi Chris, I like that and I must admit that it has a little of the shape that I prefere with the bulge at the 'sharp end' which I find more comfortable because of the arthritis in my hands.

Are you sure the wood is oak? It looks VERY much like beech to me? I turned a couple oof beech pens today and a fair number before and that is what it looks like..

I normally turn mine from the square blank to shape with a 1" oval skew and it then just needs the minimal of sanding, quite often starting with 280 or 320, then 400, 0000wire wool and buffed with shavings before celulose sanding sealer, denibbed, and a couple of coats of melamine laqure. I then buff them on my Beal system before assembly.

The only time that I have not put the clip on is on a couple of click pencils and I noe have a special bolt with a ground down head that just fits the brass tube. I carefully clamp the offending barrel in my soft faced vise and gentle BELT the end out! It has worked so far and then I refit it complete with the clip :oops: :oops: :oops:
 
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