First ever project - Plywood boxes WIP

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jadboog

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Hi all, I am coming towards the end of my house renovation and finally have a room to use as an impromptu workshop. I’ve been reading about woodworking for six months and am pleased I can now finally get down to my first ever project! Would love some feedback on methods / techniques and other ideas as I’ve never done any woodwork before.

Needing somewhere to store the tools I’ve collected for the renovation I thought some big plywood storage boxes would be ideal, and I decided to make them with box joints so I can practice using a hand saw.
Here’s the WIP so far:

Tools – Not many woodworking specific ones, but they are what I’ve picked up along the way. Will be building up woodworking kit over the next few months – recommendations welcome:

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My cheap workbench (workbench project on the cards soon!) and macallister sliding mitre saw – only ever used it for rough cuts on site before, so will be good to test it on a project requiring a little more accuracy:

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Oops, almost forgot, picked a coping saw up for skirting and thought I would try it to cut the box joints:

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Wood – bought 12mm hardwood veneered ply from my timber merchant and asked them to rip it into four 1’ wide planks (seemed like a nice round split of a standard 8’x4’ board). I’m planning to make around 5 boxes 2’x1’x1’ to fit my understairs shelves. Also got some hardwood cut for the bottoms of the boxes:

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Measuring and cutting - Despite making sure the blades were straight in the jigsaw, the blades seemed to bend in the wood as I was cutting meaning I couldn’t get the edge of the cuts square – is this just because I’m using a cheap jigsaw? (Macallister). So, I thought I’d try my cutting on my chopsaw.

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I used the first cut board (1’x1’) to measure and mark the second:

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Despite my best efforts, it was difficult to get the chopsaw cut perfectly straight I aligned the blade all along the pencil line of each cut first, but I still struggled to get square. So, once the sides were cut to rough size, I trimmed two together to ensure lengths matched up:

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Three boxes cut to size:

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Routing channels for box bottoms - To get some practice using a router for the first time I decided to cut channels for the hardboard bottoms to sit in:

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Each time, I struggled at the edged to get it straight due to the gap in the guard. I worked out aftertwards that I could solve this easily by plunging a little further in rather than starting from the outside edge!

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Solution (and comes in handy for avoiding exposed channels on edge of box joints):

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I used a chisel to square up the edges of the channels. I also did a bigger run for a sliding shelf on one of the boxes:

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The routing caused some nice smoke, and some of the sawdust nearly caught – is this normal? Also ended up splitting the veneer on one of the runs, which I fixed with some glue:

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Marking and cutting the joints - After having a few pretty disastrous test runs with cutting the box joints, I decided to match the edges and draw the fingers across the insides of both adjoining boards at the same time:

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When the timber yard ripped the boards for me they made a hell of a mess with tear-out, which I didn’t notice until I got home. Tried to tidy up with a Stanley knife, and used the torn sides as the insides so they won’t be as prominent:

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To try and save some time, I decided to cut the two associated edges at the same time, making sure I clearly marked which fingers I needed to remove. Placed them back to back to try and avoid tearout on the good sides of the boards:

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I’ve since found that a tenon saw might not be the best for this job (dovetail saw or gent’s saw better?), but it’s what I had in my kit already:

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I also found that the saw got stuck a fair bit and a lot of residue (ply glue?) built up along the blade making the matter worse. I read that a candle might help – it worked a treat:

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Breaktime! Having spent six hours thus far setting up and cutting, someone was nagging for attention:

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Handles - I used a hole cutter and jigsaw to cut the handles and tried a bit of freehand routing with a roundover bit to soften the edges. I was quite pleased for a first attempt!

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Back to the box joints - Being cack-handed, I found this the trickiest bit! I first drilled holes so I could get the coping saw blade in between the joints:

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Chocks away:

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Tidying up – disappointingly, I struggled to keep the cuts straight (am I using the saw correctly?), so I chiselled out and sanded each edge, which took a while, but was more satisfying:

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I found cutting with the chisel harder here because of the layers of ply:

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Dry Assembly – it was definitely worth trying it all together first, made some final tweaks and checked everything before gluing:

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Final Assembly – I used wood glue liberally due to some meaty gaps, and held clamped it all together using a box clamp. I went around afterwards with a wet rag to clean off the squeeze-out before glue dried.

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And that’s it! Currently waiting for the glue to dry (will sleep in between!). Will post more photos when the clamps are off – any suggestions for stain / wax / finish?

Not overly happy with some of the gaps in the joints, but practice makes perfect!
 
Cheers for that, it's nice to see that other people here are just starting out in the land of woodworking projects :)

You've encountered many of the same problems I have and I still think most of it is practise and getting to know your new tools. Routing is still one of those things I really enjoy but often get bitten by!

I still can't believe you got a room in the house to work in :)

Right that's it, back to the garage for me!
 
Don't go back to where ever you got the ply cut, what did they use an axe?

You are attempting a very difficult task as a first project. Getting every finger of a box joint true and straight is not an easy task with a hand saw.

I worry about the strength of hardboard for the box bottom if they are to hold heavy tools.

Keep going and show the results.

Regards

Mick
 
Great first project thread. I like the "warts-'n-all" honest pictures. as chingerspy said - it's nice to see others just starting out. It's easy to read other project threads on this site and feel daunted by the level of quality in some of the stuff that these guys turn out. I know it scares me :shock: :)

Keep at it mate. You've made a great start. I've got over 100 posts now and I've still not made any sawdust. Ask lots of questions. The guys here are great at giving honest replies 8)

I'm looking forward to seeing the finished piece!
Paul
 
Good to see your first project is under way. :)

With regards to your router problem; most fences will have a couple of holes in the face that'll allow you to attach a longer strip of timber. :wink:
 
I'm no expert on these things but I would have thought that by putting the joint to be clamped together and cutting the edges of the fingers you're setting yourself up to have some gaps between the figures - 0.5 of the saw's kerf? Normally you have to saw up to the line (on the waste side) - by doing it your way aren't you having to split the line and hence remove too much material from the remaining finger?

Could be very wrong mind you!

Miles
 
Well done!
Do'in it is by far the best way to learn.
Jigsaw cuts work best if you don't push the cut, take it easy! Watch the blade actually doing the cut, you should be able to get good acuraccy.
Long routed slots like that work better if you clamp a long rail to the workpiece, which overhangs each end, and run the router base against it.

Keep at it

HTH xy
 
miles_hot":2or5bxmd said:
I'm no expert on these things but I would have thought that by putting the joint to be clamped together and cutting the edges of the fingers you're setting yourself up to have some gaps between the figures - 0.5 of the saw's kerf? Normally you have to saw up to the line (on the waste side) - by doing it your way aren't you having to split the line and hence remove too much material from the remaining finger?

Could be very wrong mind you!

Miles
Miles is correct here. If sawing this sort of thing by hand with a tenon saw, off-set each pair by the thickness of the blade. Thus the rear piece of wood is shunted sideways by the thickness of the saw blade so that you're always sawing in waste wood...in theory :wink: your joints should be tight.
Good effort btw and a decent sequence of 'warts and all' pics. Well done - Rob
 
I suggest you learn to use your router for trimming an edge. Basically, you just clamp a straight edge to your workpiece and then run the router base along it with a straight bit in the chuck.

You can use this method for squaring the ends of boards - very useful when you have no table saw, (or an inaccurate mitre saw). Because router bases are not always perfectly made, you need to mark the base with a magic marker to help ensure that you keep the same part of the base against the straightedge whilst using this method. You need to cut close enough to the line with your rough sawing technique so as to leave not more than about 3 to 4 mm of waste - the less the better.

You also need an accurate square for largish workpieces to mark the lines you register against. These are pretty easy to make if you can plane a straight edge (for the tee piece and the leg.)

The "Clamp 'n Guide" type things are good for the straight edge to use with this method. I did it this way for a couple of years before I bought my first machine saw (a Radial Arm saw).
 
jadboog, just a few pointers, in the order of your pics.

As many have pointed out ply is not the best material to use if you want to practice box joints. Pine, although not good either, is better to practice with.

You cant get four 1ft wide pieces out of an 8 x4 sheet because you have to allow for the saw kerf and any damage to the edges, allow 1/4" on each piece.

As others have said a jigsaw is not the best to cut straight lines, and neither is a chop saw. Invest in a circular saw and make a cutting jig, also use your router with a straight edge to trim to size.

Add a longer fence to your router, this will stop the edge problem. Don't try to cut the slot to the full depth in one go, that's what caused the burning and your inability to cut straight, no more than 1/8" at a time.

Cutting through the plys demands a super sharp chisel if you want it to be clean. Cut from both side to avoid breakout.

Marking out both pieces together was correct, but not cutting together. Cut separately and stay on the waste side of the line.
When cutting holes use a scrap backing board.

Having made the first finger hole use it as a jig with a bearing guided trim bit to produce the rest.

You don't need a drill hole for the coping saw, just cut a curve into one corner and then flat across the bottom.

Hope this helps.
 
Wow! Thanks for all the great tips everyone, I will definitely invest in a circular saw and fence, and I have definitely learned to cut the waste side of lines in future!

Thanks for the positive comments about the 'warts and all' photos - its great to get support as a beginner - in a similar vein, here are some updates:

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After the glue up I was almost shocked at some of the gaps and overcuts, but this has been a great way to learn:

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I also added a sliding screwdriver / chisel holder shelf to one of them, which I'm really pleased with:

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Any thoughts on finishing? I was going to use some beeswax as it is what I have here, but am open to suggestions.

James.
 
OPJ":2p6j2227 said:
With regards to your router problem; most fences will have a couple of holes in the face that'll allow you to attach a longer strip of timber. :wink:

Thanks Olly, I installed a small one for now to see how it works - looks the problem is solved!

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This reminds me very much of my first beginnings, my first project was with pre cut materials that I simply had to rebate into the sides and screw a back onto, and I had a router and a few old chisels. Give it 3 years an you'll have a giant tool collection!
 
Great, will try the poly varnish, thanks.

Luckily, my wife has given me the largest bedroom in the house for small-scale woodshop / study. Going to be using mainly handtools to start, and really want to try building my own workbench and get into scroll sawing.

Will post a workshop plan after I've drawn it up.
 
For finish you could do worse than a quick drying floor varnish - I used one of the main brands on my kitchen worktop several years ago and it has stood up to all the abuse. It is easy to apply and very quick too....If iI recall an hour between coats.
 
Not sure about the sliding chisel shelf personally. Either the super sharp edges are going to be damaged by things underneath, or you are going to be damaged retrieving things rattling around at the pionty end.

Meanwhile the rest is a good start to a fascinating hobby.

HTH

xy
 
Looking good.

The gaps are just where you cut both parts together.

They joints look fairly straight and true so a good start.

A bit of filler, or wood glue mixed with saw dust and plane the joint and you would not notice the small gaps.

I agree about the sliding shelf. I would box it in to protect your hands and the chisels.

Mick
 
Looks like a really good effort to me. I was a bit worried that the first photo of workshop equipment didn't include a kettle & mug, but I assume they're hiding somewhere! :wink:
 
If it was me I'd filller all those gaps, give it a real good sanding and give it a painted finish. Will hide any errors and will be good practise for later projects.
 

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