Finishing MDF Kitchen doors

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duotwr

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Hi

I'm in the process of building some prototype kitchen cabinet doors - I'm fairly much a beginner, and I'm struggling to get a decent finish. The doors are simple shaker style, which I want to finish in cream (not too glossy).

My initial approach has been two coats of general purpose water based primer, then two coats of acrylic eggshell. From lots of searching on the forum this is appears to be one of the many approaches used!

I've been applying both primer and topcoat with a foam roller- and my first attempt had the classic orange peel effect. While not awful, I'd like to improve it a bit. Am currently trying to lay off the paint with a brush, but given how quickly the paint seems to start drying I'm still left with fairly clear brush strokes.

Can anybody suggest any better approaches. Should I just buy some oil-based paint and use this (I'm in no terrible rush, so can cope with long drying times) and if so could I still apply this over the water based primer? Should I thin the eggshell - or look at using Floetrol or something?

Any other suggestions much appreciated (and apologies for contributing yet another MDF/paint thread)

Keith
 
Oil based paints are more durable and would be preferable for a kitchen i would try a standard head not a foam head on the riller this should improve the finish :)
 
chrs_666":2flxvklh said:
Oil based paints are more durable and would be preferable for a kitchen i would try a standard head not a foam head on the riller this should improve the finish :)

i meant roller
 
Thanks for the quick reply. I had bought Leyland Trade eggshell - presumably now I should consider buying some Satinwood (as mentioned, I don't want anything too glossy). I've got some standard 4" roller heads which I can use.

Having a quick look at the Leyland site this suggests that their Satinwood is 'self-undercoating' - but I presume I can, and should, still use the acrylic primer?

While I'm on - one other quick finishing question. In what order is it best to paint sections of the door - should I try to do the edges as a separate step to painting the faces? Or is it realistic to paint one face and four edges in one go, before then doing the other face later?

Thanks

Keith
 
I have to paint mdf all the time, the way I do it is

1st. Apply an acrylic primer, giving the porous mdf edges 2nd coat while still wet from first coat.
2nd. This is the most important step for a good finish, you have to rub down very well I use 180 grit so start with and fleece
abrasive pads for any mouldings etc..
3rd. Apply Oil Based Undercoat
4th. Rub down again this time I use 240grit some times I rub two pieces together to make it finer.
5th. Top coat with Oil Based Eggshell

I use a Brush and High density foam rollers, to avoid the orange peel effect you need to have just the right amount of paint, not too little so your squeezing the roller and not too much so its sliding about, I can usually hear when I the right amount, sounds abit like unsticking a roll of tape, and before you start rolling get all the air out of the roller by loading it with paint, you can submerge and squeeze it in the paint until all the bubbles come out.

Hope that helps
 
duotwr":jcekb6d4 said:
While I'm on - one other quick finishing question. In what order is it best to paint sections of the door - should I try to do the edges as a separate step to painting the faces? Or is it realistic to paint one face and four edges in one go, before then doing the other face later?

Thanks

Keith

Start with the edges, then lie it flat and paint the front, then rest the edge that wont be seen on 2 small bits of beading or something and hold the top whilst painting the back, then lean one corner against a wall at 45 degrees, and touch up the bits you had to touch, then paint the next one and lean it against the first one and so on.
 
This is what I love about this forum - the quality and detail in some of the answers!

I'll have a think about this, and do some experimentation, and let you know how I get on. Thanks for your time.

Keith
 
Keith
I add floetrol to water based it behaves more like an oil paint then. lay off with a synthetic brush purdy/omega etc and work fast
(I quizzed some top painters for tips and they said helpful stuff like skill and practice)
Matt
 
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