face dust filters

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david123

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Can anybody recommend one that has a full visor and a battery operated fan to keep the visor free from condensation? It would also be nice if it has a filter that is capable of removing the toxic smell from paints (I always get a headache when painting)

I know they are expensive, but, what cost would it be to have health problems? The cheap ones with elastic bands never seem to work very well for me.

Thanks in advance
 
As far as I've read on these, the Trend Airshield Pro is good.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H7thRSaiXyE review
http://www.axminster.co.uk/trend-trend-airshield-pro-prod719697/

However comments have been made that they are a bit top heavy on the head because of the power system.

I eventually went with an airfed system, because I have a compressor, for bigger longer jobs (sandblasting too) and a Vitrex 3/4 mask for smaller quick jobs, I found this one (with P3 filters) to be very effective at removing all fumes from solvent based paints and finishes - but I would use the airfed system if I was to spray 2pack or nitrocellulose paints as they are very toxic.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/...act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A19V3JSEZ1HWPK

hope that helps.
 
Hi Dave, I have the 3M dustmaster with p2 filters and a layer for trapping odours. Its good for dusty work but the odour portion of the filters does not work very well for paints, I also have a phantom shield which is powered and you can get proper p3 filters for. only problem I have found is that its uncomfortable after awhile. You end up with a red ring around your face. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Phantom-PPR20 ... 2a314cade0
Mark
 
Thanks for that Wallace.

having spent some time on the net and here researching, I think I will be opting for the Trend Airshield, now I just need to find the best deal. Expensive is woodworking #-o
 
I have both the airshield pro for nasty stuff where there's a risk of being hit also and then the 3M 7502 half mask with P3 particulate filters ( in addition to DX). The Trend shield works well for filtering but ignore their promotional blurb about being comfortable to wear all day...poppy cock! The face shield quickly slips down and makes contact with your nose which is incredibly annoying. For most jobs I wear the 3M half masks which are brilliantly made and quite the most comfortable one I've used. The disposable ones are useless because they don't make a seal around the face.
 
Hi Bob
Thanks for that, I have had a look at the half mask and am a bit mystified about the P3 particulate filters. in the blurb I read

"For use in concentrations of particulates upto 20x Workplace Exposure Limit (WEL) when fitted to a 3M half mask or up to 40x WEL when fitted to a 3M full face mask."

Does that mean it is only half as effective as the full face mask? gets more complicated by the minute :( lol, also it seems that the half mask will allow me to use filters that will get rid of paint odorous that always give me a headache, and will allow me to use my own ear defenders . perhaps I should go for both
 
I really sympathise.....the technical gobbledygook on dust filters has reached a ludicrous level. To the point where non professionals who don't have a health and safety officer are at a loss to decipher what the dam thing does?

As it happens I went to the screwfix show in Farnbro yesterday and 3M had a stand so I went and got the full run down on the whole range. For once I actually understood it!!

Basically for particles only there are three levels of protection...P1 to P3 where P3 protects against the finest particles (power sanding on a lathe and sanding MDF type operations) and P1 is the least. Each level has a range of micron diameters that it will trap which I cant remember off the top of my head but obviously is documented in the specs. For practical purposes, I use P3 because my biggest hazard is power sanding turning bowls like Yew which is a pig to health.

The other consideration is the gases filters ie vapours, smells, paint etc. They can be bought separately (if you don't have any dust to worry about) or as a combination with a dust filter. The bayonet fitted little square add ons to the mask are removable and you fit the filters inside those baskets. They are a little heavy over time so what I've just bought is a set of P3 round filters which clip directly to the mask without the need for that bigger filter holding basket. It makes the mask much lighter and more comfortable and I have no requirement for the vapours filter.

I've had one or other of those 3M half masks for 20 years and I really get on with them for ease of use, comfort and effectiveness. I use the airshield pro when there is a risk of being hit in the face (as well as dust) so cutting operations on bandsaw and TS and also when I have an out of true blank on the lathe.

The 7500 range has three masks in it...small medium and large which are 7501, 02 and 03 respectively. I use the 7502
Hope that throws a little more light on the whole P3 thing which is hideously confusing and 3M should realise that normal people want to buy their products as well as manufacturers etc.
 
Bob
First of all let me take the time to thank you for explaining all that to me, it has given me a clearer understanding of what I require.

I think I will go along the same lines as you and buy both, that should give me all round protection.

Brilliant
 
No worries Dave....Just as a last aside...I upgraded my 3m mask from the 6500 range to the 7500 range recently and got it from Axminster after shopping around. They were one of the only suppliers I could find that also sold packs of 10 pairs of the P3 circular filters. Nearly everyone else seemed to be hell bent on selling you the combination vapour and dust filters (in the little basket) which were incredibly expensive. I think that's called an A2 filter or some such (again stupidly confusing to the layman).

I paid around £59 for 10 pairs of P3 dust only circular filters and £22 for the mask. Most other suppliers wanted about £50 just for one set of combination vapour/dust filter....ouch. So you're right...they're not cheap...but they do last a very very long time when not used at an industrial level.
 
Hi again Bob

Just ordered both the half mask, trend full face and the pack of 10 pairs of M3 filters from Axminster. Should be arriving on Tuesday.....Must find something to sand... =P~

Thank again you for all your help
 
After reading this i think Random Orbital Bob is hitting the right topic, but I want to emphasize that
1) DUST PROTECTION and
2) SOLVENT PROTECTION
are two totally DIFFERENT THINGS!

The P1-P3 rated filters are for DUST protection, i.e. they inhibit small, tiny and extremly tiny particles to enter the air the breathe. However, THEY DO NOTHING FOR THE SOLVENTS OR GASSES!
Any paint that has ANY kind of solvent in it requires ALSO GAS/SOLVENT protection! So are then the filters rated A1-A3 (at least for Scott Safety, I've not ye met any M-rated filters - I do know M-rater vacuum cleaners, but they are ONLY also rated for DUST, i.e. small particles).

If you do paint jobs, please get a combination filter - I'm using SCOTT as an example here;

https://www.scottsafety.com/en/emea/Pag ... on+Filters

but any band will do as long as it has the combination. Especially spray painting with solvent based paints is dangerous business, as you will have
1) both particle contamination in the form of micro small DRIED paint particles
2) gasses in the form of solvents that vaporized into the air.

The solvents used in paints are really toxins. Water based paints are actually NOT ANY BETTER - the stuff that makes the paint resists for example mold is pure poison. They however smell significantly less, so you are less likely to start feeling ill as quickly, but you are still in the danger zone - often without realising it. The nasty bit is that since it is diluted to water - it will enter your body VERY quickly, since your body is 75% water. So, even if you are using WATER based paints you should still use a combination filter! The whole business of spray painting is about atomization - making the paint as small as possible, so that it will enter the surface to be painted smoothly. Unfortunately - as by product you will contaminate the air.

More info on solvents from Wikipedia;

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Solvent

A lot of the stuff used for paints are really toxic compounds. Quote from wikipedia on the health section;

"General health hazards associated with solvent exposure include toxicity to the nervous system, reproductive damage, liver and kidney damage, respiratory impairment, cancer, and dermatitis.[13]"

(edit: spay -> spray)

Additional thing is the usage of Px rated filters with a small active carbon filter added to them, like AirAce. The active carbon in these filters is NOT sufficient vapor/solvent protection. They only remove some of the smell, nothing else. Since the smell works as an alarm indicator, you're actually worse off since you'l anyway inhale (at least some) of the vapours/solvents without realising it.
 
Random Orbital Bob":16tcq8m7 said:
Basically for particles only there are three levels of protection...P1 to P3 where P3 protects against the finest particles (power sanding on a lathe and sanding MDF type operations) and P1 is the least. Each level has a range of micron diameters that it will trap which I cant remember off the top of my head but obviously is documented in the specs. For practical purposes, I use P3 because my biggest hazard is power sanding turning bowls like Yew which is a pig to health.

The other consideration is the gases filters ie vapours, smells, paint etc. They can be bought separately (if you don't have any dust to worry about) or as a combination with a dust filter.

Well...an interesting addition and thanks for that but I did make it abundantly clear that dust and vapour/gases are different (see the text quoted above). Helpful to expand on the vapours side though :)
 
Random Orbital Bob":2t07lf8s said:
Random Orbital Bob":2t07lf8s said:
Basically for particles only there are three levels of protection...P1 to P3 where P3 protects against the finest particles (power sanding on a lathe and sanding MDF type operations) and P1 is the least. Each level has a range of micron diameters that it will trap which I cant remember off the top of my head but obviously is documented in the specs. For practical purposes, I use P3 because my biggest hazard is power sanding turning bowls like Yew which is a pig to health.

The other consideration is the gases filters ie vapours, smells, paint etc. They can be bought separately (if you don't have any dust to worry about) or as a combination with a dust filter.

Well...an interesting addition and thanks for that but I did make it abundantly clear that dust and vapour/gases are different (see the text quoted above). Helpful to expand on the vapours side though :)

Rigth you are, on 2nd reading it's very clear.
 
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