Exterior Door Advice please
- Thread starter Mannyroad
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Jacob
New Luddism. Awake and resist!
I just had a quick look at your illustration from Porter & Tooke's book Carpentry & Joinery. Do I detect a re-enforcing metal bar in the picture above? Either way it's a very dubious and unusual door and I doubt many people have ever made one like it - unless they made the mistake of reading this book first!
Jacob":y7srs5ar said:
The picture above the ones I included is associated with a double margin door. The metal reinforcing strip, as I understand it, is normal practice for such a door type, strengthening the joint between the two door leaves. The book is part of a series of books which are considered authorative and practical guides for students doing their CITB/C&G/NVQ & IOC courses. Personally I've always found it to be very useful.
Ha d an idea today. I can simply put a palnt on the inside of the door frame to allow me to use a thicker door, say 56mm. Don't know why it didn't occur to me before.
Anyway, this sorts my issues out, in that I can make a standard construction door with 25 wide brace and mi-rail and muntins/framing to vision panel. I can also bring my top rail & stiles down to 56x95, my bot. rail to 56 x 145 and groove the stiles and top rail, as suggested, to take the tongues of the matchboarding. No ply or other odd construction needed.
Last question (bar two): should I simply edge nail all the battens in place, i.e no gluing at all of these into the frame? I guess you're going to say yes. Just thought I'd check to be sure.
Thanks everyone for your inputs; much appreciated.
PS: Is Idigbo considered a good choice for an external front door? A builder friend said it is quite soft. I'd prefer oak but it's going to cost a lot. Same builder also said not to bother grooving stiles and top rail, just rebate and face fix the matchboarding, but I reckon this will end up leaving gaps if the battens shrink a bit. Am I right here?
Anyway, this sorts my issues out, in that I can make a standard construction door with 25 wide brace and mi-rail and muntins/framing to vision panel. I can also bring my top rail & stiles down to 56x95, my bot. rail to 56 x 145 and groove the stiles and top rail, as suggested, to take the tongues of the matchboarding. No ply or other odd construction needed.
Last question (bar two): should I simply edge nail all the battens in place, i.e no gluing at all of these into the frame? I guess you're going to say yes. Just thought I'd check to be sure.
Thanks everyone for your inputs; much appreciated.
PS: Is Idigbo considered a good choice for an external front door? A builder friend said it is quite soft. I'd prefer oak but it's going to cost a lot. Same builder also said not to bother grooving stiles and top rail, just rebate and face fix the matchboarding, but I reckon this will end up leaving gaps if the battens shrink a bit. Am I right here?
RobinBHM
Established Member
Mannyroad":1ze5s95a said:
Ive done this quite a few times, it works well, although can require quite a bit of making good, filling in hinge holes etc. You may find the hinge screws end up going down the joint so its best to glue and screw well at these points.
Idigbo.....I wouldnt say it is soft as such. It can be a heavy dense timber, but has a poor grain structure so it is doesnt take a screw very well and isnt great to mortice -tends to clog the chisel. End grain has to be very well sealed or there is likely to be extractive exudation which can stain paint and brickwork. I do know one very large joinery manufacturer that uses Idigbo so it must be ok to use (although I believe they now use red grandis for doors). It has an open grain so is often used as a cheaper alternative to oak.
