Edge jointing 6ftx10"x2" walnut

[YorkshireMartin]

Hi guys,

Haven't posted here in ages as work and family have kept me away from all things wood. Sorry to say that my first post back is a question rather than an answer.

Its just really to check my thinking.

These slabs are very large and cumbersome. They are for a table top. They have been through the planer and are pretty square and flat. Due to size/weight, accurately edge jointing them on my 10" planer really isn't an option (for my skill level at least). So I was thinking I'd use the track saw to do this. Once it's calibrated, can anyone forsee any issues with this method?

I haven't been in a woodworking mindset for a while, so just trying to ease myself back in.

Cheers,

Martin

 

[paulrockliffe]

I would think you could do a better with a router than a tracksaw, if you set it up right. If you set adjacent pieces next to each other and do the two edges off the same reference you should be able to joint them perfectly.

 

[woodbrains]

Hello,

Do you have a rip blade in your tracksaw and preferably a riving knife too? I think you could do it and then follow with a nice handplane. That said, those boards aren't massive, you should be able to plane them on the surface planer, perhaps with some roller supports. Don't talk yourself out of doing something before you try. At least do a dry run in the planer with the power off. I'd bet you can do it!

Mike.

 

[Nelsun]

Are you thinking to kerf cut them? As in secure them (hot glue works wonders) side by side and run the track saw along the join line? It's worked a treat for me so far.

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

 

[YorkshireMartin]

Are you thinking to kerf cut them? As in secure them (hot glue works wonders) side by side and run the track saw along the join line? It's worked a treat for me so far.

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

Yes, thats the one.

 

[YorkshireMartin]

I would think you could do a better with a router than a tracksaw, if you set it up right. If you set adjacent pieces next to each other and do the two edges off the same reference you should be able to joint them perfectly.

Interesting idea, similar concept.

 

[paulrockliffe]

With the router you would be doing a climb cut on one side if you do it the easy way, off one guide. Might be fine on a jointed edge, depends on the wood and what glue you're using, but to avoid the climb cut you would setup a second guide referenced off the first guide.

 

[transatlantic]

Seemed to work good enough for this guy!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yRMkCawvSqk

 

[memzey]

I think this is the type of job the #7 bench plane was invented for. I'd have a go using one of those first before trying the other techniques mentioned here.

 

[MusicMan]

Especially using your bench (if long enough) as a shooting board, then at least you don't have to worry about the edge staying square.

 

[thetyreman]

yes no7 or no8 plane is perfect for this, agree with memzey

 

[transatlantic]

So why would the plane be easier for this? (assuming he actually has a No.7 plane)

Each board is two inches thick, so he can't plane both boards at the same time and would have to make sure he gets it dead on accurate square for them to line up. Where as with the saw, there is no thinking involved, you cut both boards at the same time and as long as the tracks are straight, it'll be dead on.

 

[memzey]

You wouldn't need to plane them up together. Joint each edge individually with a little bit of spring if you so please. I think a 7 or 8 would be great for this job.

FWIW I also think you could joint them on a planer thicknesser but it would somewhat depend on the stability and length of tables of the machine in question. I'm not familiar with OP's machine but I have jointed boards of similar length on my Sedgwick MB using adjustable roller stands to provide auxiliary support.

 

[YorkshireMartin]

I dont yet own a no.7. It's on my list but whats stopped me buying one is that I work on an MFT and also, I'm not set up to sharpen blades over 2" width at the moment. I have borderline erotic dreams of a cabinet full of planes, all shapes and sizes, but for now, I have to make do, space is so limited. I feel the MFT doesn't really handle planing all that well, theres just too much lateral movement from it and whilst I can just about manage to get decent results from my bevel up on smaller stock, its still a faff.

I jointed it using the TS55 as originally planned. They had come off the planer (a sedgwick PT) pretty square. Enough so that I only had to make a single pass with the track saw to joint them. They seem pretty good as with a little squeeze I can make the hairline disappear. Bit of tearout on the later ones, might be time to send the blade off for sharpening and fit a new one as I've never seen tearout from the TS55 before. No biggie, the joints are going to have a micro chamfer on them anyway.

I'll be using domino's to arrange them and currently toying with ideas for domino size. I'm wondering if I use the 14x140mm domino's, can I get away without using cauls on the glue up......is it worth the risk...hmm

Appreciate everyone taking the time to help. I learn something from every reply.

 

[YorkshireMartin]

Joint each edge individually with a little bit of spring if you so please.

Could you clarify what you mean for me please memzey?

 

[woodbrains]

Hello,

Spring is effected by planing the boards ever so slightly hollow along the length. The cramps used will pull the gap together, the sprung joint puts extra pressure along the length. The purpose of doing so is to use less cramps, usually because too few are available to do the job if the boards are jointed dead true. If you have enough cramps and I would say you'll need enough to space them about 12 inches or so apart, then I would just plane the joints dead true. If you are cramp shy, then you'll have to spring the joint.

Incidentally, by the look of the photos of the track saw cut boards, I would definitely show them the plane. You will get the joint invisible that way. Domino's are not necessary and might make clamp up difficult unless you have plenty of them.

Mike.

 

[memzey]

^ What he said basically, although some will argue that there is more to springing a joint than saving cramps. Also agree that those edges could do with a touch up from a plane but I think it depends on what you're happy with. If it's for a table top then I might suggest it's worth the extra effort as you'll spend quite some time at the table and your eye will forever be drawn towards that joint line!

 

[YorkshireMartin]

^ What he said basically, although some will argue that there is more to springing a joint than saving cramps. Also agree that those edges could do with a touch up from a plane but I think it depends on what you're happy with. If it's for a table top then I might suggest it's worth the extra effort as you'll spend quite some time at the table and your eye will forever be drawn towards that joint line!

I'll do a dry assembly next week...I am hoping the lines will disappear when its clamped...if the gods will it :lol:

 

[YorkshireMartin]

Reporting back gents.

I did a touch up job with the plane and I think its improved things a little but we're still not perfect unfortunately. Theres still an indication of tearout but I expected that. It's very slight and I'm wondering if I can fill it somehow or if I should just sand the top back about a thou and let it be.

I'm just not sure whats realistic given my skill level. I'm trying to attain perfection but lack the knowledge and experience. This is my first go at larger scale furniture.

That said...how bad/good is it? I've no real benchmark to compare to. I know we have some very skilled people on here. Would anyone mind giving their opinion?

Pictures below are of all three edge joints and an overall view from about 2ft away.

 

[transatlantic]

Looks pretty big - I doubt people would notice a slight dip if you gave it a good sanding in that area?

I'd avoid any kind of filler or sawdust mix, even if you get it to look ok now, chances are it won't colour like the rest of the piece over time.