Dust Collector Remote Switch for 16A Extractor

[Sawdust=manglitter]

Hi All, this is my first post on here so forgive me for sounding like a noob!

I have an Axminster T-2000CK-200H Cyclone Extractor in my workshop (which i'm so pleased with!!), but it is getting annoying having to go back and forth to turn the extractor on and off... yes, i am lazy! But the extractor requires a 16A socket and i can't for the life of me track down a remote control attachment for a 16A plug.

Has anyone else managed to overcome this problem without spending a small fortune on an auto extractor thingy? I would greatly appreciate some advice. Thanks in advance

 

[HOJ]

You will not be able to use one of the standard plug in wireless remotes for this, (it uses a DOL contactor) it will need a manual hardwired remote start/stop button.

Cheap to buy and only needs a light duty 3 core cable to connect + Earth

http://www.screwfix.com/p/hylec-2-way-stop-start-push-button/46101

 

[Sawdust=manglitter]

You will not be able to use one of the standard plug in wireless remotes for this, (it uses a DOL contactor) it will need a manual hardwired remote start/stop button.

Cheap to buy and only needs a light duty 3 core cable to connect + Earth

Thanks for the reply HOJ... so from what you said am i right in saying that because of the way my extractor switch works i wont be able to get a remote control device/switch? Which is something i feared might be the case :?

So is my only option to hard wire a switch at each of my machines?

 

[Bright-Spark]

You do not need to wire a switch at each machine if you have a DOL starter.

Get a infrared controlled plug set, you can then wire from a plug top to the coil in the starter assuming its a 230V coil.

You can then control the coil and therefore starter by remotely switching the plug on and off.

If you do a search, Bob 9fingers did a post with a wiring diagram on, it was along time ago though.

Bright-Spark

 

[Monkey Mark]

You do not need to wire a switch at each machine if you have a DOL starter.

Get a infrared controlled plug set, you can then wire from a plug top to the coil in the starter assuming its a 230V coil.

You can then control the coil and therefore starter by remotely switching the plug on and off.

If you do a search, Bob 9fingers did a post with a wiring diagram on, it was along time ago though.

Bright-Spark

Once the coil energises it self latches. You woukd need a way to break the circuit that would be a normally closed switch.

Id be interested to see how he overcame this.

 

[Monkey Mark]

If it's single phase, you could use a wireless control with a relay removing the DOL. You would lose overload protection though unless you include an overload protection unit (lower half of DOL starter).

 

[Sawdust=manglitter]

Thanks for the input guys... unfortunatly its all a little over my head/confidence level with electrics. Basic wiring i'm happy with, but tampering with components would make me a little twitchy.

 

[Bright-Spark]

This is a workable solution with a DOL but not as elegant as i recall Bob 9fingers being. The local stop start on the DOL will not work after this, control will be by the remote only

Spur a 13A single socket off your 16A machine supply in the same size cable, this will become the control supply. You can fuse down before the socket using a fused connection unit if you want, but as you are only connecting a coil this is not strictly necessary as the fuse in the outgoing plug top will limit the load on the socket and protect the control wiring.

You will need to remove any existing linking cables in the DOL to the coil, start and stop button that will latch the contractor in.

Then with a remote control socket in your new socket you can connect L and N from a plug top directly across the coil in the contractor (A1 and A2), but also connect the control circuit through the NC AUX terminals on the thermal overloads (Typically 95 and 96).

The contractor will become a remote control relay and the thermal overload protection retained.

NVR functionally will be provided as the remote control plug-in sockets loose their memory when the power goes off and do not re-energise on, although you should check this.

Finally add an local emergency stop in your control circuit on the DX to give local manual off control and a warning labeling about remote start and separate isolation of your control supply.

This will give you
Remote on/off control.
Local emergency manual off control
Retain motor thermal overload protection
Retain NVR (but double check the remote control plug-in socket you purchase)

Bright-Spark

 

[Monkey Mark]

I'm sorry but i feel i need to question the above, just for safety.

The remote switch would energise the coil which would then self latch. You would then have to switch the remote back off otherwise when you hit the stop the coil will get pulled straight back in as it's still energised. Unless you use a locking emergency stop, but same thing would happen when you unlock the stop.

You can buy cheap 230v remotes that can be set to be momentary so it would energise the coil, latch the dol then de energise the coil.

The difficult bit is finding a remote that can do NC for the stop, something im still searching for.

Edit: I've just worked out a way it could be done and probably for less than £20.
I'll have a check, a little play and reporr back. It may be of help to others.

 

[Markvk]

The machine is only 1.5kw thats no where near 16 amps! but the start up current will be high i spose.... looking at the machine this can be done fairly easily but requires some re wiring to make it work. This is how id do it:

disconnect the motor connection from the starter.
buy on of these:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/220-240V-Vo...qid=1456923410&sr=8-1&keywords=contactor+240v
mount the above in a plastic box
connect you motor to the load side of the above contactor
conect your 16A supply to the feed side of the above
connect a piece of 3 core (1.0mm or bigger) to A1/A2 on the contactor live to A1 N to A2
connect all your earths together with a connector
put a normal plug top (fused 3A) on the other end of the 3 core flex
plug the plugtop into a normal socket with one of those remote control switch thingys attached....
If you want an emergency stop the rob the one of the origional switch and put it in series on the 3 core suppling A1/A2

simples!

hope that helps.

Mark

 

[Bright-Spark]

Monkey mark I understand your concerns but the contractor will not self latch if the only thing connected across the coil is the supply from the plug-in socket, it will just operate as a contractor.

As I wrote the "The local stop start on the DOL will not work after this, control will be by the remote only"

All emergency stop button have mechanical latching and yes the machine will turn back on when you release the additional emergency stop if you have not turned the control circuit off using the remote.

Bright-spark

 

[Markvk]

in my opinion, Bright spark is correct in his statement.

 

[Monkey Mark]

in my opinion, Bright spark is correct in his statement.

I agree he is, i missed that bit. But i do think there is an easier way.

Using one of these http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B00YXN4 ... witch+220v
Piggy back main supply for power.
Use chanel one in momentary mode across the start coil.

Use a normally closed relay inline with the stop contacts and chanel 2 in momentary mode across the relays coil.

Stop and start from a remote. Existing controls still work. NVR function remains. No extra supply required. Can add additional remotes for flexibility.

 

[Bright-Spark]

Monkey mark

This would work, more elegant, more flexible, ordered!

Thank you

Bright Spark

 

[Monkey Mark]

Monkey mark

This would work, more elegant, more flexible, ordered!

Thank you

Bright Spark

Glad i could help. Been trying to think of a way around it for a while then today, after working on a motor swap and dol change at work, it just clicked.

 

[Bright-Spark]

Monkey Mark

Had a proper look at it now

Use channel 1 in N/O inching mode replaces momentary push on start switch
Use channel 2 in N/C inching mode replaces momentary push on stop switch

Wire channel 1 in parallel with existing start button and channel 2 in series the stop button, this will work exactly as a wired remote stop/start would.

No additional relay required.

Once again great find, thank you

Bright-Spark

 

[HOJ]

Monkey Mark

That's a game changer, well found, and for less than £8.00, needs someone to do a schematic? I get it others may not.

Only problem I would have is losing the remote...think I will stick with my hard wired system.

 

[Sawdust=manglitter]

That sounds like an excellent solution, and a plausible one for me to be able to do myself... given some direction! As HOJ suggested, would someone be so kind as to post a schematic that a layman like me could follow and understand?

Much appreciated!!

 

[Monkey Mark]

That sounds like an excellent solution, and a plausible one for me to be able to do myself... given some direction! As HOJ suggested, would someone be so kind as to post a schematic that a layman like me could follow and understand?

Much appreciated!!

I'll knock one up for you tonight.

 

[Monkey Mark]

Monkey Mark

Had a proper look at it now

Use channel 1 in N/O inching mode replaces momentary push on start switch
Use channel 2 in N/C inching mode replaces momentary push on stop switch

Wire channel 1 in parallel with existing start button and channel 2 in series the stop button, this will work exactly as a wired remote stop/start would.

No additional relay required.

Once again great find, thank you

Bright-Spark

Good shout with the inch button.
I hadn't looked at the details as I'm on my phone; if it hasva nc contact then that's even better.