Drill Chuck

[SteveF]

I have an old bench drill
the chuck is hard work to say the least

it is a jt33

i think the chuck key maybe wrong but i am thinking of going key-less
any idea how to remove it...there is a big nut above it ...but i cant see how to stop the quill turning if i find a spanner big enough

and more important can anyone recommend a key-less replacement ?

Steve

 

[wizard]

How are you going to get a keyless chuck to do up tight

 

[SteveF]

i manage on my cordless

am i missing something ?

Steve

 

[wizard]

With the force of a bench drill the drill bit will slip

 

[flh801978]

I have one on my lathe I have drilled 30 mm holes in steel with no slippage

 

[Hemsby]

I have an old bench drill
the chuck is hard work to say the least

it is a jt33

i think the chuck key maybe wrong but i am thinking of going key-less
any idea how to remove it...there is a big nut above it ...but i cant see how to stop the quill turning if i find a spanner big enough

and more important can anyone recommend a key-less replacement ?

Steve

Hi Steve,

Assuming there is no slot through the side of the quill for a drift to remove a morse taper with the drill chuck attached and it is a Jt33 chuck you will need wedges to remove the chuck, see this link

http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue ... ges-Drifts

Worth checking up inside the chuck to make sure there is not a screw securing the chuck to the shaft, it is unlikely on an old machine but worth a look.

For the correct wedges look immediately above the chuck and check the visible diameter of the drill spindle then select the wedges that have the appropriate larger gap.

When the wedges are inserted together between the top of the drill chuck and the housing of the drill give them a sharp tap with a pair of hammers (before doing this place a piece of wood on the drill table and lift the table close to the nose of the drill chuck) the chuck will pop off.

The choice of keyless chucks is considerable and can vary in price. When choosing one for a smaller type drill it is helpful to get one with a knurled ring at the top to enable you to use two hands tighten & loosen the chuck ( normally to loosen a drill from the chuck only a quick turn with one hand will be enough)

Regarding drill bits etc slipping, keyless chucks have been used in engineering machine shops for many years and are less likely to slip than a keyed chuck. After the inital hand tightening the jaw mechanism is designed to exert more jaw force on the drill shank as it starts drilling. They only tend to slip if a drill with a badly damaged shank is used.

Hope this helps,
Regards,
Keith

 

[MMUK]

With the force of a bench drill the drill bit will slip

I think a bench drill, being belt driven, is more likely to slip before the drill bit providing the chuck is tightened adequately. As long as it's a two piece sleeve chuck it should be fine.

 

[Hemsby]

With the force of a bench drill the drill bit will slip

I think a bench drill, being belt driven, is more likely to slip before the drill bit providing the chuck is tightened adequately. As long as it's a two piece sleeve chuck it should be fine.

Hi,

I can only speak from experience having been in the engineering for longer than I like to remember and owned an engineering company. All my Pillar drills were belt driven & were fitted with keyless chucks, the manual milling machines and lathes keyless chucks, automatic machines are a different thing.

Now I only have a home workshop. I changed my Pillar Drill chuck to keyless, I have had no problems.

If the belt on the machine is correctly tensioned and can drill holes with a keyed chuck the power drive of the machine has no bearing on a keyless chuck it is only the action of the chuck mechanism & jaws against the drill connecting with the workpiece. Providing the chuck is tightened by hand & the machine is only run in the forward mode there should be no problems.

Care must be taken if the machine does have a forward & reverse, if the reverse mode is selected before the spindle is stationary there is a risk that the keyless chuck will open & eject the drill.
Regards
Keith

 

[Grahamshed]

I have a large keyless chuck in my bench drill with no problems. They are sold by Axi in two versions ( something like 0 - 14 and 3 - 15 ) I think they were £40 odd

 

[SteveF]

That answered my question..thankyou all

I will get some wedges ordered...unless someone in kent has any I can borrow ?
an excuse to go to Axi as well

Steve

 

[Hemsby]

Hi Steve,

When fitting your new chuck, cleanliness of both the internal & external tapers is important, don't be tempted to oil the taper before fitting.

Have a piece of wood on the drill table open the new chuck so the jaws are not protruding and push the chuck on the spindle taper with a slight twisting motion, then wind the chuck down to touch the wood and apply slight downward pressure =D>

Some people like to give the end of the chuck a tap with a soft faced hammer (hammer) , not something I do but each to their own.

Good luck
Regards
Keith

 

[wizard]

http://www.jacobschuck.com/categories.asp?cid=16