Drawer base thickness - MDF/MFC etc

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matthew

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Am planning to make some drawer boxes for kitchen drawers - was going to use Blum Tandembox, but the tip-on version is quite pricey, so I figured I'd rustle them up myself to save a bit.

They are to go in 900mm wide cabinets - so the drawers will be approx 850x450mm. I'll make the sides from 15mm birch ply - and am just wondering as to the best material for the bases, for this size of drawer - the runners are rated at 30kg, and although I don't think I'll put that much in, it could still be quite heavy with some deep drawers full of plates.

I initially thought 9mm birch ply - but it's relatively expensive and won't be seen - the drawers will probably be lined - so was thinking of a cheaper alternative. Maybe 15mm MFC, but that's quite thick; perhaps 9mm MDF would do it? The bases will be rebated into all four sides, so will be well supported.

Anyone made anything similar, or have any suggestions? MTIA :)
 
I generally make my drawers using the Blum Metabox system. I recently bought some 500 deep "kits" 3 at 150mm high and 1 at 51mm high. They cost less than £35, which is not over the top and they do last very well. On smaller drawers I use 12mm birch ply for base and backs, bigger drawers you may want an 18mm base. I biscuit [no 0], glue and screw back to base. I finish them with a flood coat of acrylic satin floor varnish or similar and de-knib after 24hrs with a fine paper On the width to depth ratio you are looking at you may get a bit of racking/wobble.

Colin
 
matthew":e28t1kc2 said:
Am planning to make some drawer boxes for kitchen drawers - was going to use Blum Tandembox, but the tip-on version is quite pricey, so I figured I'd rustle them up myself to save a bit.

They are to go in 900mm wide cabinets - so the drawers will be approx 850x450mm. I'll make the sides from 15mm birch ply - and am just wondering as to the best material for the bases, for this size of drawer - the runners are rated at 30kg, and although I don't think I'll put that much in, it could still be quite heavy with some deep drawers full of plates.

I initially thought 9mm birch ply - but it's relatively expensive and won't be seen - the drawers will probably be lined - so was thinking of a cheaper alternative. Maybe 15mm MFC, but that's quite thick; perhaps 9mm MDF would do it? The bases will be rebated into all four sides, so will be well supported.

Anyone made anything similar, or have any suggestions? MTIA :)
I know it's unfashionable but what about wood?
8 to 10mm redwood would do. Much lighter, stiffer and more durable than mdf etc.
 
Many thanks for the replies, much appreciated.

eribaMotters":2j1h4e6c said:
I generally make my drawers using the Blum Metabox system. I recently bought some 500 deep "kits" 3 at 150mm high and 1 at 51mm high. They cost less than £35, which is not over the top and they do last very well. On smaller drawers I use 12mm birch ply for base and backs, bigger drawers you may want an 18mm base. I biscuit [no 0], glue and screw back to base. I finish them with a flood coat of acrylic satin floor varnish or similar and de-knib after 24hrs with a fine paper On the width to depth ratio you are looking at you may get a bit of racking/wobble.
Colin

The Metabox is quite reasonable - even the Tandembox isn't too bad. But because I'm also doing tip-on - the handleless touch-latch system - it requires a different version of Tandembox and works out at almost £90 per drawer, including base, back and synchronisers (for wide drawers). Over 7 drawers, that's quite expensive! Hence trying to make them a bit cheaper. Whereas just getting the gear is about £30 each, so figured I could possibly save £200-300 overall. I'd probably rebate rather than biscuit; which if I make a good fit, should keep it from racking, and the tip-on sync should hopefully keep them opening nicely.

Jacob":2j1h4e6c said:
I know it's unfashionable but what about wood?
8 to 10mm redwood would do. Much lighter, stiffer and more durable than mdf etc.

Good idea! Not sure if I've got any suitable wood around; if not it may end up not saving me any money :| But I've done it plenty of times before for 'proper' furniture, so shouldn't be too hard!

Thanks again for the food for thought...
 
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