Draught strip in sash meeting rails - methods?

[MrYorke]

Hi

I'm going to be draught proofing some sash windows. I'll be changing the parting and staff bead, no problem.

So what about the meeting rails. Some are tight, some have a 4-5mm gap.

Once a saw a set of old sashes already draught-proofed and 1 of the meeting rails had a channel routed out (I'm assuming route red out here) with the brush strip stuck in and it seemed to work very well.

Do you have a method of succusfelly running this groove? I have a router table, table saw and 1/4 & 1/2 inch routers.

What do you suggest please?

Thanks

 

[AndyT]

I did this to my windows to install draught strip that I bought from Reddiseals. I bought a 7mm cutter for my electric router which I just used hand held with its own fence. This worked well and I'm sure it was easier than trying to drag a heavy window about on a router table.

Being one who generally prefers hand tools I also tried using a little Record 043 plough plane - and it was just as good or even a bit quicker.


The draught strip sits in a plastic channel, like a mini T-track.

 

[MrYorke]

Cheers for that. It's what I thought. I use Reddiseals products so pretty familiar with them.

Think the difficult but will be sashes with horns, as they get in the way!

 

[RogerS]

Finish those bits off by hand?

 

[AndyT]

If horns would get in the way of the router fence you could clamp a board across and run your router along it. Or use one of those clamp-on guides.

It wasn't a problem for me as I only put the strip on the inner, lower sash, which doesn't have horns. That was enough for the gaps I had.

 

[Peter Sefton]

The first time I restored sash windows I draft proofed them too well and then suffered with condensation which can be problematic in older houses with single glazing.
Peter

 

[Drudgeon]

I have done this several times, the meeting rails are often angled, so I have previously made up a jig, simple piece of ply, with some angled wedges screwed underneath, that sit on the window styles, so when it's all in place, the ply looks like a continuation of the angle on the meeting rail, if that makes sense?

Also if the meeting rail section is raised then there should be no need to continue the rebate into the horns.

Another vote for Rediseals, just don't ever buy their own router cutters, they have an odd shank size if I remember rightly?

 

[MrYorke]

That's for all the tips. Yes I forgot you only need to draught proof 1 sash.....I'm tired and working too hard but can't complain really.

Yes the meeting rail has a raised an angled part so I'll a little more tricky.

I use Reddiseals SoF seal staff bead and probably going to start using there SoF seal for the parting bead although I'd say I'd need to router a small rebate along the sash stile for it to fit without causing too much friction and stopping the sash from moving. Currently I use the brush strip parting bead so it will help with future painting as well