Dovetail saws

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Phil Pascoe

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I can't afford a Skelton, unfortunately, so this'll have to do. 14tpi, was sort of hybrid tooth form - now rip. No set. No maker's name ... but what do you expect for three quid?

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It doesn't look very shiny Phil. What does it cut like ?

Coley

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
 
phil.p":2i2267so said:
Perfectly cleanly. I was a bit upset at the lack of shininess, but hey ho. First one I've sharpened for 48 years. :D
I was only joking about the shiny part [WINKING FACE] So long as it'll cut to a line.
The handle on your looks more comfy than my one
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Coley


Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
 
I'll have one just like it in a couple of weeks Phil! I bought the plate attached to a broken handle at a car boot a month or so ago, same steel back, no maker's mark and double screws through exactly the same handle type only mine was missing the bottom 3/4.

It was a snip at €1 so despite quite a bit of rust it was a no-brainer, and once I got it home and had a proper look at it I realised the teeth were actually in really good condition so I was chuffed. I'm going to file mine rip too.
 
Coley - I realised that from our previous conversations. It took me about 45 mins. to scrape the brown lacquer of the handle and sand all the square edges off with 80 grit. :lol:
 
phil.p":3gdcw1r5 said:
Coley - I realised that from our previous conversations. It took me about 45 mins. to scrape the brown lacquer of the handle and sand all the square edges off with 80 grit. :lol:
It's worked a charm ! I picked this one up a few months ago for a few pounds
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I had high expectations but unfortunately it's the teeth edge is really wibbly wobbly
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I took the brass back off and put it back on, but still the same. I can't being myself to chuck it just yet, is there anything else I could try ?

Coley

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You'll have to play a bit with the brass back, tap it on a bit deeper at thenose or the heel, or tap it upwards a bit, and look what happens. You dind't tap it all the way down on the sawplate? There usualy are a few mm between the deepest bottom of the brass back groove and the edge of the sawplate.
 
Coley, I've straightened a saw with a wavy tooth line very much like that without knowing what I was doing so it's definitely far from being in line to be chucked since you can find various tips on how to do the job properly online :)

If it did turn out to be unsalvageable at least use the steel for scrapers!
 
Corneel":2k9axf4y said:
You'll have to play a bit with the brass back, tap it on a bit deeper at thenose or the heel, or tap it upwards a bit, and look what happens. You dind't tap it all the way down on the sawplate? There usualy are a few mm between the deepest bottom of the brass back groove and the edge of the sawplate.
I think I just tapped the front and back after reading online that's how to straighten them.
 
ED65":1cnyg7d1 said:
Coley, I've straightened a saw with a wavy tooth line very much like that without knowing what I was doing so it's definitely far from being in line to be chucked since you can find various tips on how to do the job properly online :)

If it did turn out to be unsalvageable at least use the steel for scrapers!
That's amazing ! I never thought of using it as a scraper, I was just thinking I could keep the bolts for spares. - wowsers, a scraper- that's made my day !!!
Cheers
Coley

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The blade does not looked kinked so it can be straightened by the brass back being fitted. There are three possible issues with fitting the brass back.

1. The brass back should be fitted with only about 6mm of the blade within the brass back, if it's too deep and bottoms out you cannot tension the blade.

2. Putting the brass back on, start at the toe and tap it slightly on, pull it down onto the heel and then only tap at the heel. Tap with a hammer on the toe and heel only to set the blade at the right depth / level. Never tap the brass back away fro the toe of heel.

3. If this does not fix it it's likely that the brass back is too loose and is not gripping the blade. If the back is easy to get in and off this is the issue. Place a piece of wood on the edge of the brass back without the blade in and pound it. It will take a lot of pounding to get it to close up. You will need to probably beautify the brass back afterwards. Also remove any oil / greese from the blade before starting to reinsert.
 

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