Double Glazing.

[Digit]

As LPG is getting more and more expensive I'm finally getting round to double glazing.
Firstly, I have no choice but to use the original timber frames, which fortunately have 30 mil deep rebates.
I have spoken to the supplier and done some Googling but I'm still short of some info.
If somebody on here doesn't know the answers I'll eat my hat!
What goes between the glass and window frame on the interior side please?
Thanks in advance BTW.

Roy.

 

[dickm]

On my triple glazed windows, it looks like some sort of plastic gasket!

 

[Digit]

That's basically what I found on Google Dick, but I can't find out if it's a strip or a gun job like silicon.

Roy.

 

[andycktm]

Our old ones which were externally glazed had double sided tape(£3 a roll)
which i could only find at glazing firms.The new ones have rubber seals being
internally glazed.

 

[Digit]

Is that timber frames Andy?

Roy.

 

[andycktm]

No Roy plastic, but the tape was 5mm thick sponge so a bit of leeway.And very sticky!

 

[speed]

i have never used it but you can get security tape.

i just use glazing silicone on the rebate then silicone on the beads

 

[Digit]

Ta! Can you buy the spacers speed or do you make them?

Roy.

 

[Lons]

Just a word of caution Digit though things could have changed.

You should be careful and do your homework before using a standard silicone to seal dg units.
Some of them (strong vinegar smell) can't remember whether high or low modulus types, can react with and break down the seal between the panes over time, leading to condensation inside the glass. I'm sure you will have seen examples! Oil putty used to have a similar effect but don't know if it still does.

Glazing tapes and sealants are readily available - just read the spec sheet first.

Also make sure the bottom edge is on packers to keep it dry in the event of water ingress.

A belt and braces, if not done by your supplier is to buy a roll of aluminium tape and tape all round the unit edges.

cheers

Bob

 

[Digit]

Thanks Bob, Google revealed the differences between the silicone types, which I confess was news to me, but we live and learn. Hopefully.
I've also found out the need for drainage at the bottom, and frankly the job's beginning to seem rather less daunting than I'd supposed.
Fingers crossed!

Roy.

 

[DeanN]

If the beading is to the outside, then you'll need to "secure" the double glazed unit into the rebate to prevent it being lifted out. Double sided security tape is usually used, but this prevents re-allignment of the unit once inserted into the rebate - you''ll need to ensure you've correctly positioned the packers beforehand. On UPVC windows, the units have rubber gasket seals inserted between the glass and beading/frame - different widths available. Not sure if these are used on timber framed glazing though.

 

[Digit]

Looks as though I still have a few questions for my supplier.

Roy.

 

[laird]

Between our triple glazed units it's carbon fibre. (and gassed with argon).

 

[johnf]

My son has a glazing company they use silicone

Just bed the unit on silicone same thing under the beads spray with a weak solution of soapy water clean of the excess with a plastic scraper

fix the beads with stainless brads

 

[Digit]

Thank you gentlemen, one and all!

Roy.

 

[squib]

Low modulus silicone only or glazing tape which is 3mm x about 10 mm mastic tape ,you can buy it from the glazier as can you the packers.

 

[Hivenhoe]

My son has a glazing company they use silicone

Just bed the unit on silicone same thing under the beads spray with a weak solution of soapy water clean of the excess with a plastic scraper

fix the beads with stainless brads

That should also work with glazing tape to allow repositioning, don't drench them!

 

[RogerS]

Roy

You could do a lot worse than read this thread.

For my two-pennorth, tape or LM silicone? For me tape is too much of a one-shot approach. get that dgu in the wrong place and it's a pipper to remove to reposition. Not surprising really, after all, that is exactly what the security double glazing tape is supposed to do. So I prefer LM silicone.

I'd also go for argon fill as the minor incremental cost is worth it IMO.

 

[Dibs-h]

http://www.hodgsonsealants.com/productp ... ing-tapes/

Butyl Tape is what you need for timber frame - the foam tapes are not intended for timber frames.

If you click on Technical Library and then select the 2nd tab (Glazing System Selector) - you'll see all the different methods etc. From memory I used the B6 method in fully bedded frames.

As for the Silicone - Everbuild do a something called 450 which is suitable for DG units. You'll need to ring round glazing firms for one that stocks the Butyl Tape. In the end I rang Hodgson's Sales Dep't and asked for the details of a couple of glazing firms local to me that they supplied.

If you have a 30mm rebate - you'll be looking for a unit around 20mm. Although I did see a local chap fit DG units into what were originally SG frames. He just planted on additional timber - so maybe that's something to consider, especially if it's all going to be painted. Otherwise 20mm units (or thereabouts) - as suggested I'd go for Argon filled and if budget isn't an issue Saint Gobain's Planatherm gets a low U Value, which might make up for the thin'ish DG unit.

If fitting yourself - get a good double sucker thing (aluminium body as the plastic ones are cr@p), makes handling glass so much easier (and probably safer).

HIH

Dibs

 

[Digit]

Thank you gentlemen, that seems to answer all my questions.

Roy.