Doors for a small lean-to

[dlowry_uk]

Hi,
I'm building a small lean-to to hide our 45kg gas tanks. Just need some advice on door construction. I'm hoping to use it as a learning exercise for frame-and-panel construction.

The opening is 140h x 80w, with a double door, so 2 long narrow doors (140 x 40). The plan is to biscuit-joint the frame from 32 x 100 stock pine, with an additional horizontal rail at about 1/3 height, and rebate the back for 12mm ply panels.

So, a few questions:

1. Is biscuit-jointing with PVA ok for outdoors?
2. Is the frame likely to sag without diagonal braces?
3. Should i take the easy route and simply pin a face-frame to full-size ply panels and avoid all the hassle?

Thanks
Drew

 

[WellsWood]

Hi Drew,

1. PVA will be fine if it's the waterproof one (the Evo-Stick one in the blue bottle). Biscuit jointing is an acceptable method of construction, but you will need careful timber prep to ensure the mating faces are properly square - which they are unlikely to be if you're planning on buying "PAR" timber - otherwise you'll have gappy joints or doors that aren't flat.

2. If your measurements are in cms I wouldn't expect a problem with sagging as long as your joints are sound (see point 1.) However, a diagonally braced design might look more "right" for an outdoor project. With this in mind I think personally I'd make small ledged and braced doors with panels or cladding of T&G rather than frame and panel ones.

3. Your "easy option" is unlikely to give satisfactory results, certainly in the long run, as it relies on the ply primarily for the stability of the doors' shape (if I understand you correctly). In an outdoor environment I think the ply - and consequently the doors - will warp quite easily with obvious results.

But in the end it's not a big project, go ahead and make them anyway you want. If you don't get the result you wanted you'll have learned what not to do next time, which is after all the point of the exercise :wink:

Hope this helps

Mark

 

[dlowry_uk]

Mark,
Thanks for the reply. I'm sort of committed to the frame-and-panel look, since I've already bought the materials. As you say, its not a big project, so I can replace the outer skin next year if things don't work out.

Accurate stock preparation is a bit of a problem for me, specially at this time of year. I have no workshop, and do all my work on the patio - getting a bit chilly! I have no jointer, and the B&D workmate isn't a very solid planing platform, so i tend to rely too much on PAR.

I'll probably incorporate a diagonal brace, more for looks than anything else.

BTW, the "easy option" came from a book "Building a Shed" from Taunton's "Build Like a Pro" series. It was a heftier design though - 3/4" ply with 1" face frame.

 

[Anonymous]

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[dlowry_uk]

Finished last year - only got around to taking photos today. Internal framing is treated 2x2, clad with 12mm exterior ply and 16mm PAR framing. Roof is shiplap. I took the easy option with the doors - PAR glued/screwed to full-size ply panels with Pink Grip and 2 coats of stain/preservative inside and out.

The wife is happy, so I'm happy!

Drew

 

[Max Power]

Well done Drew, looks very smart