Does "hard as nails" crack?

[Mister S]

I have a door frame in a stud wall where both sides and the top have warped in two directions (and also the stud wall I assume). The door is a modern replacement which is flat and true, so there are unsightly gaps (of varying thickness) visible at the sides and top. I was thinking of fitting a straight edge to the frame, trimming back the curved parts until they are uniformly flat and then replacing the cut away part with a strip of wood to bring it all back reasonably true so the door fits flush again.

I was thinking of just paring back with a sharp chisel. As this won't give a properly flat surface I won't be able to use PVA, so I wondered about Hard As Nails or similar, sanding any squeeze out flush and then finally painting everything.

The question is, will the hard as nails crack over time? Being a doorframe, there will be a fair bit of vibration every time the door is closed. Cracking along the join line would be in plain view.

I've used this kind of stuff before, but only in applications where it's out of sight.

Anyone got any experience of this?

Cheers
Steve

 

[andersonec]

I would be inclined to use a PU glue, it foams and fills gaps, dampen both surfaces slightly, alloy to almost dry before applying glue, it can be messy, use masking tape where possible.

It may be advisable to experiment with a very small amount to see the amount of expansion.

Andy

 

[Mister S]

Thanks Andy

I hadn't thought of that. It would certainly hide any uneven join lines and hopefully shouldn't crack. Not sure how well it would sand and take paint, but a little experimentation would soon tell me that.

thanks
Steve

 

[andersonec]

Steve,

Once dry it will sand and take paint, just give it plenty of time.

Don't try to wipe off any 'squeeze' out, pare it off when fairly stiff and non sticky.

Andy

 

[AndyT]

I used something like 'hard as nails' when I refurbished our old basement stairs. The treads were worn and dished; I used oak engineered flooring and glued it on. It's been absolutely fine; nothing has detached in use over five years or more, so the gap filling glue must be flexible enough to yield a bit without cracking.

The trouble is, I can't be sure what brand of product I used! I think it was probably Gripfil, but can't be certain. The gaps would have been up to a few millimetres - it was a bit like laying patio slabs onto dabs of glue, with some scraps of ply packing up the biggest voids.

 

[Mister S]

Thanks for that Andy.

I'll see if i can scrounge a little of each and try out some test pieces on some scrap to see which is best. I'm looking to minimise any gap before glue up so maybe PU will be the winner, I'll see.

cheers
Steve