Do you really need a ripsaw?

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Fromey

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I've noticed that true rip panel saws are relatively few and far between compared to cross-cut panel saws. I suppose that's a reflection of the fact that one tends to do more cross-cutting than ripping or is there some other reason?

However, at the moment I'm ripping down a chunk of 2 inch thich wood (cutting off the wood-worm/dry-rot side of a reclaimed board) using a (gasp!) Homebase "universal teeth" panel saw. Needles to say, it's hard going (although that may also be because it's an old and much used saw and so in need of sharpening).

Is it advisable to have a real rip saw or do the "universal teeth" saws do just as well? I've been thinking of investing in the Bacho "Ergo" handle + blade system with its "XT toothing", but am I going to make a fatal mistake?

Thanks for your collective wisdom in advance.
 
My observations: rip cut tennon saw cuts much faster and more easily than its otherwise identical cross-cut counterpart (when ripping, of course).

My rip-cut hand saw, appears on a test piece of beech to be less effort (qualitative impression only) than my Stanley jet-cut universal was. However, in this case it is not a fair comparison as the rip has less teeth per inch than the hard-point saw and is re-sharpenable amd pf a different age.

My reason for ripping by hand is that for small pieces of timber I do not feel that I can use a power saw safely enough. If in doubt (which is often) I saw by hand. Hence my desire to make it a bit easier. Not essential, though, because the universal hard point will do the job and give me some needed exercise!
 
Yes.
Rip sawing was a revelation for me. They are not just for directly with the grain - up to 45 degrees against they make things a lot easier.
 
Fromey":h9n7ed6a said:
I've noticed that true rip panel saws are relatively few and far between compared to cross-cut panel saws. I suppose that's a reflection of the fact that one tends to do more cross-cutting than ripping or is there some other reason?

several:

- MDF
- Plywood
- Loose of knowledge at companis and customers

I had a big moment I first saw with a rip filed tenon saw. That was fast.

Cheers Pedder
 
I still have a few rip saws from the days - before the more common use of power tools and disposable saws - when we used to rip a lot of stock lengthwise and still use them, although to a much lesser extent nowadays. The same selection of rip and crosscut applies to both panel and backed saws and it's well worth keeping your options open. :wink:
 
I would put it this way: if you had used a rip saw you would not have had the need (or time) to stop in the middle of sawing to write a message to here. :wink:

Pekka
 
Rip saws are a good deal more effective at (shock) ripping.

Whether you need one depends on how much ripping you do.

Whether you want is more personal ;-)

BugBear
 
Thanks everyone. It sounds like a rip saw might be a good investment. Now the challenge is where to find one at a reasonable price. Axminster sell only on panel saw for ripping and it's a bit pricey at £55. Rutlands don't appear to sell any (although the Shark saws might be equivalent?)

Any suggestions on a source for a rip saw?

Thanks.
 
Fromey":25cx2vmy said:
Thanks everyone. It sounds like a rip saw might be a good investment. Now the challenge is where to find one at a reasonable price. Axminster sell only on panel saw for ripping and it's a bit pricey at £55. Rutlands don't appear to sell any (although the Shark saws might be equivalent?)

Any suggestions on a source for a rip saw?

Thanks.

Your best bet is a car boot sale or two, followed by a sharpening service if you don't want to learn to sharpen yourself.

Old rip saws are unloved and unappreciated, and go cheap.

Comments on buying old saws (in general) have been posted before, and are just as applicable to rip saws.

BugBear
 
Hi,

I would buy an old tenon or panel saw on e-bay. I have bought a number and if you are selective you can find a very good quality saw in good condition with sharp teeth for around a fiver. Read the description carefully and although you get some duds it is a surprisingly small percentage (the words all teeth present, all teeth even and sharp" is a good indication as is a saw edge protector in the photo.

Avoid "collectors" pieces with the Disston logo on the blade and shinny restored examples. There are plenty of older Spear & Jackson, Tyzach and the like out there.

There are plenty of threads advocating learning to sharpen your own saws and videos on U-tube including the very good series by workshop heaven. Second hand eclipse saw sets are cheap as are files.
 
I use a rip saw all the time

DSCN0142.jpg


3tpi Disston bought off e-bay for £12 delivered.

Cheers

Karl
 
For some reason I hadn't thought of e-bay. I'll keep my eyes on it.

As for retooling a saw, I had thought of that and I think my subconscious had suppressed it. I have an old rusty and very blunt Spear and Jackson that I picked up for a fiver. I have a saw set. Just need a file and a little Internet research. Maybe something for the dark winter nights.
 
Fromey":3g4q73m4 said:
For some reason I hadn't thought of e-bay. I'll keep my eyes on it.

Look for fancy handles (not the most important, but the most visible aspect of a good saw), and a kink free blade. Everything else can be fixed.

BugBear
 

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