Disappointed with Axminster 100mm dust extraction kit

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Sawdust

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I bought one of these because it looked good value and a reasonable way to get started with a ducted system around my workshop:

http://www.axminster.co.uk/product-100m ... 803510.htm

Well the pipes are OK but the T-junctions should be Y-Junctions (fair enough, I knew that when I ordered it), the 90degree bends are useless because they reduce to about 2.5 inch diameter in the middle of the bend, the joiners don't stay on the blast gates and the blast gates clog up with sawdust and don't close properly.

Rubbish - don't make the same mistake I did!!!

Cheers
Mike
 
Out of interest, is your ducting mainly horizontal, I have no trouble with my blast gates which are at a vertical orientation.
 
Sawdust, I had the same problems with the blast gates depending on mount direction, I solved the trapped dust by drilling a small 5-6mm hole in each blind corner, the in use leak is negligible but enough to stop debris from collecting in the corners.
 
I'm going to be ordering the 63mm stuff for a ducted system in a while and wonder if it's better to buy the kit or get the bits individually? I have heard as well that blast gates need to be mounted vertically so they don't block with sawdust - Rob
 
woodbloke":3rnt5g0u said:
I'm going to be ordering the 63mm stuff for a ducted system in a while and wonder if it's better to buy the kit or get the bits individually? I have heard as well that blast gates need to be mounted vertically so they don't block with sawdust - Rob

Yes, thats true. My Dakota blastgates also sit closer to the wall if you orient them vertically. I got the kit, as it seemed good value, but now I'm left with loads of bits I don't need - tubes and joiners mostly.

Out of interest, has anyone had any luck using standard HVAC galvanized 100mm duct? I recently looked at the alternatives for plumbing in my workshop with larger ducting and the galvanized metal stuff came out cheaper than soil pipe and axminster plastic duct. These are the guys I'm thinking of using:
http://www.ductstore.co.uk/

The only problem is that Ys seem to be hard to get hold of or prohibitively expensive.

Cheers
-Tom
 
I found that some canned fruit tins are 4" diameter and make connectors, also if you are any good at soldering you could most probably make Y jonts.
 
Having bought the 63mm kit (some years ago now) I don't think I would choose that option when I redo my ducting again (soon as I've finished the insulating/dry lining). I had to buy quite a few extra bits, 90/45 degree bends etc, that it soon worked out quite expensive for a small bore system. I did a roughish calculation of what it would cost me using 120mm soil pipe (from Toolsation who are doing it cheap at the mo) and it worked out cheaper than the 63mm. Two disadvantages though, (1) it's not clear so blockages might be harder to spot, but at 120mm it should be less likely to happen. (2) I might have to 'invent' some parts if I can't buy them.
 
Anyone planning on the 63mm kit for use with HPLV systems might be interested in a very cheap alternative for ducting. Simply pop down to your local plumbing merchant and buy a load of 50mm solvent weld waste pipe and fittings. Works really well because the few mm difference in bore makes no appreciable difference to airflow on HiVac systems, especially when using blast gates which don't open the full bore anyway, and costs a fraction of the price.

The clever bit comes when fitting it to 63mm blast gates and other stuff the same size: an old largish bicycle inner tube, sort of mountain bike size, cut into rings about an inch or so long and stretched over the end of the pipe makes it a really good fit inside the blast gate stub 8)
 
WellsWood":2eed36pw said:
Anyone planning on the 63mm kit for use with HPLV systems might be interested in a very cheap alternative for ducting. Simply pop down to your local plumbing merchant and buy a load of 50mm solvent weld waste pipe and fittings. Works really well because the few mm difference in bore makes no appreciable difference to airflow on HiVac systems, especially when using blast gates which don't open the full bore anyway, and costs a fraction of the price.

The clever bit comes when fitting it to 63mm blast gates and other stuff the same size: an old largish bicycle inner tube, sort of mountain bike size, cut into rings about an inch or so long and stretched over the end of the pipe makes it a really good fit inside the blast gate stub 8)
Mark - cunning...like it 8) :wink: How do you get round the issue of 90deg bends?..plumbing fixtures are a dead 90deg whereas what's needed is a gentle 90deg sweep...use 63mm Ax corners and then some inner tube to connect to the straight bits made from plumbing stuff? - Rob
 
Rob, I used swept bends and tees, like the ones lower down on this page which are plenty gentle enough to cope. Alternatively you could use a pair of 45deg bends with a short length of pipe between.Actually the only issue with the bends is that they are not 90 but 92deg, as they are designed to maintain the fall when used for their intended purpose, but in practice there's enough leeway in the joins for it not to be a problem.

I don't glue them by the way as they're a good tight fit anyway, and when I change my mind about the layout it's just a matter of yanking it all to bits and re-arranging.
 
Soilpipe is an easy way to get what you want and the variety available is huge, the 4" grey stuff is what I use and you can buy caps that you just pop into the opening when not in use. With no solvent (I used a tiny bead of silicone eventually) when you pushed one cap in it pushed the other two out it was so well sealed. You can then connect up whatever hoses you have by using different combinations of reducers and the variation between socket and plug sealing gives you enough play to accomodate just about anything. I have the 100mm kit, but I've not got round to using most of the bits, the one blastgate is at the end of my 3m+ soilpipe blast box

Aidan
 
Rainwater pipes (down-pipes) are 63mm in diameter, with plenty of Y's, elbows and bends to choose from. Whilst it is normally push-fit, it solvent-welds perfectly well, and because of the quantities it is sold in I have no doubt it would be cheaper than a special extraction pipe.

Has anyone used tis?

Mike
 
Mike Garnham":3a6zns18 said:
Rainwater pipes (down-pipes) are 63mm in diameter, with plenty of Y's, elbows and bends to choose from. Whilst it is normally push-fit, it solvent-welds perfectly well, and because of the quantities it is sold in I have no doubt it would be cheaper than a special extraction pipe.

Has anyone used tis?

Mike

That sounds interesting, could I use that 63mm piping and are there 100mm to 63mm reducers? I've got the top and bottom bag type of extractor.
 
How high would the SIP 01342 extractor using 63mm piping pull up?

Attached to a planer/thicknesser and bandsaw.

(The sip manual does not quote any perfromance figures)
 
DW, I think you'd have trouble using that HVLP extractor with 63mm pipe as they tend to lose all efficiency and suction/airflow once you start reducing the diameter. Ideally, you'd want a HPLV vacuum-type extractor.
 
OPJ":1jjwn507 said:
DW, I think you'd have trouble using that HVLP extractor with 63mm pipe as they tend to lose all efficiency and suction/airflow once you start reducing the diameter. Ideally, you'd want a HPLV vacuum-type extractor.

Yeah I thought so, what model or brand are they?
 
Well, the Camvac machines have become very popular - I think woodbloke, EdSutton and Boz62 each own one. Record Power and Axminster also do their own range but, as I understand it, the Camvac has a lower working noise as you can 'exhaust' the airflow to another part of the workshop... :wink: Rob did a review in a recent issue of F&C and, apparently, Yandles have the best price inc. delivery.

Otherwise, you could set up a system of 100mm piping for use with your HVLP machine. But then, you wouldn't be able to reduce this diameter.

Is it worth keeping this one solely for use with your planer/thicknesser? The only problem with HPLV machines is that the drums fill up with large quantities of shavings very fast. I don't know whether you have the space for two extractors... You could set one up in a shed/lean-to outside your workshop and feed a pipe in through the wall?
 
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