Deft T30 Table Saw Review

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I've spent some time on it but haven't been able to finish yet. The splitter seems flat. At least it rests flat on the saw's table. The issue seems to be with the alignment of the splitter bracket to the harbor flange, and then the tightening of said bracket, as well as tightening of the splitter.

There are 3 set screws to align the splitter bracket and 2 large bolts to tighten everything. It's a pretty awkward way of doing it in my opinion and will probably take some time to get it right.
 
LeChuck - why don't you get back to Lyndhurst they are very helpful?

PS - no such problem with mine.

Rod
 
I might if I am no able to square it myself. Squaring it is part of the setup that is described in the doc, which is a bad translation, so if it doesn't come well setup then I should be able to do it myself, even though it's a pain. That said, if that fails ultimately I'll conclude that something isn't right...
 
Well, I finally got my riving knife aligned properly, or acceptably I would say. It's not *perfect* but it's perfect enough. Fiddling a bit more had the risk of setting it out of whack again. It literally took hours! If it comes already acceptably aligned on your saw then it's not the right time to be an ultra-perfectionist because it's a real pain to do. you wouldn't believe that when you read the 2 lines about it in the manual...

Mine was causing the guard to rest on the table at a very visible angle so it obviously had to be fixed.

The manual tells you very casually to just use the bolts to align the splitter bracket, as well as check its squareness to the table as part of the install procedure *before* installing the blade. That's wrong. Because you need to align the splitter to the blade, the blade has to be fitted first so you can check its squareness to the table. That allows you to set the 90 degree stop at 90 degrees.

In my case, I just used a bevel box and checked the angle of the blade at the 90 degree stop, and it was 90.1 degrees, and I used that for the riving knife.

The procedure calls for using a ruler to simply align the riving knife bracket to the blade harbor. That doesn't work in my opinion as those surfaces are too small to be a good reference. Instead I mounted the riving knife on its bracket and just frequently checked its position by mounting the blade and checked respective alignment,

Pretty labour intensive. Next stop...checking square on the fence and setting the scale. I think blade alignment to the table is good enough as I don't have a dial to measure.
 
LeChuck - sorry about your problems but I still cannot understand why you did not get back to Lyndhurst?? If the goods they supplied are faulty they should sort it out for you.

They are nice people to deal with and would have probably sorted out your problem without all your hassle?

I agree the instructions are not the best but typical of most Chinawese products!

Rod
 
OPJ":1ilrwkzx said:
wizer":1ilrwkzx said:
That does not mean I don't miss having a TS of some sort and if I bought again it'd be the DEFT or the SIP, I think.

You sure about that, Tom?! :D

A little while ago, it was the Axminster TS200!! You've probably already seen the other thread started on the Jet TS600...! :wink: :D :)

we bought a TS200 for work during the spend up at the end of the last financial and i'd back it against the more expensive saws - the provided legs are rubbish - pressed steel with the holes in the wrong place - but now we have it on a self made stand we are more than happy with it.

if theres money left at the end of this financial year i might get an incra to go with it.
 
Harbo":fscmynij said:
LeChuck - sorry about your problems but I still cannot understand why you did not get back to Lyndhurst?? If the goods they supplied are faulty they should sort it out for you.

They are nice people to deal with and would have probably sorted out your problem without all your hassle?

I agree the instructions are not the best but typical of most Chinawese products!

Rod

I don't agree that anything was faulty. Aligning the splitter bracket to the blade is a procedure (although badly explained) that is part of the setup of the saw. Either you are lucky and it's right out of the box or you have to set it up and it's a pain. It's just like squaring the table to the blade. I don't see what they could have done at Lyndhurst short of sending someone out to set it right for me.
 
I bought the t-30 after excellent feedback from Harbo (thanks again) then purchased an incra 1000se mitre fence both are excellent products no problems to report MCB 16 amp had to be changed to B rating as it tripped A rated MCB on start up.
 
keggie - I am no electrician but I thought it should be a Type C?

Glad you like it - I use the Incra as well!


Rod
 
I think I'k like one of those Incras as well someday. The big fence itself feels great, locks tight and straight, but the miter gauge. Well, it's solid, can be set tight in the slot, has a nice flip stop, but the extrusion is so short! The flip stop has a nut on the top that can be easily replaced with a little ratchetting handle, but moving the extrusion requires untightening 2 other bolts and those are so low, there's no place to install some knobs or handles there. Not very practical. Too bad because its very solidly made and seems accurate.
 
Your right Rod my mistake it is C rated MCB which allows the extra load upon startup. It is a great saw as you stated very solid and so far given faultless preformance.Incra makes for accurate angular cuts everytime wish I had went for the 3000se thought.
Ken
 
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