Debris on bandsaw tires. Should it be a concern ?

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Rhossydd

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I'm just in the process of putting a new blade on my Startrite 301. Looking at the state of the tires, there seems to be a lot resinous, rough debris stuck hard to the bottom wheel especially.
I've tried using router cutter cleaner, which helped a little on the top wheel, but the bottom wheel is still looking pretty dirty.
Is this something to worry about ?
I could try scraping it off, but I'm concerned at the risk of damaging the tires. It all looks pretty even.
301 top wheel.jpg

301 Bottom wheel.jpg
 

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Mine is much the same, as it doesn't seem to be causing any problems I just leave it rather than possibly creating a problem.

If there was some loose stuff or it was creating much in the way of bumps I would lightly wire brush or coarse abrasive paper, manually with the power off obviously, but wouldn't do much else really.

Cheers, Paul
 
could you fir a brush that just sweeps and loose stuff off each time the wheel passes it- my axi one has that and it must work reasonably well. It only need be something like a stiff paintbrish, nail brush etc.
 
marcros":2g9spohc said:
could you fir a brush that just sweeps and loose stuff off each time the wheel passes it
It has one, but as you can see it hasn't done a very good of keeping the wheel clean.
 
Is the brush close enough?
Mine on a 352 seems to work well, it gets clogged up quite often.

Pete
 
phil.p":528nk44d said:
Did it worry you any when didn't know it was there?
I'm trying to get the saw working more smoothly than it has been recently. So I'm looking at every possible cause of poor performance.
 
Pete Maddex":1tp3wwpx said:
Is the brush close enough?
Mine on a 352 seems to work well, it gets clogged up quite often.
Obviously not. The brass brush on mine is mounted into a hardwood block with a slot in it. It's not a great design as it tends to rotate and loose it's adjustment as you tighten the locking bolt.
As you say it gets clogged quickly and presumably looses a lot in effectiveness.
I would have thought that it would be better placed sweeping the blade bellow the table to prevent getting debris on the wheel in the first place rather than trying to sweep it off after it's been compressed onto the tire.
I've added extra dust extraction around the lower blade guides, but it looks like there's still room for improvements there.
 
As the blade runs on the whole of the tyre, dust tends to get carried within the teeth and get compressed on the tyre.
A good extractor will keep this dust to a minimum. , as any build up of debris will have an effect on running and tracking eventually.
Cutting wet and resinous wood adds to the mix.
Keeping the tyres clean as possible is best and careful scraping is about all you can do as any cleaning "agents" will help rot the rubber or neoprene tyre.
Sand paper or wire brush are best avoided as to roughen up the tyre is only giving a good key to future dust, crud etc.
As mentioned, the tyre brushes are often not adjusted well enough to do what little they are designed to do.
Regards Rodders
 
blackrodd":2hsci9m8 said:
Sand paper or wire brush are best avoided as to roughen up the tyre is only giving a good key to future dust, crud etc. Regards Rodders

Hi Rodders, sounds sensible in theory, but in practice I haven't had any problems using the above approach occasionally over the last fifteen or so years, so done sensibly it seems to be fine, although if scraping is not found to be too fiddly and/or ineffective (which I personally did find) then I guess scraping is good too :)

Cheers, Paul
 
Occasionally (when they get particular thick with stuff) mine get a scrape with the edge of a steel rule. Of course the wheels being moved round by hand not under power! Though I can't say it makes much noticeable difference to the running. But it must help I suppose.
 
I notice a lot of resin build up on the blade when cutting green timber which inevitably will find its way to the tyres. When that happens I use a modified paint scraper and very very carefully scrape the side of the blade while running it, keeping my fingers well clear and also avoiding the set of the teeth. So I scrape to about 1/2mm from where the set begins as I don't want to catch the scraper on the sides of the teeth.

The mod to the scraper is simply to sharpen the edge on the sander first so it cuts all the resin off. If you let this build up it makes a massive difference to the tracking.
 
Random Orbital Bob":34bwp9z3 said:
I notice a lot of resin build up on the blade when cutting green timber which inevitably will find its way to the tyres. ............
I never use softwood (wet of otherwise) so I expect that's why the wheels on mine don't get much contamination.
 
No me neither Roger. I'm talking here of oak, ash etc ie native British hardwoods I've harvested myself. Perhaps resin is a confusing word since it does confer the idea of sticky sap in pines. Nevertheless, hardwoods have sap too, just not the same as softwoods but it is noticeably worse when you're cutting green wood compared to seasoned. Oak I find to be particularly bad. (Straight off the log)
 
Random Orbital Bob":qai5tmm0 said:
No me neither Roger. I'm talking here of oak, ash etc ie native British hardwoods I've harvested myself. Perhaps resin is a confusing word since it does confer the idea of sticky sap in pines. Nevertheless, hardwoods have sap too, just not the same as softwoods but it is noticeably worse when you're cutting green wood compared to seasoned. Oak I find to be particularly bad. (Straight off the log)
... ah right I misunderstood, nice to have a source of hardwood to harvest. :) I just use stuff I can buy, sometimes get given or can reclaim. Most is quite old dry and stable.
 
Spray a small amount of this on (before fitting the blade) leave a couple of minutes and then wipe off with some tissue, if it is a bit difficult to remove then apply some more, leave a couple more minutes then spin the wheel slowly with one hand whilst holding your little wire brush on the wheel with the other, you will then need to clean your little brush. The brass brush should not rotate so you should have a look at why it is doing this and remedy it, more or larger washers maybe?

Andy
 
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