DBT85s Workshop - Moved in and now time to fit it out

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Since I'm going to need a lot of 200mm for my formwork, someone tell me I can cut those down and use them elsewhere in the build if I just treat the cuts? I mean one 6m 200x50 will make 6 studs! I think I could get at least 20 studs out of my formwork, or 6 rafters. Alternatively I could have even more OTT rafters and just use 200mm rather than the 145 specced.

I'd rather that then try to rip 50mm off of a 6m long board and use them as rafters or ties, though that's doable with the circ saw i suppose. Not even going to think about doing it on an evolution table saw!

Davies Timber are going to go through my list and give me a price which is good as the price for it all at the moment on their site is £2555. Thats all the framing, OSB and featheredge, with extra ordered of everything in case of bent, split, or woops. I can always use the extra.
 
Yes you can, but if you use them as ties you may as well use the full width and not worry about any load you put up there. Because of the plastic there should be virtually no concrete on the boards.

You might find that scaffold boards make the cheapest formwork..........or you might not.
 
MikeG.":pg3670fd said:
Yes you can, but if you use them as ties you may as well use the full width and not worry about any load you put up there. Because of the plastic there should be virtually no concrete on the boards.

You might find that scaffold boards make the cheapest formwork..........or you might not.
I'll have a look. At least if I use the stuff I've looked at it can be used elsewhere on the build.

I need to add to my basket some preserver or whatever to dip my ends in.
 
While looking at DPMs and trying to decide whether to get a 4m roll and join it or just get a 6m roll and have no joins it turns out that the price difference is little. I suppose one benefit of joining is that I'll have to buy tape anyway, so if it has a hole I can patch it. If I buy one large one and it has holes I'll still have to buy the tape even after paying a bit extra for the wider dpm :shock:

A friend is hopefully avaialble to help me with the concrete pour when we get there. He even has his own rake. Between him, me and the wife we only need to keep up with a 1ton dumper that's got a probably 60m round trip, and I doubt it'll be full. So I think that give us enough time to rake, poke, tamp as needed. I say this with all the experience of someone who's never done it before.

Will also build a smaller formwork for some future storage for things like pressure washers and rubbish. May also use some while they are here to build up around the pit we found in the front garden to then make a well from it. At least then you can see where the damned thing is.

Gradually putting together my shopping lists

Hopefully will get 2 quotes from timberyards/building suppliers tomorrow so might actually order some stuff :shock:

Then the game really begins....what did I forget.
 
DBT85":8fsx731s said:
Then the game really begins....what did I forget.
I was quite surprised the quantity of joining/fixing/bracing hardware, be it Tec screws, nails, angle brackets, coach bolts, etc. I have gone in to my fourth box of 1100 paslode nails, 90mm for frame work, 50mm for OSB and 63mm for roofing battens and cladding counter battens. I know I’ve over engineered, it it certainly gets through the hardware.
 
Added my roof. Most of it.

49917287793_1ef5ca99ac_b.jpg


Sheptonphil":171o6q8w said:
DBT85":171o6q8w said:
Then the game really begins....what did I forget.
I was quite surprised the quantity of joining/fixing/bracing hardware, be it Tec screws, nails, angle brackets, coach bolts, etc. I have gone in to my fourth box of 1100 paslode nails, 90mm for frame work, 50mm for OSB and 63mm for roofing battens and cladding counter battens. I know I’ve over engineered, it it certainly gets through the hardware.
Yeah that's where they get you! Fortunately that'll all come from the hire shop and I'm not paying for that bit :D

Can someone confirm the a142 overlap for me, I've seen anything from 150mm to 350mm online? Decided on meshmen for the bottom and circle spacers for the middle section. Now I need wire and a method of fixing. £20 for a hook on a stick for the little double loop ties!
 
Middle section? Your mesh should be top and bottom, not in the middle. Overlap......I aim for a whole square or more, but essentially you space the stuff out to cover your base without cutting, and you'll end up with bigger overlaps than you need.

Are you really sure you aren't going to have a window? I'd have one over the bench if I were you.
 
MikeG.":2nqn18tb said:
Middle section? Your mesh should be top and bottom, not in the middle. Overlap......I aim for a whole square or more, but essentially you space the stuff out to cover your base without cutting, and you'll end up with bigger overlaps than you need.

Are you really sure you aren't going to have a window? I'd have one over the bench if I were you.
Middle section as in the 90 odd mm between the bottom sheet and the top one. Sorted what I'll use now anyway.

It's likly I'll end up with the merchant sized 3.6*2m so I'll probably have to do some cutting anyway.

Looking at the building I think it would look better with a window or two. But I don't really want upvc in it and I've not really got the experience of finer stuff to make a proper frame like you do. Though I'm sure I can do it if I have the time.

I'm really not worried about any natural light, I have spent my entire working life under artificial light only and I'll have a lot in there.

Is there a reason I can't make appropriate holes for windows in the frame and just clad over it until such time as I get a pane and a frame made up?
 
Yeah I've seen some but the distance for some just starts to get a bit daft. I'd probably put 2 in so naturally I don't want 2 different sized units.

Good news is that Davies Timber got back to me and knocked £300 off the price. Bad news they don't have the 10x3x7.2 I asked for.

Good news is I typed it wrong and I meant 9x3 which they have. Can get delivery at the start of June.

Just need to finalise my lists and get stuff on the way now.

Kellaway just got back to me with their quote. Basically cheaper on everything and can also do the type 1, sand and mesh cheaper than anyone else I've seen. Just waiting to hear on if they have featheredge.

They are still rummaging for a ridge beam though. The savings are enough that it would make sense to order with them and just get the featheredge and ridge from Davies if I have to.
 
Any reason for not building the ridge beam from thinner stock? Code, tradition or personal preference? Two or three 2x10's glued (construction adhesive) and screwed together for example. Also a lot easier when short staffed to carry up and assemble where you need it.

Pete
 
Inspector":2f0p9e02 said:
Any reason for not building the ridge beam from thinner stock? Code, tradition or personal preference? Two or three 2x10's glued (construction adhesive) and screwed together for example. Also a lot easier when short staffed to carry up and assemble where you need it.

Pete
The beam I want is only 9x3 anyway so a few 10x2 together might be a little over the top.

As this buiding is under 30m2 internal code isn't anything to worry about. You could make it from matchsticks if you wanted to!
 
Different rules then. Here a 9x3 would be a special order, if you could find it at all. Pretty much all the wood for construction is a 2 x something except for parallax type beams that are made of long strand chips fused/glued together. The 2x is all dressed too, so no rough wood full sized. I even went to a sawmill once and wanted to buy rough yellow and red cedar to make furniture with, preferring to thickness myself and they wouldn't sell it unless they had dressed all first. So all our 2x is actually 1 1/2" thick and the second dimension would be likewise smaller. 2x10 being 1 1/2 x 9 1/2 for example.

Pete
 
Inspector":1mhgjpnq said:
Different rules then. Here a 9x3 would be a special order, if you could find it at all. Pretty much all the wood for construction is a 2 x something except for parallax type beams that are made of long strand chips fused/glued together. The 2x is all dressed too, so no rough wood full sized. I even went to a sawmill once and wanted to buy rough yellow and red cedar to make furniture with, preferring to thickness myself and they wouldn't sell it unless they had dressed all first. So all our 2x is actually 1 1/2" thick and the second dimension would be likewise smaller. 2x10 being 1 1/2 x 9 1/2 for example.

Pete
Yeah it's the same here just in metric. You buy a 50x100 (2x4) and it's actually probably 47*95
 
Well I have my suppliers for just about everything now lined up, tomorrow Mr Tesco is going to get a sharp pain in his wallet as I load up the card.

Just need to finalise my timber numbers and decide what I'll use the formwork for and adjust accordingly. At least with 90% of it coming from a more local place I can get more when I get it wrong!
 
DBT85":w9g8q2k2 said:
Well I have my suppliers for just about everything now lined up, tomorrow Mr Tesco is going to get a sharp pain in his wallet as I load up the card.

Just need to finalise my timber numbers and decide what I'll use the formwork for and adjust accordingly. At least with 90% of it coming from a more local place I can get more when I get it wrong!
I don’t think it’s possible to get the numbers exact first delivery. I had a couple of top ups as the work progressed, partly because I didn’t want everything on site all at once wrecking the lawn so I phased it as a JIT system. Worked really well. I’ve got one length of 4x2 and one length of 6x2 left over, and they will get used when the summer house is built ( yep, just been informed we’re having a summer house :shock: )

I shall soon be able to sit and watch someone else grafting away day after day. :D
 
Sheptonphil":3416hk7i said:
DBT85":3416hk7i said:
Well I have my suppliers for just about everything now lined up, tomorrow Mr Tesco is going to get a sharp pain in his wallet as I load up the card.

Just need to finalise my timber numbers and decide what I'll use the formwork for and adjust accordingly. At least with 90% of it coming from a more local place I can get more when I get it wrong!
I don’t think it’s possible to get the numbers exact first delivery. I had a couple of top ups as the work progressed, partly because I didn’t want everything on site all at once wrecking the lawn so I phased it as a JIT system. Worked really well. I’ve got one length of 4x2 and one length of 6x2 left over, and they will get used when the summer house is built ( yep, just been informed we’re having a summer house :shock: )

I shall soon be able to sit and watch someone else grafting away day after day. :D

Yeah I'm sure I'll forget something daft. As long as waiting for it doesn't take a week I'm not too worried. I need to get ordered now as some stuff still wont be here for 10 days. Will try and arrange for certain bits to arrive at certain times.

I guess since she's seen you build all of that she knows you have no excuse for a summer house! Make her do the roof tho :lol:
 
Have done a bit more probing on the summer house, it seems more like a raised deck, open fronted but with 3/4 roofed, back and two side half walls. Got to take a BBQ on deck and have somewhere comfortable to sit in the shade. She wasn’t enamoured by your suggestion, no point putting her comments here, the filter will change them to pineapple. :lol:
 
Probably a dumb question but is a 2x4 is ok for tamping a 5m wide pour?

Also, it was M18 for the rafter tie bolts/rod wasn't it? Just normal BZP stuff.
 
If there are two of you tamping from the outside, then you'll want something bigger than a 4x2, and you'll want to add handles. I tamp from within the formwork wearing wellies with a shorter tamper of 6x1, maybe 2.5m long. Mine has hand holes cut in it. It's the only way to do it if you are alone......walking backwards away from the area you've tamped.
 

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