Cutting Formica Compact.

[Steve (Correze)]

I've acquired a large number of sheets of Formica "Compact", which I intend to use in various projects, bathroom, kitchen, camper interior etc.

However, I'm at a bit of a loss as to how to go about cutting it.

At work, we use the big beam and table saws with triple-chip blades, which do the job ok, if you go slowly and CNC routers, which equally do the job, but it's hard on the tools.

Most of my cuts will be straight, for rounded cuts I will use a router and accept having to change tools regularly.

So... what's the best way to go about cutting the panels?

Table saw with the right blade should be ok, but I don't fancy trying to break down the larger sheets on a small table saw without a decent sized sliding carriage to support them.

Can't afford a big table saw


I've been looking at the "Evolution" circular saws, anyone know how well the blades will cut this material?

 

[OPJ]

If these sheets are only 1mm thick then, you should be able to cut them with a Trimming Knife. It work well for me, all you need is a long enough straight edge!

 

[Steve (Correze)]

Nope, forgot to mention but they're 8mm & 10mm thick, not going to make much impression on them with a knife.

Will probably be getting some 12mm material as well...

 

[chippy1970]

Is this stuff anything like Phenolic plastic ?. I have used lots of that before for toilet cubicles, wall panels etc its a pig to cut , burns and blunts blades in no time.

 

[Steve (Correze)]

Is this stuff anything like Phenolic plastic ?. I have used lots of that before for toilet cubicles, wall panels etc its a pig to cut , burns and blunts blades in no time.

Sounds like exactly the same stuff. Black resin core with decor on either face.

 

[FatFreddysCat]

Stanley knife with laminate blades (yes, they do do them) or a tungsten carbide scorer for the thinner stuff (2mm, etc). Use with a straight edge. I've tried Klenk laminate shears but I don't reckon they're worth the money.

As cutting in a workshop just pop a piece of sacrificial 4mm MDF or hardboard onto the saw and push into the blade to make a sort of packer around the blade. Reduces chipping no end, although I always cut 10mm oversize in any case.

On thicker grades (like the stuff they use for cubicles) you'll need a table saw or something like a Hilti/Makita/Festool plunge saw and guide rail to make the initial cut and a heavy duty router with straight edge to clean-up afterwards. If it's like the Wilsonart stuff you need sharp blades and you'll need to go slowly as it tends to kick back a bit. Best solution I've found for cutters is to go to replaceable tip cutters like those from Wealden or Titman because HPL is hard on cutters

As far as I'm aware almost all laminates use phenolic resins to encapsulate a printed paper layer and Tufnol is a form of phenolic plastic, hence the brownish colour. Incidentally there's info about fabrication on the Formica site here

 

[Steve (Correze)]

Thanks, pretty much what I suspected.

I'm now seriously considering the Festool/Mafell and other rail-guided plunge-saws.

The rather difficult question is, which one?

Mafell offer a blade specifically for Trespa, which is the same as the Formica Compact I have (or at least very similar). I've used the works Festool saws to cut Corian, which is somewhat related.

Any recommendation as to one or the other, or one of the other rail systems available?

Am I right in thinking that I should be looking only at saws with electronic control to give a constant speed under load?

No idea what the spec was on the Festool I used, but the noise when cutting was incredible.

 

[FatFreddysCat]

Any recommendation as to one or the other, or one of the other rail systems available?

A bit difficult for me. I've used the Festools at work and played with the deWalt, Mafell and Makita rail saws. All these saws, together with the Hilti WSC 255 and 265 can run on the Festool guide rail (in fact Hilti sell a version of it as their own), but the compatibility is only one way. The Festool rail system has the advantage of having loads of accessories available should you meed them, like the Gecko clamps for use on hard, shiny surfaces (although Virutex sell something similar). I disliked the deWalt because it really is a two hands on saw plunge, the Makita had a feel of being built down to a price (although that hasn't stopped Virutex from branding it as their own product in some countries), the Festool is a very nice bit of kit but the Mafell seems just that bit better built. In the end I bought a Hilti. The Hilti saws appear to have some disadvantages - they require one hand to plunge and may require the other to either control the blade guard (unless used with a Hilti guide rail which has a lead-in cut-out) and/or lock the plunge, they also don't spring return to the "safe" position at the end of cut. On the other hand the Hilti saws allow you to see the plunge point which I regard essential when making in-situ cut-outs, such as you do may need on site, and the Hilti is also the only saw with a worm drive which means it seems to deliver a lot more torque and I'm less worried about it burning out than I would be about the direct drive saws. Important as I cut a lot of solid surface, acrylic, Tufnol and laminate material (shop fitting)

Am I right in thinking that I should be looking only at saws with electronic control to give a constant speed under load?

I'd say having a sharp blade of the right type and using dust extraction were probably more important. The blade diameter of the Festool TS55, Makita SP6000, Mafell MT55cc and Hilti WSC 255-KE is identical at 160mm with a 20mm bore, so blades are interchangeable. I actually buy surplus blades (Makita, Bosch, etc) on eBay and have them rebored as necessary. Not as "nice" but a heck of a lot cheaper, especially as hard plastics tend to eat blades - and even then you still need a straight edge and router to get a half decent edge because this is all but impossible off the saw. Electronic speed controllers are just something else to go wrong

No idea what the spec was on the Festool I used, but the noise when cutting was incredible.

All solid surface/laminate stuff is the same. Did I mention that you should wear ear defenders? :roll: :lol:

 

[Steve (Correze)]

Ear defenders are a given, I like music and would still like to appreciate it when I'm 50 Still, I'd say that cutting this stuff ranks on the same level as a CNC router putting a large profile on 40mm MDF, if not worse. It's the pitch rather than the volume.

Ear plugs and ear defenders over the top are not unknown...


Off to have a look at my local Festool and Mafell stockists next week. The Virutex (Makita) is about the same price as the Festool here, so I think I'll give that a miss.