Sportique
Established Member
Occasionally I need a piece of threaded rod (wood) when making up a (flat side 
) jig.
Not wanting to buy commercial thread cutters for use on my lathe, and not being able to find any shop-made jigs on t'Interweb I started from scratch.
I made up a simple and sturdy frame that clamps to the lathe rail.
This frame has three uprights, with a concentric hole drilled through all three to take a piece of threaded rod and the work-piece. The holes through the "l-h" two bearers needs to be a good fit for your blank work-piece. A steel nut is pressed into the enlarged hole on the "r-h" bearer.
The threaded rod to be used was 1" 8tpi (incidentally the same as my head-stock). This was drilled near one end to take a handle.
At the other end a square "key" was filed and a small hole drilled through the square. The work-piece has a matching key slot and hole. The two are slotted together and a split-pin passed through the hole. This allows the turning motion from the handle to be transmitted to the work-piece and keeps the two items together when backing out.
A cutter was fashioned from a large woodscrew
and fitted into a drill chuck held in the head stock.
A thrust plate was fitted to the front of the "l-h" bearer to prevent the head of the cutter from burning the bearer and to give support for the cutter.
This top view shows the cut thread, the cutter and the thrust plate
The final 1" 8tpi thread
The main draw back of this jig is the fixed thread size. Also the cutter design could be improved.
Does anyone know of a more versatile shop-made thread cutter on t'Interweb?
I hope this has been of some interest.
Dave
PS CHJ - I'm not sure if this should be in the turning or the jig thread!
modedit: should think it's fine here, needs a lathe after all. CHJ
) jig.Not wanting to buy commercial thread cutters for use on my lathe, and not being able to find any shop-made jigs on t'Interweb I started from scratch.
I made up a simple and sturdy frame that clamps to the lathe rail.
This frame has three uprights, with a concentric hole drilled through all three to take a piece of threaded rod and the work-piece. The holes through the "l-h" two bearers needs to be a good fit for your blank work-piece. A steel nut is pressed into the enlarged hole on the "r-h" bearer.
The threaded rod to be used was 1" 8tpi (incidentally the same as my head-stock). This was drilled near one end to take a handle.
At the other end a square "key" was filed and a small hole drilled through the square. The work-piece has a matching key slot and hole. The two are slotted together and a split-pin passed through the hole. This allows the turning motion from the handle to be transmitted to the work-piece and keeps the two items together when backing out.
A cutter was fashioned from a large woodscrew
and fitted into a drill chuck held in the head stock.
A thrust plate was fitted to the front of the "l-h" bearer to prevent the head of the cutter from burning the bearer and to give support for the cutter.
This top view shows the cut thread, the cutter and the thrust plate
The final 1" 8tpi thread
The main draw back of this jig is the fixed thread size. Also the cutter design could be improved.
Does anyone know of a more versatile shop-made thread cutter on t'Interweb?
I hope this has been of some interest.
Dave
PS CHJ - I'm not sure if this should be in the turning or the jig thread!
modedit: should think it's fine here, needs a lathe after all. CHJ
