Hudson Carpentry
Established Member
Hello
I have the Axminster AW10BSB2 table saw.
As you do, first thing you remove is the guard and knife.
I wanted to use the guard for the dust extraction and reep the benefits of using a knife. But its very annoying and time consuming having to take these off when you want to pass the material over the blade and not through it.
Anyway thats stuff you know.
Im one for having everything, i wanted the guard to be quick release (which it was) but the riving knife to be a few mm under the saw blade so material can pass over the knife without having to remove it. My first idea was to cut the knife down and dill in the holes for the quick release. This would mean only a max of 48mm could pass under guard before it needed removing and the saw blade would be protruding the work piece over an inch. Also you could never retract the blade into the table with the guard on, so i set about making this.
Best of all it didn't cost anything, everything used was laying around the shop. All timber is American White Oak. The build is a bit crude as i didn't take the time to make test pieces and tinker with test pieces.
The leg that supports the arm has a fixed pivot point, the handle on top screws into a T nut. This bolt adjusts the height of the guard if you need to set it out the way or at a given height.
I attached the guard to the arm using some nuts and bolts which also has a little play (when loose) encase the guard didn't sit inline with the saw blade.
The finger joint you can see on the arm near the guard extents the length of the arm and adjusts the angle of the guard. When you raise the arm the guard wouldn't sit 90deg to the table and the angle of the arm would mean the guard wasn't sitting over the middle of the saw blade. This is simply just a bolt, some washers and a wing nut. I made 3 holes in each piece then joined the holes to make one long hole ofr the bolt to slide in. Undoing the wing nut you can pull the guard or push it to adjust the arms reach or pivot the guard.
The riving knife i just cut down and filed.
The beauty of having the arm pivot enabled the guard to rise with the riving knife. I put a little bit of wood in the guard where the knife used to sit so as the knife risen it hit the wood and raised the guard.
Also this meant i didn't have to be accurate with setting the height of the guard correct before each cut as when you pass material under the guard it also raises due to the pivot, keeping the guard always in contact with the work.
I attached the support leg to the leg of the saws extension tables. I staggered the bolt holes to counter any rocking.
I'm quite happy with it.
I have the Axminster AW10BSB2 table saw.
As you do, first thing you remove is the guard and knife.
I wanted to use the guard for the dust extraction and reep the benefits of using a knife. But its very annoying and time consuming having to take these off when you want to pass the material over the blade and not through it.
Anyway thats stuff you know.
Im one for having everything, i wanted the guard to be quick release (which it was) but the riving knife to be a few mm under the saw blade so material can pass over the knife without having to remove it. My first idea was to cut the knife down and dill in the holes for the quick release. This would mean only a max of 48mm could pass under guard before it needed removing and the saw blade would be protruding the work piece over an inch. Also you could never retract the blade into the table with the guard on, so i set about making this.
Best of all it didn't cost anything, everything used was laying around the shop. All timber is American White Oak. The build is a bit crude as i didn't take the time to make test pieces and tinker with test pieces.
The leg that supports the arm has a fixed pivot point, the handle on top screws into a T nut. This bolt adjusts the height of the guard if you need to set it out the way or at a given height.
I attached the guard to the arm using some nuts and bolts which also has a little play (when loose) encase the guard didn't sit inline with the saw blade.
The finger joint you can see on the arm near the guard extents the length of the arm and adjusts the angle of the guard. When you raise the arm the guard wouldn't sit 90deg to the table and the angle of the arm would mean the guard wasn't sitting over the middle of the saw blade. This is simply just a bolt, some washers and a wing nut. I made 3 holes in each piece then joined the holes to make one long hole ofr the bolt to slide in. Undoing the wing nut you can pull the guard or push it to adjust the arms reach or pivot the guard.
The riving knife i just cut down and filed.
The beauty of having the arm pivot enabled the guard to rise with the riving knife. I put a little bit of wood in the guard where the knife used to sit so as the knife risen it hit the wood and raised the guard.
Also this meant i didn't have to be accurate with setting the height of the guard correct before each cut as when you pass material under the guard it also raises due to the pivot, keeping the guard always in contact with the work.
I attached the support leg to the leg of the saws extension tables. I staggered the bolt holes to counter any rocking.
I'm quite happy with it.
