Couple of tips I picked up at Yandles

[Anonymous]

Spending a day with Philly, Dc and Mike Riley, one had to pick up quite a few tips and have a great time.

I reckon that a couple of tips I picked up from DC that I have now tried out, are worth passing on.

DC had 3 planes with him: block, the Stanley 5.5 and LN 5.5. After playing for a bit and being impressed with their performance, He passed me the LN 5.5 and said 'try that'
So, I did and it worked very nicely no matter which way he clamped the wood (with or against the grain). A 15 degrees backbevel of course, which is nothing new to most of us, but what was new is the size only around 0.2mm wide which may be unintuitive to many.
Makes sense as it is only likely to be used on a smoother taking very fine shavings of perhaps a few thou.
The plane was a little harder to push than the Stanley, but DCs other tip was to polish plane soles with wire wool and Solvol Autosol. Fantastic! works more-or-less as well as candle wax but leaves o residue on the wood and is not required very often


Tried both and the difference is very impressive, so:
Hone very small back bevels (0.2mm), they work great (planed a cherry table top with very curly grain today with one, no problem) and are easily removed
Polish plane soles with wire wool and Autosol and throw the candle in the bin :wink:

 

[Anonymous]

Forgot to say that I used the Veritas mkII honing guide which may be set to 15 degrees or less for back bevels with repeatable results.

I set it to 10 degrees (york pitch plane - 50 degrees to start, giving the same effective angle of 60 degrees) and 5 passes on the 15 micron paper geot the back bevel cut. 5 on the 5 micron and 5 on the 0.5 micron got it gleaming and smooth.

For the sole I ran it over 40 grit wet and dry a few times (again mounted on MDF) and then polished with 0000 wire wool and Solvol Autosol (aluminium polish often used on motorcycle casings and wheels in the 70's and 80's).
DC told me he only goes to 240 grit, but i had some 400 lying around...


The only question remaining is will it keep the edge as long?

 

[MarcW]

Tony,

I can't believe it [-( you were out at Yandles and spent a day with Philly, Mike Riley and DC and no pictures were made. Mh, no Tony, I can't believe, no picture, it didn't happen. :roll: :lol:

Thank you for the tips. I never heard of a backbevel of as high as 15° 8) I'll try that. Maybe another decent reason to get a new plane

 

[Paul Chapman]

Pictures in this thread, Marc https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/view ... 0&start=75

Scroll down a bit.

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[MarcW]

Many thanks, Paul

 

[Paul Chapman]

Philly,

What happened to the pictures you took?

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[Anonymous]

Tony,

I can't believe it [-( you were out at Yandles and spent a day with Philly, Mike Riley and DC and no pictures were made. Mh, no Tony, I can't believe, no picture, it didn't happen. :roll: :lol:

Thank you for the tips. I never heard of a backbevel of as high as 15° 8) I'll try that. Maybe another decent reason to get a new plane

here you go - from the camera of Philly with DC and Mike looking on (not sure why I look so pained, but then I am using DCs 'best' plane :wink: )

Anyone else tried the Autosol on plane sole trick?

What size back bevel doyou suually hone (mine used to be around 1mm or more)?

 

[Paul Chapman]

Anyone else tried the Autosol on plane sole trick?

I've tried it and it works well. Also good for polishing the end of the cap iron which often gets gunged up with resin and stuff from the wood.

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[MarcW]

...
here you go - from the camera of Philly with DC and Mike looking on (not sure why I look so pained, but then I am using DCs 'best' plane :wink: )
...
Anyone else tried the Autosol on plane sole trick?

What size back bevel doyou suually hone (mine used to be around 1mm or more)?

I use to use a car polish - it is not Autosol - on the plane soles, following the recommendation of David in one of his videos. It works fine, but the effect diminishes quite fast and I have an oily rag (Camelia oil) that puts a fine film on the soles and leaves no traces.

I hone back bevels no wider than half a mm on plane irons. That is already wide, because I like them to disappear by sharpening.

I don't know if you look pained, but David seems to enjoy the moment :lol:

p.s. The bronze #4 in the background - did it fall off the shelf? And what planes are in those black cardboard boxes, I've never seen those?

 

[Paul Chapman]

And what planes are in those black cardboard boxes, I've never seen those?

Cliftons - the boxes are dark blue.

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[newt]

Tony, I am probabley wrong but I thought DC said the back bevel was 25 degrees, giving a total effective pitch of 70 degrees.

 

[Anonymous]

Tony, I am probably wrong but I thought DC said the back bevel was 25 degrees, giving a total effective pitch of 70 degrees.

Hey Newt, don't know if he mentioned 70 degrees. To me he said 15 for 60, but I guess it depends on the wood. He even name dropped and said that he had told Tom Lie Nielsen that 50 degree frog was too little difference (I have to agree and have said since buying my York pitch frog 4 years or so ago that it makes very little if any difference to performance)

 

[woodbloke]

The Autosol trick and 0000g wire wool is definitely a good one and really does work, tho' I suspect it needs to be done a few times on a plane sole to become effective...I've done all mine now.
Regarding the back bevel on MrC's LN 5.5, it was 25deg 'cos I asked him and that's wot the man said :lol: - Rob

 

[MarcW]

...
Regarding the back bevel on MrC's LN 5.5, it was 25deg 'cos I asked him and that's wot the man said :lol: - Rob

Wow, 45° + 25° make an EP of almost scraping - for me. My range of smoothers stopped with a #164 (60° EP) Now I'm glad to here someone passed this borderline. I will follow :lol:

 

[Anonymous]

Regarding the back bevel on MrC's LN 5.5, it was 25deg 'cos I asked him and that's wot the man said :lol: - Rob

Interesting and VERY steep :shock: When I spoke to him about back bevels, he said 15 degrees was about right, but that was before the LN 5.5 made an appearance and we were 'setting up shop' at the time.

He again mentions 60 degrees as a suitable back bevel here


I might try 25 degrees and see how it works on some very interesting yew I have that is proving to be pretty unfriendly to the plane

 

[tnimble]

This weekend I experimented with a backbevel. I tried it out at 10 degrees which gives 55 degrees EP. It defenitly gave improved performance (planed some oak). Only a few strokes on my 1000 grit norton stone made the back bevel about 0.5mm wide. The edge seemed to hold up about the same as without the bvackbevel (O1 steel blade).

While resharpening the blade I found it harder to get it as sharp as I normally get them. Probably due to the amount the blade protrudes the honing guide. From the cutting edge of the blade up to the wheel of the honing guide (Veritas MKII) as only a couple of cm shorter than the norton water stones. Also the contraption is a bit hard to hold. Honing a 15 or 20 degrees back bevel woul surely solve that minor problem.

As for the plane sole. After flattening (if needed) the sole I go upto about 240 grit wet and dry. After that I buff out any remaining visual imperfections with 000 wirewool. Then I polish the sole with blue rouge. After this I let some oil soke (I currently use Boeshield T-9 with which I'm very impressed) into the metal and buff it out.

With the cap iron, I put on a 45 degrees angle on the front on my 1000 grit norton water stone. I flatten the underside on a 400 grit ezelap diamond stone. Then take it to the 8000 water stone to get rid of the wire edge and pre polish both the 45 degrees bevel and the underside. Then I give it a cosmetical buff on the buffing wheel (except for the front edge) Then with some paper towel and blue jewellers rouge followed by green jewellers rouge I give it a finial polish.

No need to 'candle' or wax the plane at all.

 

[Benchwayze]

Anyone else tried the Autosol on plane sole trick?

I'm never without Autosol in my workshop.
It deals with light rust on most metals, but its forte is ally! As you say, the 'Ton-up' kids loved it... didn't we?

Regards
John