Continuing Problems Setting Planer Knife Height.

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pollys13

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Somethings Not Right?........ But...... what?

This conversion kit converts the Metabo HC260 planer/thicknesser from disposable blade fitting to accept HSS blades. I bought so I could use HSS resharpenable knives. I could use the planer knife sharpening jig on my Scheppach wet stone grinder.

https://www.metabo.com/uk/en/accessorie ... 0845.html#

I then bought 3 pairs of Metabo HC260C HSS Resharpenable Planer Blades, advertised exactly as such from Woodford Woodworking Machinery Tooling Ltd on Ebay

In the New Brit Workshop, how to set planer blades https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1uXh1fx6JE0 he sets the knife height by the moving ruler method. He is using an Electra Beckum 260 planer/thicknesser. I understand Metabo took over Electra Beckum after they went bust. The Metabo HC 260 is a clone of the EB. 3 minutes into video you can see he has the same locking bar, with the wheeled flange bolt, the same design of lock bar as the one in the conversion kit.

By moving the flange wheel on the end of the bolt up and down the height of the knives can be set. The blades he uses have a notch in them that the flange wheel on the end of the bolts in the lock bar fit into. On the Metabo HC 260 resharpenable knives I bought from Woodford they have no notch or slot for the flange wheel to fit into.

I tried fitting the knives so the bottom edge of the knife rests on top of the little flange on the bolt. When I have the knives, set at their lowest height they can go, they move the rule forward by..... 18mm over the line, yes 18mm!

With the original Metabo lock bar that accepted the disposable blades, I could set the ruler to move say 7mm one end of cutter head and about 5mm the other. This was a very hit and miss approach, a real fath and takes hours, hours of trying to get everything set right.New Brit Workshop says movement should be 5mm.

The disposable blade on the original Metabo lock bar the edge is 2.5mm above the bar. The resharpenable blades edge when the blade is set in its lowest position in the new conversion lock bar is is 3.5mm above the lock bar.

After looking at New Brit Workshop seemed a much easier way to adjust the knife height.Using a knife with a notch for the little wheel to fit in. My experience so far suggests moving the flange wheels to raise the knife is a lot easier and loads faster than fathing about with the 3 grub screw type bolts in the original lock bar.

A forum member very kindly came over to show me how he used to set the knives up on his Metabo HC 260 planer. We ran some timber through and at the time thought that was now fine. On checking with square I could see some minute views of light. I thought that even though might not be perfect it was acceptable within tolerance range. I sent a PM to a forum member, who said no, should be no light visible when checking for square.

I attach some photos of planer lock bars.In photo A the conversion lock bar and resharpenable blade are positioned in the cutter head, with the original lock bar and disposable blade sitting on the table to the left of it. Photo B is a side view of the original lock bar and disposable blade. I bought an Empire precision combination square to draw the ruler 5mm line ups across the table.
I sse there are other planer knives that have a notch or slot in them.
Trying to get the planer properly set up is starting...... to get..... a trifle exasperating:)
Any advice, suggestions much appreciated.
 

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I have the Electra Bekum model of this planer and while it was a pain in the a** to set the blades I was able to get them set correctly but I decided to look at alternatives and I now use these http://www.advancedmachinery.co.uk/mach ... system-382
Slight alteration to the tables to adjust scales etc and now can change blades in 5 minutes not cheap but I just could not justify the price of a new planer and they set the same every time no mucking around and they give a nice clean cut and seem to last a good length of time hope that helps.
Jim
 
Ring":2bqtgvkl said:
I have the Electra Bekum model of this planer and while it was a pain in the a** to set the blades I was able to get them set correctly but I decided to look at alternatives and I now use these http://www.advancedmachinery.co.uk/mach ... system-382
Slight alteration to the tables to adjust scales etc and now can change blades in 5 minutes not cheap but I just could not justify the price of a new planer and they set the same every time no mucking around and they give a nice clean cut and seem to last a good length of time hope that helps.
Jim
Hi thanks, I think you told me about this before, I've had a look thanks, and contacted them to be sure there knife holder and knives would be suitable for the Metabo, they said , aand as you say quick and easy and accurate setting, though expensive. As I mentioned, the Metabo conversion kits locking bar seems a lot easier to adjust than the one that came with the machine fitted with the disposable blades.

Spent about 1 hour one finger typing editing info and photos, Metabo part number on conversion lock bar, sent all info to tech support. Am also about to send same to Woodford I have a feeling they have sent the wrong knives. The correct ones should have a notch or slot for the flange wheel to fit in. Looking around I see planer knives with a notch or slot is a quite common design feature.
Cheers.
 
Polly - apologies but can I just hijack your post for a quick reply please.
Thanks for the post Jim.
I too have an EB HC260 and whilst I have changed the blades a few times without too much of a hassle, I suspect there was more good fortune rather than management involved.
In terms of the modification, is it just a question of the blade holder, new blade and then adjust the scale on the infeed?
If so, I think I'll be tempted as I'm sure I put off changing blades longer than I should due to the innumerable horror stories.
Thanks.
 
Hi, I had to move my outfield table up a couple of mill which is not hard to do couple of Alan bolts then just checked both tables where square and level with a good straight edge, then just adjust the height gauge with the 2 screws and check by putting some wood through the thicknesser and check the size to make sure it is set up correctly, and thats it when it comes to change the blades they have magnetic holder and the blades fall into place and are set by the magnetic holding bar tighten up the bolts and the blades are set.

Hope that helps Jim
 
Thanks Jim, that's brilliant. I think I'll invest and start changing my blades as often as I should.
Polly - sorry again and I hope you get your problem sorted.
 
Update.

I've think I've got this sorted so can start to use surface planer, everything had just ground to a halt, until I could square up timber. Anyway, after quite a bit of back and forth with Woodford Machinery explaining that their Metabo resharpenable blades don't fit in the Metabo resharpenable blade conversion kit.....Lots of uploading of photos and much...... one finger typing of explanation.

I bought three sets of their Electra Beckum 260 blades with slots in bottom, for the wheeled flange on the Metabo conversion kit to fit into. Blades came this morning, will have a go at fitting and update later today. Looking at the New Brit Workshop - setting planer blades on his Electra Beckum 260.

His machine has the same knife locking bar as the Metabo conversion kit. Accurate setting of planer knives using this locking bar and slotted blades seems a lot easier, than the endless fathing about with the three grub screws on the disposable blade locking bar. The Electra Beckum blades, much more expensive. £107.65 for three sets inc 10% discount, Woodford OK for me to return wrong resharpenable blades sent, for full refund including return recorded post. So if the Electra Beckum fit, adjust accurately and easily. Everyone a happy bunny.
 

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Update On The Update.
Tried fitting the Electra Beckum 260 knives in the the Metabo HC 260 conversion kit. I did ask Metabo if they did more than one type of conversion kit? They never came back to me. I've contacted Metabo several times to talk to one of their engineers, trying to set the planer knives correctly, last time I was told he had already spoken to me 3 times about this and flatness of tables. Last time was told he would ring me back, never did, last time we spoke, I did detect a certain tone on condescension, anyway, bla, bla.
I emailed Metabo asking which were the correct resharpenable blades to fit in their Metabo 0911030845 HC260 Blade Conversion Kit - Disposable > HSS.
They told me 0911030721 which they stock at.... approx 72 quid, yep 72 quid.
I ordered the Electra Beckum 260 planer resharpenable knives, which have a slot both ends on bottom, bought from Woodford on Ebay £35.88 get 10% discount if buy three sets, which I did. In Woodfords listing says same as the Metabo 0911030721, same as the part number Metabo gave.
I think these are correct and will do the job. The wheeled flange on the lock bar fits easily on the slot on the knives. I put a squirt of dry lubricant on the bolt threads on the flanges, and they move the knife up and down very easily and I expect will be straightforward to get an accurate level height adjustment.
The knife and lock bar won't fit into the cutter block. It looks like the bolt head is 1-2mm too thick for the knife and lock bar to seat together into the base of the cutter block.
I'm thinking could try and get bolts which are correct size but with a head that is 1-2mm thinner than the ones I have. Or ask my machinist mate if he can take 1-2mm off the heads.
 
If I am reading correctly you are locating the blade onto the adjusting block and trying to put the assembly into the cutter block? (hammer) (hammer)

Place the block (with the adjusting screws wound in fully) into the cutter block.

Then fit the blade, locating the blade slots on the adjusting screw flanges. This can be a “jiggle” until you have done it a few times.
 
Hemsby":3v5hzvp3 said:
If I am reading correctly you are locating the blade onto the adjusting block and trying to put the assembly into the cutter block? (hammer) (hammer)

Place the block (with the adjusting screws wound in fully) into the cutter block.

Then fit the blade, locating the blade slots on the adjusting screw flanges. This can be a “jiggle” until you have done it a few times.
Ah.... bingo.... thats how its done :) As you say a bit of a fiddle. Now.... so easy to get the knife to move up and down now, compared to the little grub screws on the original disposable blades lock bar.
Your advice has been a great help I should be able to get on now. Thanks loads :)
If I couldn't have made any progress, the only other option I was aware of, was the ESTA Knife System with self setting blades. These are disposable. I understand I can grind a different bevel angle on resharpenable blades if working difficult grain. I have a Scheppach wet stone grinder and the Tormek planer knife sharpening jig to fit on it.
Thanks again.
 
pollys13":3dq43tj0 said:
I understand I can grind a different bevel angle on resharpenable blades if working difficult grain.

For difficult grain and highly figured timbers you can lightly hone a small back bevel, but that's not quite the same thing as grinding a different angle.

One other thing to bear in mind, you'll often get a far better finish from the thicknesser than you will from the planer (because of the smoother power feed and constant mechanical hold down). So if you see some tear out from the planer then don't jump to the conclusion that it's inevitable, only if you're also getting tear out from the thicknesser do you need to think of another plan.

To illustrate the point here's a couple of thick board ends of highly figured Maple. These were left over from a previous project and were effectively scrap, however they might just yield the show timbers for a pair of occasional tables. Occasional tables always sell well, especially in dramatic timbers, so rather than run them through the wood burner I decided to try and turn off-cuts into profit.

Maple-Billets-01.jpg


The problem was previous experience had shown these boards were very prone to planer tear out, and there wasn't enough thickness for multiple passes through the P/T.

Maple-Billets-02.jpg


Maple-Billets-03.jpg


In order to conserve every scrap of useable thickness for deep ripping I hand planed one face true using a closely set cap iron,

Maple-Billets-04.jpg


Having established a true reference face, from then on I only used the thicknesser. The result was clean, tear out free timber that was thick enough to yield the necessary components.

Maple-Billets-05.jpg
 

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Hello guys
I know this post is old but i have been trying for a long time to set my knives proprrly on the Metabo HC260. Even with the table infeed and outfeed flat and square one end of the blade always seemed higher with the grub screws almost out of the top so no way interfering. It drove me mad and the blades were Metabo supplied new with the machine. Reading this forum i understand i am not the problem (albeit that i think i now have it all squared up). So finally the question is which of all the ones above is the most highly recommended?
 
Hello guys
I know this post is old but i have been trying for a long time to set my knives proprrly on the Metabo HC260. Even with the table infeed and outfeed flat and square one end of the blade always seemed higher with the grub screws almost out of the top so no way interfering. It drove me mad and the blades were Metabo supplied new with the machine. Reading this forum i understand i am not the problem (albeit that i think i now have it all squared up). So finally the question is which of all the ones above is the most highly recommended?

I'm having similar issues, having spent a very frustrating hour or two trying to get one blade sorted but still failing. I can't see how the supplied knife block is expected to work, as adjusting the grub screws moves the whole block up and down, it usually ends up with the clamping bolts binding and stopping it moving it properly. The alternative is to leave the bolts looser, but then the knife doesn't reliably stay in place. Even when you can get the 4-6mm movement on both ends of the knife, tightening the bolts moves the knife and you're back to square one.

It looks like a replacement knife system is the only sane way of resolving this, with the only sensible options being:

The conversion kit

+ shouldn't require altering table positions
- availability isn't clear
requires using resharpenable knives, not sure if that is a pro or a con.

or

The Esta Bruck system

+ no adjustment required
+ cheaper knives
- about £150
- may require changing table positions

Not sure which way to go!
 
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