COMP063 - Competition-curvey storage WIP

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Well I thought I'd better pull my finger out and post some pics.
My wife has been in need of some storage in the kitchen for the wee ones toys and as we seem to spend most of out time in there an extra seat wouldn't go a miss.

Here’s the start, a nice fresh piece of oak. Well several lengths to be exact.

I almost always start using autocad to get an idea of shape and size sometimes I go a bit further and produce cutting list etc but this time just some rough sketches. I then transferred it onto a bit of white faced hardboard to use as a template. I’m hoping that takes care of the curves bit.

Then the planning and thicknessing begins. The project it entirely made out of solid oak with the exception of a piano hinge for the STORAGE box lid. Oh and a bit of glue!!

First time posting pics - so finger crossed

anyone help with reducing the size of the pics?


More to follow…..



Andy

 

[AndyG]

Andy,
There's a good free graphics tool called The GIMP. Despite the rather odd name it is a very mature bit of software, and well worth a look.
Try here and here for some more windows based info.
Good luck with the rest of the project
Andy

 

[dedee]

Another Andy enters the competition.

It is looking good from here. Only 9 days to go though.

Andy

 

[SketchUp Guru]

Looks good so far.

As to resizing the pictures, here's another option. Get Picasa for FREE! Crop and doctor your pictures as you like and then use the Export function in the file menu to export the select images at a give size. It doesn't change the original image files but creates a folder of the resized images.

http://picasa.google.com/

 

[Anonymous]

Andy, I think you need a chip collector

 

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Thanks all for the help with photo resizing.
Tony I actually have dust collection but don't use it when I'm planning mode, only thicknessing. I find it too fiddly to attach. It's not long before the chips go on the bonfire.

Well as the deadline was looming I got a bit carried away and have made some good progress. Unfortunately I have glued up without any interim photo's. Anyway here is where I am now.
I cut the rebates with my T11 router and also used the router to chamfer the edges at 45. The end sections were cut out using my trusty old jigsaw and then sanded to remove the blade marks.

To keep the grain the same across the seat; the seat was made as one piece I then cut length ways for the hinge and then two perpendicular cuts for the sides. The sides where then glued back together with the back. The seat was then screwed to the back with a piano hinge.

I didn’t have time to get a brass hinge and ended up with a plated one.
My plan was to carve flowers in the hand holds at the circle. I decided that I’ll carve an additional piece and glue it on. My carving skill aren’t any good and I would hate to duff it up.

I used titebond II glue and was very worried about the temperature as I could only muster 6 deg in the workshop while I was glueing. All the oak strips were jointed with biscuits. Single for the seat back, seat and front. Double for the two sides for a bit of strength.

Here's a pic of the under seat storage

I think the wife will be pleased….

Andy

 

[Chris Knight]

Andy,
You certainly have been steaming along!

I do have a concern that you might have created massive potential for cross grain/long grain failures if I have understood correctly the places you have glued the various bits.

 

[syntec4]

Nice Work Andy. Well done.

Lee.

 

[gwaithcoed]

Lovely piece of work Andy, Well done

Alan.

 

[Offcut]

Thanks for the comments

Chris
I did put a wee bit of thought into the assembly to try and reduce and problems with opposing grain. The front panel is only glued to the sides and is 10mm short of the floor and 5mm short of the seat. This should allow it to expand and contract without stress. The seat is made up of a about 4 planks and is glued to the sides in a rebate. I had presumed that because the grain direction is parallel it shouldn't be a problem. The seat back is the tricky bit. I didn't glue it to the seat but screwed it with brass screws from underneath the seat. It was fully glued to the sides also in a rebate. The back of the box is also short of the ground and the seat so much like the front and again shouldn’t have much problems. The base of the box rests on strips of oak glued to the sides, front and back but is left loose. I think the worst bit is the seat back where I might find problems when I bring it indoors. Only time will tell. let me know if I could have done something differently.

On another note the carving of the flowers isn’t going well. Here’s my first attempt. Used some scrap test pieces. I carved out a circle then tried to carve out sort of angles for petals :? May have to go with plan B – what ever that is!!!

Andy

 

[Chris Knight]

Andy,
From your description, there is still a fair length of glue line in the cross grained situation - perhaps you could say how long it is? In my experience, anything over four inches can be a problem but of course it does depend on how much the RH changes from the situation when the wood was glued up.

I know just how frustrating carving can be! Here is a sequence of cuts that Chris Pye taught me to make simple flowers, rosettes and the like. You nee only a Vee tool and a couple of gouges , an 8mm fishtail #3 and I think an 8mm #6 were used here:-

 

[Offcut]

Sheesh - very good indeed. Almost like a story board.

I don't think I have the ability to produce something like that in 8 days.

Thanks for the info on the chisels - looks like a wee trip to the local tool store is required - now I have a shopping list

A quick question if I may. I found that when I chesel 90 deg to the grain the wood tends to crush. I presume this is down to chisel sharpness?

Andy

 

[dedee]

Andy, from my own experiance (and I'm not prepared to post a picture :lol: ) I do not think that oak is the easiest of woods on which to learn to carve.

Andy

 

[Colin C]

Andy, from my own experiance (and I'm not prepared to post a picture :lol: ) I do not think that oak is the easiest of woods on which to learn to carve.

Andy

You are right about oak not being the easiest to start with but if the grain is straight and its not to hard, its ok ( as long as you tools are sharp ).
That the bit that can take time ( getting them sharp )
Try lime for practicing cavring as it has no grain ( well not like pine or oak )
and is soft

 

[Chris Knight]

Andy,

Crushing the grain certainly indicates that the tool is not sharp AND/OR that the tool is not the right shape. Carving tools must be razor sharp, no question. However, it is also very important that the tool is shaped appropriately for the particular task and many new chisels come from the makers sharp but badly shaped. This is especially true for Vee tools.

I recommend Chris Pye's book on tools ( http://tinyurl.com/q3nvh) there is also a Vol 2 of this one. He can explain the process so much better than I!

Also Wlliam Wheeler and Charles Hayward's book "Woodcarving The Beginner's Guide" It is out of print but available on the second hand market. This is a very succinct and informative book.