Cock bead fixing

[Chris Knight]

Tim,

My 4010 has two removable plates, one to either side of the blade. I can replace these with a single bit of wood cut to the right dimensions (thickness and width, length, screw holes etc. I screwed this in place then raised the blade (10 inch for this operation) with the machine switched on and it makes it's own slot.

Now you have reminded me and IIRC correctly you would need to trim off the bits of metal to the RHS of your blade that "wrap" it front and rear. Then fill in the entire space left and right with a single piece of wood in a similar way to mine.

Re the hardboard - you are right, it only works at one setting. I normally have a couple of pieces near my saw (used to be for this sort of thing with the TS 2000 but also for setting/checking the fence on the sliding table ( a piece of hard board about two feet wide provides a better indication of a square cut than a rail three inches wide for example, so when I have used the fence for an odd angle, I check it is square before using it for critical cuts.

 

[RogerS]

Chris

....then just rout out the middle as you describe.....

I was trying to work out how I might do this using the 'Rat but came away stumped. Clearly the drawer front must lie horizontal underneath the plate but how do you hold it up tight and firm? You can get one brush clamped in the RH clamp but how would you support the left hand side of the drawer front?

Roger

 

[Chris Knight]

Roger,
This is one of those operations I don't do on the rat! It can be done I guess , simply using the brush to hold the drawer front against the plate and moving it around by hand but I reckon that is just being masochistic!

Easier by far and the way I have done similar drawer fronts (hollowed out - not cock-beaded) is to use the router table with suitably set stops or to use skates on a hand-held router - that way you can see what you are doing.

Alf may comment - she is happier doing that sort of thing with the Rat and may have a method.

 

[RogerS]

Chris

I'm encouraged...that's the conclusion that I came to. It's as you've always said...horses for courses...or in this case a 'non-runner'!

Roger

 

[Alf]

I was trying to work out how I might do this using the 'Rat but came away stumped. Clearly the drawer front must lie horizontal underneath the plate but how do you hold it up tight and firm?

You'm want a table, Rog:

Doesn't have to be that posh with all those inserts of course, but that's the principle.

Cheers, Alf

P.S. Wasn't it you who was wondering when you use the rising plates? Well there's an example.

 

[Aragorn]

What TS do you have? ... I have a Sheppach 2500 .. and while I haven't tried it, I suspect that the horizontal gap between blade and Table top will swallow the bead.

Tim, I have the Kity 1619. Yes as Chris says, you'll need a zero clearance insert for short lengths. The Scheppach arrangement is pretty weird, and is exactly the reason why I didn't buy a Scheppach TS at the time I was upgrading - didn't fancy trying to make inserts for that saw!

If you are cutting longer lengths of bead (or any smaller material for that matter) there would be enough material left on the outfeed side to stop the blade pulling it through the table top.
When I'm machining delicate pieces like this, I will almost always cut way too long a length - it just feels safer than fiddling about with little pieces.

 

[tim]

at the time I was upgrading

Aaaah - the time of the upgrading - a mythical date in the future when all my tools will be the right ones, bought for proper reasons, not because of price points, looks, duff reviews, no idea, the tool I wanted being on back order so I got the runner up..............

:lol: :roll: :wink:

Cheers

T

 

[RogerS]

Alf

You are a star! What an elegant solution.

Roger