Cleaning Rust From Hand Saws

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Rob_Mc

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Hi all,

I'm new to woodworking and inspired by some of the finds on this forum ventured out to my first ever car boot sale today on the lookout specifically for tools to start my collection. I was lucky enough to find 2 saws for a quid each (and an almost new black and decker workmate for a fiver). Both cut very nicely and look to be in reasonable underlying condition but need a good clean. Can anyone guide me on the best way to clean the light rust and other marks off the surface of them. One is a little brass backed Spear and Jackson dovetail saw with 'Spearior 52' etched on the plate. The other is a standard looking rip saw with 'Disston D8 7 points' etched on the side.

My first post so be gentle ;-)
 
If it's just light rust, all you need is some fine wet'n'dry paper, wrapped around a block of wood (ideally a cork sanding block) and lubricated with WD40 or white spirit.

For heavier rust, start off with a wallpaper scraper or the sort of scraper with a Stanley blade in, as used for getting paint off windows.

Stay away from the teeth to avoid ripping the paper.
 
For light rust I use wire wool and turps as it don't leave scratches like some sand paper can.
 
Will try the wet & dry approach on the Spear & Jackson. The rust on the Disston is very light so will give the wire wool approach a try. Thanks for the advice.
 

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I forgot to say - when cleaning, rest the saw on a scrap piece of wood so that the handle is off the bench and the blade is flat. Sorry if that is too obvious!
 
When I've removed surface rust in the past for car restorations I've found Deox c to work best as it removes only the rust and no sound metal.
It comes as a powder to make a bath or as a gel thats dabbed on then rubbed over with wire wool.
You can see in the photo how it leaves pitted metal after removing heavy rusting on a plate that's no longer available.
110920081223.jpg
 
AndyT":3o95hk7w said:
If it's just light rust, all you need is some fine wet'n'dry paper, wrapped around a block of wood (ideally a cork sanding block) and lubricated with WD40 or white spirit.

For heavier rust, start off with a wallpaper scraper or the sort of scraper with a Stanley blade in, as used for getting paint off windows.

Stay away from the teeth to avoid ripping the paper.

If you make a tiny (really, around 2mm) rebate on a length of scrap, you can cover the tooth tips, and clean really close to the edge quite easily.

http://web.archive.org/web/200909040255 ... eeth_guard

BugBear
 
If you want to preserve any writing / embossing on your tools then abrasive is not the way to go. Electrolosis is a simple and easy way to remove rust without doing any damage to the tool.
Have a look here to see how.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=54ADeB6V1rQ He does it very professionally but if you have a look at a few other video's you will see some real DIY set-ups.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AQNvhUYq ... =fvwp&NR=1
By the way, you may see some of them using Stainless steel,,, don't, it makes a mess.

Andy
 
Alternatively, dependant on the metal your saw is made from , there may be very little rust to remove..
saw this on ebay..

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/251250507...DWX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1435.l2649#ht_82wt_1200

although this was described as a saw from Sheffield, I think this is a butcher's meat saw , 'Smithfield' gives it away, and and a stainless steel blade is difficult to sharpen..
Be interested to hear anyone else's opinion :?:
Cheers!
 
Never underestimate the ability of ebay sellers to get things wrong!

To be fair, you could say it's an interesting example of how we read what we expect to see (Sheffield) rather than what is actually there (Smithfield). I'm sure you are right and it will be ideal for a spot of wood butchering!
 
SteveB43":19xomi34 said:
Alternatively, dependant on the metal your saw is made from , there may be very little rust to remove..
saw this on ebay..

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/251250507...DWX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1435.l2649#ht_82wt_1200

although this was described as a saw from Sheffield, I think this is a butcher's meat saw , 'Smithfield' gives it away, and and a stainless steel blade is difficult to sharpen..
Be interested to hear anyone else's opinion :?:
Cheers!

I've seen those saws in old catalogues - they always look like a hygeine nightmare - all sorts of inaccessible area that you can't clean!

BugBear
 
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