Circular Saw Blades

[Mark A]

Hi chaps,

I have two saws with imperial-sized arbors (1 1/8" and 1 3/8" respectively)

Three questions:

(1) Anyone know of a supplier who can rebore a blade to the above diameters?

(2) Alternatively, how difficult would it be to enlarge the bore of a standard blade myself? Drill out the bulk, grind/file and then finish off with emery cloth wrapped around a suitably sized cylindrical thing is what I had in mind.

(3) Where can I get a pair of custom reduction bushes? I'd prefer this over (1) and (2) as I could buy blades off the shelf as and when.


Thanks,
Mark

 

[pcb1962]

1. I don't
2. You would need to put the blade in a lathe and bore it, there is no way that you could retain sufficient concentricity by drilling / filing (IMO)
3. Anyone with a lathe should be able to make these for you

 

[Racers]

I had some drilled out on a drill press, you need a silver steel rod the same size as the bore clamped in the chuck to centre the blade, clamp the blade down swap to a drill and off you go.

Pete

 

[Mark A]

Hi chaps,

Thanks for the advice.

I had a blade laser-cut to the correct bore last year for a very reasonable price; however the qupte for these two blades is considerably more than I was expecting.

##EDITED##

I did ask whether anyone would be willing to produce a pair of reduction bushes for me, but after looking at the saw that idea wouldn't work as there isn't enough meat on the flange to support a larger diameter blade.

So... would anyone be willing to turn down the flanges on a lathe for me?

I'll follow with pictures of what I mean a bit later.

Cheers,
Mark

 

[Mark A]

Hi chaps,

Some pictures:

Saw No.1

I would require this flange turned down from 1.116" / 28.36mm to... I'm not entirely sure yet. Probably a hair's breadth less than 1" / 25.4mm as that's a pretty common size of blade. I'll contact Doug @ Cutting Solutions to confirm.

Saw No. 2

This saw is my latest addition and hasn't been overhauled yet.
I would require this flange turned down from 1.371" / 34.82mm to a smidgen under 30mm.

It shouldn't take more than 10 minutes to do. If anyone's up to it I'd be happy to send over some beer/tool tokens.

Anyone? :mrgreen:

Mark

 

[dickm]

Are those two flanges splined on to the drive shaft? The first one would be a relatively simple job to turn down UNLESS it's hardened, but not sure about the second. It looks like it's designed to take a blade with a centre hole which is not a circle, but has two chords to provide a positive drive. Might be a bit dodgy trying to fit a blade with a circular hole, even if the curved sections were turned down to relevant diameter.
Somewhere in the mists of time, I had an example of Saw no 1, but it was painted gold. It developed an earth leakage, so was not the safest of things to use............

 

[Mark A]

Are those two flanges splined on to the drive shaft? The first one would be a relatively simple job to turn down UNLESS it's hardened, but not sure about the second. It looks like it's designed to take a blade with a centre hole which is not a circle, but has two chords to provide a positive drive. Might be a bit dodgy trying to fit a blade with a circular hole, even if the curved sections were turned down to relevant diameter.
Somewhere in the mists of time, I had an example of Saw no 1, but it was painted gold. It developed an earth leakage, so was not the safest of things to use............

Hi Dick,

I have two other saws which have squared off flanges and it makes no difference - the Ripsnorter and a 45lb Wolf monster.

The flanges are splined onto the shafts of all my vintage saws (maybe not my Skil, but that's a bit different anyway).

Mark