Circular saw - Any recs?

[TonyW]

Feeling the urge to spend a little money on a new circular saw to replace my ageing Bosch (limited cutting depth). I have been looking at something like the Hitachi C7BU2 Here. At first look it does seem to offer a reasonable spec. Power input 1200w, max cutting depth 66mm and lowish weight of 4.0kg.

Has anyone any experience of this model or care to rec. any comparables from the other manufacturers?

Cheers
Tony

 

[wizer]

I have that Hitachi and highly recommend it.

 

[OPJ]

I have a larger Hitachi saw (9in. blade) and find it has plenty of power and is very comfortable to use.

 

[matthewwh]

'taint the saw, it's the blade that makes most of the difference to performance. Having said that Hitachi are luuverly tools to use, you won't regret it.

 

[Tony Spear]

care to rec. any comparables from the other manufacturers?

Cheers
Tony

I've got a Makita 5903 permanently mounted in a Triton and a 5703 for hand-held use. I've had them for several years and I'm delighted with them.

In fact, I originally had the 5703 mounted in the Triton, but got a bit pineappled off with the limited cutting depth, so when the opportunity to aquire the 5903 came up I nearly bit the bloke's hand off!

 

[Boz62]

I have the Hitachi C7BU2 as well. The light weight was the clincher for me. Came with a good blade as well. It's accurate and gives repeatable results.

My only nit-picking criticism is that if you attach the dust extractor nozzle it won't fit in it's storage case :evil:.

Boz

 

[TonyW]

Thanks guys, looks like the Hitachi gets a thumbs up. Now to decide if I really need the bigger one :lol:

Appreciate that the blade plays a big part in performance & quality of cut - any particular recommendations here?

Cheers
Tony

 

[OPJ]

Most will recommend Freud or CMT without hesitation (and with good reason! ). I think these blades from Atkinson Walker are worth a look, even though I haven't yet tried one myself. :wink:

 

[chippy1970]

I had two of the older Hitachi 7 " saws great quality but I now use a makita the problem I found with the Hitachi's is that the cast base breaks easily if dropped

I have managed to break two now so went over to using the Makita http://www.dm-tools.co.uk/product.php/s ... /MAK5703RK.
these ones have a pressed steel base more hard wearing for site use and if I need something more acurate I use my TS55.

 

[Streepips]

I bought a Makita 5704 last week, only 190mm blade but thats fine for me and trim work, also the blade is a swapover with my LS 7014 CMS.
Very happy with both .

 

[chippy1970]

I bought a Makita 5704 last week, only 190mm blade but thats fine for me and trim work, also the blade is a swapover with my LS 7014 CMS.
Very happy with both .

You shouldnt be using a normal circular saw blade in a compound mitre saw if that is what you are doing its very dangerous.

Mitre saw have blades with negative rake circular saws dont.

 

[Streepips]

Thanks for the info, and yes I know. My choice.

 

[chippy1970]

Thanks for the info, and yes I know. My choice.

It sure is :?

 

[wizer]

Is it really dangerous? I don't think it is.

 

[OPJ]

It is more dangerous than using a blade with a negative rake angle. If your saw's a non-slider though, you may be okay, as there's no risk of the blade catching and running along the tops of your fingers! :?

 

[Streepips]

I am quite comfortable with the way I work, thats not saying I would encourage or endorse it, it just suits me. We each have our various foibles. habits and individual ways of working. When instructing or advising others then the most safe way of working must be paramount in that instruction. I agree with that.
My crosscut is indeed a slider, the little 4 rail one ( Makita).
I am aware of the blade grab and roll, or "climbing" happens a lot on radial arm saws with blunt blades when set up for very shallow cuts. I think thats what scares people off them.

I use 40 tooth blades on these two saws of mine, ( 190mm) and they are high speed of course, and sharp. all of which reduce the climbing effect.
Also. when cutting small dimension work the slider is locked, when cutting wider pieces the slider is unlocked and the carriage is extended then brought down and a push cut made rather than a pull cut.
Its usually a combination or variety of factors that can cause a climb cut, I am aware that it can happen and I work in such a way as to prevent it happening.

 

[sometimewoodworker]

I bought a Makita 5704 last week, only 190mm blade but thats fine for me and trim work, also the blade is a swapover with my LS 7014 CMS.
Very happy with both .

You shouldnt be using a normal circular saw blade in a compound mitre saw if that is what you are doing its very dangerous.

Mitre saw have blades with negative rake circular saws dont.

Sorry that is not true for circular saws. A blade designed for laminates has a negative rake the Tenru PSL-16048ABM2 is an example for the TS55
http://meekings.selfip.com/photo-groups/more-groups/2009/Tenryu_Saw_blades/Pages/P1070067.html
http://meekings.selfip.com/photo-groups/more-groups/2009/Tenryu_Saw_blades/Pages/P1070070.html

 

[FatFreddysCat]

I think that you last two guys are in danger of sending mixed messages. Negative rake blades were introduced for radial arm and chop saws to reduce the tendency of the blade to lift workpieces and they work well in that respect, better than positive rake blades. Using an aggressively positive rake blade on a radial arm saw will always tend to lift the work place which for an inexperienced user is certainly more dangerous. I agree that using a blunt blade on any crosscut saw can be scary, but the answer is simple - get it sharpened!

Negative rake blades such as the Tenyru laminate blade can indeed be used on a portable power saw, but any such blade will have a much greater tendency to kickback than a zero or positive rake (conventional) blade which the user must be aware of. I suspect that very few people ever have the experience of needing or using such blades.