Chunk out of bit brace handle

[Rhyolith]

Finally got a North Brothers brace, wanted one of these for a while

"Yankee" Brace by Rhyolith, on Flickr

Anyway as you can see there is a chuck missing from the central handle. Its not wood but a bakelite like stuff.

"Yankee" Brace (chunk out of handle) by Rhyolith, on Flickr

Any ideas how to fill in the hole without jamming the rotation?

 

[AndyT]

Assuming you will have to use some sort of plastic padding type filler, you could try smearing some grease on the metal parts (but not on the broken edges) then apply the filler, shaping to match after it's set. I'd probably give it a few turns while it's setting too.

 

[Vann]

Wot Andy said.

With a brace handle, you're not going to get it off for repair - so it's repair it in place (using Andy's suggested method) or replace it completely with a two-part handle (in a material of your choice). I don't know what Bakelite repair gunk is available - maybe just use bondiful (or bondo, or whatever you call it in UK).

I managed to acquire a 2100 and a 2101 at a reasonable price (I was surprised as they are the only two I've ever seen listed in NZ). The 2100 has one end of the selector broken, so the ratchet won't lock in one direction (i.e. it's useless without a repair).

Cheers, Vann.

 

[Rorschach]

WIth care you should be able to slip some tin foil down between the handle and the arm, then fill as you like, the filler will likely stick to the foil but that won't be a problem, the foil will soon rub away with use.

 

[AndyT]

Foil sounds a better idea than grease to me - easier to avoid contamination on the broken edges.

 

[Rorschach]

Foil sounds a better idea than grease to me - easier to avoid contamination on the broken edges.

It works well in these kinds of situations with a hidden area. Excess foil is easily trimmed after glue/filler is dry and then you just put a bit of lubricant under the moving part and work it around for a minute or so, the foil will crush down and form a smooth surface that is probably ugly and looks like a bodge job but since you can't see it then it doesn't really matter. You can use all sorts of things for the same job, pieces of plastic water bottle or food packaging work great for no moving parts but if the glue sticks then they can gum up and get in the way, no such trouble with foil.

 

[ED65]

Do you have any epoxy putties that set hard? If not epoxy adhesive mixed with hardwood dust to roughly the consistency of peanut butter makes an excellent filler. Add a spot of black paint for colour and you should get a very close match regardless of whether you're leaving this as it is or restoring it to a high level.

The brilliant thing about using epoxy is you don't really need to use a resist, since heating the metal afterwards will cause the epoxy to let go and you should be able to rotate the handle after just a little initial tug. If you'd prefer not to take a chance on this grease/wax away (but mask the break surfaces first).

Regardless of what you fill with you've got to degrease before anything else or the bond will be pants. Also worth drilling a few shallow holes at random angles into the cracked edges to lock the putty in place.

P.S. Nice find!

 

[Terry - Somerset]

You could replace it with wood of your choice.

There is a technique which involves glueing two pieces of wood together with a paper separator. Mount on the lathe using the glue line as the "centre". Turn the outside of the handle, then bore the centre hole (possibly using a couple of jubilee clips to reinforce the glued paper joint),

Once off the lathe the glued paper joint should separate easily with a sharp blade. It can then be re-glued in place around the brace.

Terry

 

[Rhyolith]

I defiantly want to repair, not replace... one wooden and one plastic/bakelite handle would look weird I think. Also I am away from my workshop at the mo, so have limited resources. No lathes or anything.

I have limited experience with glues and fillers, only what whats used on wooden boats (which is generally not suited to plastic). Any specific recommendations? Preferably things available in day to day DIY shops as thats whats local for me. The bakelite/plastic is black, so something black

Would epoxy react with bakelite/plastic? I don't have any anyway... but I know how strong it is

 

[AndyT]

This is the stuff I meant. Dark grey, available for 50 years or so.

http://www.loctite.co.uk/loctite-4087.h ... 2657107969

Used to be on display in Woolworth's but widely available in more successful shops.

 

[screwpainting]

I would fabricate the missing bit out of a colour matched epoxy lump by rough shaping (set the epoxy on clingfilm on the metal arm) and then sanding and nadgering it until it was a spot on fit. Then carefully super glue/epoxy it in place. I would avoid trying to fill it in situ,too easy to get in a mess.

Then drink beer.

 

[ED65]

Any specific recommendations? Preferably things available in day to day DIY shops as thats whats local for me. The bakelite/plastic is black, so something black

Poundland epoxy, hardwood sanding dust, small drop of black paint. You could use powdered charcoal in place of the wood dust and black paint, but you might want to grind it or sift it to make sure it's fine and uniform for best results.

Would epoxy react with bakelite/plastic?

Apparently no.

 

[Rhyolith]

Then drink beer.

Have never drunk a drop, Rose Lemonade all the way

Thanks all for the suggestions, will probably go with Andy's locite stuff as it invloves buying only one thing... which is really desirable with no workshop access (and thus paint, saw dust, etc... ).

 

[Phil Pascoe]

You could replace it with wood of your choice.

There is a technique which involves glueing two pieces of wood together with a paper separator. Mount on the lathe using the glue line as the "centre". Turn the outside of the handle, then bore the centre hole (possibly using a couple of jubilee clips to reinforce the glued paper joint),

Once off the lathe the glued paper joint should separate easily with a sharp blade. It can then be re-glued in place around the brace.

Terry

Not relevant to the OP, but you can also make it from a timber like ash - make it over length, drill it then split it and put it back together with hot melt, screws or jubilee clips through/around the ends then turn it. The two halves go back together on the split line, i.e. the grain, and will not be discernible. A bit of faffing about, but can be perfect.