Chisel Choice

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Have just finished prepping some AI and Sorby bench chisels, so haven't used much in earnest yet, but early indications are that I'm going to enjoy the Sorby's more. Relatively speaking, the AIs flattened like cheese on a grater (which was as well, given how bowed were the backs (which are also the faces - how Janian.) On the plus, they do have a very low (though inconsistant) side edge at the tip.

Steve
 
Japan Woodworker's white steel chisel got a FW gold star. These are made by a bloke called Matsumura. I haven't got any of his bench chisels, but just got some of his parers - very nice and a sensible price. (and none of the forging faults seen in recent Iyorii mentioned by DC)
 
Harbo wrote:
How much bashing are you supposed to give a bench chisel?

Suppose it really depends on what you're doing. At the end of the jour, you can belt them as hard as you like, after all they're your chisels. Wether they are designed to take that abuse is another matter. I use the LN bevel chisels and sometimes tap them with a lignum carvers mallet. I wouldn't dream of belting them really hard as if I were chopping a mortice. In yonder days, the firmer chisel was used more for robust work as the cross section of the blade was bigger than the same sized bevel edged chisel...don't seem to see them much these days. Like Alf, I don't like hoopy handled chisels and for that reason couldn't abide my Jap chisels, for fine paring I always ended up with a red weal in the palm of my right hand :( so they eventually went via the bay - Rob
 
I was really suggesting that you are not supposed to bash them so why the hoops?

I gave the Stanley's another sharpening today with a 5degree micro bevel so the cutting edge is now 30degrees. Having watched Garret Hack's videos some more I decided to give the backs a polish! I know the backs should be flat but his and some Ashley Iles (at a sharpening demo) were mirror polished. I tried first with the Tormek but its removal of steel even on the "lower" setting is frightening and I abandoned that for my waterstones. However it soon became obvious that they were not flat and needed lapping and I did not have time for that so out came a sheet of glass and some abrasive papers. I had read about it but never tried it and it worked a treat. With two grades of paper (180 & 320 ) and the Tormek leather they were mirror flat in no time at all.

On my search for some new chisels I have taken on most of your advice and am buying an example of each. Of different sizes so they will not be wasted. As a definitive trial this was a bit of a cock-up - the other criteria was they would not be of a size that came in a set in case I bought one? So today my first package arrived - a 38mm Bahco, a 32mm 2 Cherries and a 3/16 LN
Not a fair size comparison but it did give me a "feel"of the chisels.

The LN is very small and light, much like my old Addis gouges. But beautifully crafted with a lovely balance and feel. The handle is small (but it would not be difficult to make longer ones - yes I know you can buy them) that fits within the palm comfortably. The back was very flat and the edge sharp though the advice is to give the 30degree bevel another 5 degree micro bevel.
The 2 Cherries is quite a brute with hoops and end cap on an octagonal handle and is the longest of the group. It is also quite heavy but handles quite well. The back needed a bit of grinding and I added a 5 degree mbevel. A very tough chisel which should stand up to a fair amount of abuse
The Bahco is a bit crude with a plastic/rubber handle which has a flat profile and a thumb indentation. Reasonably balanced and not as heavy as the 2 cherries. A bit more work needed to flatten but comes already with a microbevel which did not need much honing. Probably more of a site tool than a craftsman's - it does come with a plastic belt holster!
I gave them a bit of a performance test but not enough to to come to any conclusion on that score - they all performed well on some beech. There is also a big difference in the prices.
I have a Miyanga (New Old Stock - from Ebay) on its way and will try out an AI when I have received their catalogue.
Hope you all not asleep? :wink:

Rod
 
I seem to have sent everybody to sleep on this one and having found the test article in Fine Woodworking I will shut up.
But for those still interested CraftsmanStudio have the No.2 rated Japanese Blue Steel Matsumara on special at $295 a set.They also have the LN's at $250.
The downside is that they do not ship to the UK, but if you have friends in America ........?

Rod
 
After having read the previous posts, more noticeably the post with regards to MHG Chisels bending,etc, I am some what dismayed I have had a set of Bevel chisels and two mortise chisels made by MHG for over two years, They keep their edge and are sustainably better that the British equivalent. Whilst ONE post does point out that you should not BASH wood chisels in actually fact you can however if you intend to use a mallet upon your chisels do your self a favour buy a cheap set (screwfix have a decent one) and regrind the bevels to 30 degree's and decent woodsmith will tell you 25 degree's for hand use, 30 degree's for mallet use, if you want really fine work and control regrind to 20 degree's. however be prepared to keep resharpening as they will blunten very quickly when used on hard wood.
As for MHG chisels bending, contact your supplier or better still MHG directly, they are harden throughout the steel in theory it should break rather than bend, or better still stop using a hammer, start using a mallet a just gentle tap's or regrind to 30 degree's and use a sledge hammer. I've never had one bend, snap or blunten upon me and in fact I am try to obtain more of them.
Any offers
 
Welcome to the forum Goldeneagle. You've dragged up a post from 2007. This topic is a bit stale now. But feel free to join in with current discussions or start your own.
 
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