charnwood........? New to turning - please help.

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Hello David.
Yes it is a good book some good projects and tips.
Another i like is Richard Raffans TURNING WOOD.This has a companion video-dvd.Take a look
here
Paul.J.
 
TEP":3pvss7aw said:
. If your going into production, fine you could warrant more expense, but if only for a few it may have been better to have found someone to turn them for you.


but far more satifying to do your self!

Just received the DVDs ...gave them a quick run last night and soon started dicovering my errors!

(thanks for that Paul...I'll have a look))
 
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... :IT&ih=018

...anyone else in this position (total beginner) I found this DVD tutorial very good.

Starting to make better progress now.

There are some good pointers there, just to get you going.

Amazon delivered Keiths book in VERY quick time (+ v.good deal, thanks Paul). I might say its a very nice publication, highly informative ..........+clearly illustrated with lots of diagrams to break up the text......therefore easy to read. I have just dipped into it so far. Its going to be very useful, although its almost too nice to use!

Good recommendation.


:)



cheers for now,




David
 
I thought I'd done this once but it wasn't on the forum just now....if I HAVE repeated myself...perhats you'll bare with me.

The point of my note is to thank the helpful members who asssited me with my "audio cone"project....

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q115 ... CN0003.jpg



....coming on well.

this pic was taken before I'd tidied the neck up a bit.

Any clues on how I got those lines in the wood?

Also, perhpts some one could give me guide on how to sharpen a parting tool. I do have Keith Rowleys book....it might just put another slant on it (no pun intended)

Thanks again




:)






David
 
Davidf":1gf8keu4 said:
Any clues on how I got those lines in the wood?
David

What tool did you use?

I would suggest that if it was a bowl gouge then it is an indication of intermittent bevel contact/pressure, sometimes just cutting sometimes burnishing the just cut surface.

If you were using the parting tool then it is an indication of intermittent feed of cut, with the fibre displacement varying with speed of advancement or alignment of tool.
 
For that tapering slooping edge is was using the side of a skew chisel. Not sure if thats technically wrong (?) , I think I got the idea from my tutor DVD.



Thanks vm,






D.
 
Davidf":39osrp3b said:
For that tapering slooping edge is was using the side of a skew chisel. Not sure if thats technically wrong (?) , I think I got the idea from my tutor DVD.
Thanks vm,
D.

If you find that is the easiest way for you to get the taper you want, I would suggest you take a light finishing cut with a sharp bowl gouge making sure the bevel is firmly rubbing the cut surface, this should give you a uniform polished surface.
 
This is almost taking thoughts right out of my head.....

The dvd + book shows a tool like a long thin sharp tea spoon like design; I haven;'t put a name to it. Is that a spindle gouge...or a bowl gouge?

I did buy a spindle gouge recently , its very useful but sometimes to bulky for the gaps I need to get into.



tvm



:)




D.
 
see this link (last few pictures)for typical spindle gouge shapes.

To get into confined spaces you operate with the gouge turned on its side, presenting a narrow vertical cutting edge to the work but maintaining bevel contact with the cut surface. Be careful that the top wings of the gouge do not catch on the opposite face of your groove.
 
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