Changing varnish finish from gloss to satin (or matt)

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FrenchIan

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I should know this, having used varnish for many years, but I've always taken the lazy way out and bought tins of silk/satin or matt, as needed. But I read that satin is just gloss with additives. So, I want to use pure (gloss) varnish only, and control the final sheen myself.

I know it's done by rubbing down with eg, fine abrasive paper or steel wool (or 3M pads - I like them!). To save me making too many mistakes, can someone give me some pointers? Such as, 320 grit abrasive is too aggresive, minimum is 600 grit, or, 000 steel wool is all you need - the more you rub, the more matt it gets.

Thanks in advance
 
0000 wire wool would be my choice with either pumice or talcum powder, long strokes with the grain, and it gets shinier the more you rub it. think about T-cut on cars
 
Wire wool is fine, but I have also used a final coat of PU varnish diluted by about 40% with white spirit and applied thinly with 1000 grit wet and dry paper. 1500 grit gives more gloss, 600 less. It works well on oak where the resulting fine slurry has some grain filling effect. More trouble than wire wool but I think the effect is nicer and, of course, wire wool is usually regarded as undesiarable on oak because tiny particles of steel can react with tanins in the oak to cause black specks, although I can't really see how this could happen in practice if the wood is properly sealed with finish.

Jim
 
Yellowbelly/Yetlow, thanks for the responses

I mainly use oak but as you say, Yetloh, steel wool shouldn't be a problem by this stage.

I'm thinking that if I set to work on the top coat with white spirit and an abrasive, I should be able to produce the final finish I want. 360 grit, say, for matt, 0000 steel wool (about 800 grit) for silk and Webrax grey pad (1500 grit) for gloss.

I'll try that for starters, see how I get on.

many thanks
 

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