cellulose sanding sealer

[nev]

I rough, i turn, i sand. if I meet a stubborn bit of end grain i use sanding sealer (thinned/wiped), then i sand.
Happy days.
If i want to use spirit stain or similar however, the wood should be unsealed to begin with and the sealer applied later.

so how do i solve the stubborn grain issue without sealing the wood? :?

 

[graduate_owner]

Hi Nev,
I've read of turners using a cabinet scraper (with the lathe stopped!!) to deal with stubborn grain. Also reversing direction of rotation (careful in case the chuck unscrews - it happened to me and was seriously scary) sometimes helps. Finally you could try moistening the difficult parts to raise the grain, then trying reversing / cabinet scraper.

I have not tried these as I'm not much more than a beginner - it's just what I've read. Might be worth a try.

K

 

[Roger C]

Hi Nev after the holidays see if your local steel merchant has an old power hack saw blade for a few bob and make a scrapper. 1 Cut 3'' off after grinding the blunt teeth a little. 2 Round one short end a grind it to the same angle as a scrapper I use 45 degree. 3 Use this on cross grain and indifferent end grain only with lathe switched off. This is my 60 grit tool there after 150/180 and up. There will be no need to use sealer and you will be able to stain as you please. If you want to use a sealer after staining apply at least 3 coats and denib with 600-800 wet or dry paper clean and apply finish

 

[CHJ]

Dependant upon the density of the stain required you can mix the spirit stain with the sealer.

 

[paul johnson]

What i do is use a fine mist of water that brings the grain up and a light sanding dries it,

 

[stevenw1963]

wet the grain & use a power sander (black n decker mouse) with 80 or 100 grit sandpaper - just don't press too hard in one place

 

[EnErY]

wet the grain & use a power sander (black n decker mouse) with 80 or 100 grit sandpaper - just don't press too hard in one place

That is also The Method I have been taught By A very Competent turner And have Had good results on Heavy Stubborn end Grain
Regards
Bill

 

[henton49er]

wet the grain & use a power sander (black n decker mouse) with 80 or 100 grit sandpaper - just don't press too hard in one place

That is also The Method I have been taught By A very Competent turner And have Had good results on Heavy Stubborn end Grain
Regards
Bill

+1 for wetting the grain and gently power sanding.

 

[Richard Findley]

Hi Nev

Your method is sound and My thought is that sanding sealer is very much a surface preparation so doesn't go deep into the grain. By the time you have recut and sanded I would doubt there would be much trace of it left. You could try wiping over with clean thinners to clean the surface before adding your stain. Alternatively you could try using a different product on the difficult grain. Wax, oil, lacquer and sealer all do the same job in stiffening those dodgy fibres.

Good luck with it and let us know how you get on!

Cheers

Richard

 

[Peter Jennings]

For the difficult sanding jobs I use a soft foam rubber mandrel topped with velcro, and cut out a square of fluffy backed sandpaper (technical term) to stick on to the velcro. Doesn't need to be a circle. Suggest you use a cheapo drill to drive the mandrel, not a fancy rechargeable....I understand power sanding is not good for drill bearings...funny speeds and sideways pressure.

 

[Spindle]

Hi Nev

Does your problem stem from tear out during the turning phase? if so you should be able to minimise / eradicate it with the use of a freshly sharpened gouge and very light cuts.

Regards Mick

 

[monkeybiter]

Slightly OT but I have had success using several liberal coats of dilute [50] SS to firm up the surface of spalted material for final surfacing.

 

[nev]

Hi Nev

Does your problem stem from tear out during the turning phase? if so you should be able to minimise / eradicate it with the use of a freshly sharpened gouge and very light cuts.

Regards Mick

Moi! blunt tools :shock:

probably but i'm getting the hang of sharpening them now. But no, its usually just one or two stubborn patches on the outside edge of a bowl. the rest of the bowl i can start sanding with 240 or 320 (its progressed from starting with 80 grit )
a quick dose of sealer does the job, but wondering of alternatives for when applying the 'apply to unsealed wood' products.

 

[CHJ]

..... a quick dose of sealer does the job, but wondering of alternatives for when applying the 'apply to unsealed wood' products.

As mentioned already just plain water should do the job, if very stubborn try heating water soaked area with domestic iron to steam the wood, speeds up the grain swelling and dries out quicker.

I keep an old domestic iron in the shop for such events and also the recovery of the odd ding that mysteriously appears just as you are about to celebrate a finished item.

Max kudos from visitors bearing a damaged item as well when you pop out to the shed and come back 10mins later and they can't find the blemish from where they dropped it.