Can't cut, won't cut!

[ohms12]

... frog much further forward, smaller mouth and a sharper iron.

The problem wasn't mouth size; the iron didn't have a flat surface to sit on.

Here's a helpful cut away picture. (*)

Look at the surface the blade is sitting on.

Yeah, that makes sense. So what would be the easiest way for me to increase the mouth size if I wanted to make bigger cuts? Would I have to move the frog back - or is there something i've missed..?

The reason for the top part being out is because the previous bevel was so out! I'm using a draper honing guide I got with some chisels - it's probably not the greatest in the world, but it does the job.

A google only shows one design of guide by Draper, and it's the old, and excellent, side clamping Eclipse style. It's a good guide.

You may find this helpful:

post308586.html?hilit=%20minimising%20labour%20#p308586

BugBear

Thats the one - old eclipse style. I saw a post about making a board with a couple of angles on it elsewhere - i'm guessing that's what i'll be doing tonight then! Thanks for all the help mate.

 

[bugbear]

Yeah, that makes sense. So what would be the easiest way for me to increase the mouth size if I wanted to make bigger cuts? Would I have to move the frog back - or is there something i've missed..?

When the frog and sole are co-planer (per the diagram), that's as big as the mouth can go.

Trust me - you're almost certainly not strong enough to cut a shaving that won't go through such a mouth!

BugBear

 

[ohms12]

Haha, fair enough!

So I finally got a new iron, its a Quansgeng number (my spelling is no doubt way off), but it's much thicker than my standard Stanley iron. If I want it to fit correctly, can I move the frog back or do I need to widen the mouth...?

 

[bugbear]

Haha, fair enough!

So I finally got a new iron, its a Quansgeng number (my spelling is no doubt way off), but it's much thicker than my standard Stanley iron. If I want it to fit correctly, can I move the frog back or do I need to widen the mouth...?

If you've followed the advice given, your frog is already as far back as it will go, so moving it back is not an option. Fortunately, from my knowledge of the Quansgeng blades, the resulting mouth should be perfectly usable without (irreversible!) filing.

Did you use your straightedge to check the old iron for twist?

BugBear

 

[Jacob]

Haha, fair enough!

So I finally got a new iron, its a Quansgeng number (my spelling is no doubt way off), but it's much thicker than my standard Stanley iron. If I want it to fit correctly, can I move the frog back or do I need to widen the mouth...?

I really wouldn't bother with alternative blades until you have got the plane working well and, ideally, actually need a new blade. You are just giving yourself another problem. You might be lucky and find performance improved - but it won't be due to the blade, it'll be down to just the repeated practice you are getting.

 

[ohms12]

Bugbear, yeah I did. There's a definite twist there. I'll try again, but the new blade, being much thicker, is protruding right out to the edge of the mouth, leaving no gap at all.

Haha, fair enough!

So I finally got a new iron, its a Quansgeng number (my spelling is no doubt way off), but it's much thicker than my standard Stanley iron. If I want it to fit correctly, can I move the frog back or do I need to widen the mouth...?

I really wouldn't bother with alternative blades until you have got the plane working well and, ideally, actually need a new blade. You are just giving yourself another problem. You might be lucky and find performance improved - but it won't be due to the blade, it'll be down to just the repeated practice you are getting.

Ehh, okay. If you had read the posts above you'd notice that'd i do have the plane working just fine, but I have a warped blade I cannot fix. I wouldn't say I'm giving myself another problem, in trying to fix one that cannot be done any other way. How would you suggest I fix a warped blade?

 

[Jacob]

Bugbear, yeah I did. There's a definite twist there. I'll try again, but the new blade, being much thicker, is protruding right out to the edge of the mouth, leaving no gap at all.

Haha, fair enough!

So I finally got a new iron, its a Quansgeng number (my spelling is no doubt way off), but it's much thicker than my standard Stanley iron. If I want it to fit correctly, can I move the frog back or do I need to widen the mouth...?

I really wouldn't bother with alternative blades until you have got the plane working well and, ideally, actually need a new blade. You are just giving yourself another problem. You might be lucky and find performance improved - but it won't be due to the blade, it'll be down to just the repeated practice you are getting.

Ehh, okay. If you had read the posts above you'd notice that'd i do have the plane working just fine, but I have a warped blade I cannot fix. I wouldn't say I'm giving myself another problem, in trying to fix one that cannot be done any other way. How would you suggest I fix a warped blade?

Probably best fixed by tightening the cap screw a bit more. Thin blades are very adaptable.
But is it warped anyway? You say it shows up in the sharpening but can you actually see an obvious twist? A bit of a bend won't matter.

By the time you've polished, flattened, replaced blades and other bits, etc. etc. you have a different plane from the one you started with, and if you don't know what you are doing you may have a worse plane. I would have stuck with it as it was and concentrated on getting it working with the minimum of alteration

 

[Trafalgar]

Bugbear, yeah I did. There's a definite twist there. I'll try again, but the new blade, being much thicker, is protruding right out to the edge of the mouth, leaving no gap at all.

Haha, fair enough!

So I finally got a new iron, its a Quansgeng number (my spelling is no doubt way off), but it's much thicker than my standard Stanley iron. If I want it to fit correctly, can I move the frog back or do I need to widen the mouth...?

I really wouldn't bother with alternative blades until you have got the plane working well and, ideally, actually need a new blade. You are just giving yourself another problem. You might be lucky and find performance improved - but it won't be due to the blade, it'll be down to just the repeated practice you are getting.

Ehh, okay. If you had read the posts above you'd notice that'd i do have the plane working just fine, but I have a warped blade I cannot fix. I wouldn't say I'm giving myself another problem, in trying to fix one that cannot be done any other way. How would you suggest I fix a warped blade?

Cutters are disposable tooling. One expects to wear a few out over the years. I would not hesitate to replace a cutter bent or warped enough to cause problems. It's like buying a new bottle of glue when an old one runs out. It's just something you do. And without hesitation. Don't let a nickel hold up a dime (or the nearest British equivalents).

That said, you mentioned the plane is working fine so no need to peer any deeper into the horse's mouth. Just use it.

 

[bugbear]

Bugbear, yeah I did. There's a definite twist there. I'll try again, but the new blade, being much thicker, is protruding right out to the edge of the mouth, leaving no gap at all.

With the frog fully back, I'd be very surprised at that; don't forget, you only need a gap big enough for your shaving, and for a smoother, your shavings will be under 1/100".

I suggest double checking the frog is fully back (i.e. coplaner with the sloped section of sole), and run the depth adjuster back a fair bit.

Then put the blade assembly in place. Now increase the depth very gradually until cutting takes place. Do this carefully and slowly, checking as you go, because if you really DON'T have a gap, the blade will (in fact) be run into the front of the sole (and cutting won't be possible).

If the blade actually touches the front of the mouth, we can have a chat about filing, but please do check.

BugBear